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 Post subject: a trailer for my locost
PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 3:49 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
Posts: 2019
Location: meadview arizona
due to me wanting to move to the center of the known universe, i need another trailer just for my locost.

things to consider:-
1. single axle or double axle
a double axle is twice as expensive as a single axle.

2. do i need brakes
more expence

3. tilt or no tilt
tilt is easier to load

4 big wheels or small wheels
small wheels = low c of g

so here's my plan folks:=

single axle small wheels with tilt bed, tire size and load carrying capacity of tires.

i have some wheels, 13"dia four stud and trailer tires capable of carrying 1700 lbs each.
i also have an axle and springs but no brakes that the wheels fit onto, this means i can have a gross weight of 3400 lbs
so can i legally use a trailer on the road with a gross weight of 3400 lbs. without brakes?

my locost is a heavy weight at 1990 lbs can i build a trailer that weighs less than 1400 lbs with a tilt bed?
it would need a bed 6" wide and 14" long to accommodate my car, with 50-50 weight distribution will it tilt?
my wheel base is 8' so would i need 8' distance between the axle center line and the tail of the tilt bed so that when the front wheels pass the center line and the rear wheels are still on the ground, it doesn't tilt back up?
i have looked at loads of tilt trailers on the tube and they all show front heavy vehicles being loaded or have very long or heavy or long and heavy rear ends to the bed?

if i move the tilting draw bar pivot forward so that it is 8' from the rear of the trailer will that work?






























































;-

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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 4:01 pm 
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Joined: April 17, 2009, 1:28 am
Posts: 123
Location: San Tan Valley, Arizona
John,
The answer to question #1 ... brakes required for trailers w/ gross wt > 3000 lb in AZ. (https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjrlK2_3NLWAhUP72MKHbSZAHEQFgg-MAQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fdrivinglaws.aaa.com%2Ftag%2Ftrailer-brakes%2F&usg=AOvVaw2OOU45rPlWHd9cg_V3v7SD )


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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 4:08 pm 
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Joined: April 12, 2012, 11:56 am
Posts: 597
Location: Pemberton, BC
Don't know about the rules you may need to adhere to, but I would build it light and simple. It doesn't get simpler than mine. Check the last page of my build log for some pics.

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My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 4:12 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2009, 9:36 pm
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Location: meadview arizona
o.k. that means "can i build a single axle tilt trailer weighing less than 1000 lbs"

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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 4:40 pm 
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Joined: April 12, 2012, 11:56 am
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Location: Pemberton, BC
I haven't weighed it, but I quite sure it's below that.

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My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140


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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 4:53 pm 
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Joined: April 5, 2008, 2:25 am
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
Torsion axles allow you to make the trailer lower therefore less tilting needed.

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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 4:53 pm 
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Joined: December 7, 2012, 8:28 am
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Location: Sarasota
My trailer weight 700lbs and has 16" wheels and is made of heave steel tubing. With a little effort you could make a sturdy trailer that weights around 500lbs and can carry your locost comfortably.

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PostPosted: October 4, 2017, 12:37 am 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
My locost and the trailer is about 1825 lbs, and the trailer is about 500lbs of that. I built a little tilt deck unit with torsion flex axles and a tilt deck for easier loading. The only pivot point is the tongue where it attaches to the frame, so the whole trailer tilts on the axles. I built it so the weight of the car tips the deck up, and I only have to pull a pin at the front and back up the car to tip it down. It took longer to type that than it does to actually load or unload the car. The side rails are 1.5x2.5" tube, the crossovers are 1x2", and the tongue is 2x3", all .125" wall. If I were to do it again I'd probably got 2x3" or 2x4" tube for the main side rails. The pivot is a 3/4" bolt with a lock nut.
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The sag in the deck in this side shot is because of how I notched the frame for the torsion flex axles and welded it back together, not the weight of the car. I should probably straighten it out some day.
Kristian

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PostPosted: November 3, 2017, 10:25 pm 
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Always Moore!
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Joined: November 9, 2007, 3:40 pm
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Location: Fort Worth, TX
The answer to your brake question is also going to depend on what you're towing it with.

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PostPosted: November 4, 2017, 1:12 am 
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In most jurisdictions the GVW of a trailer does not have to be equal to the total load capacity of the tires....it can be less. In your case the tires and axle might be capable of carrying 3400 lbs but you should be able to declare a GVW of 2950 lbs "because that's what the frame will hold" and avoid the need to have brakes. Then drive sensibly. Lots of trailers heavier than 3000 lbs have been towed successfully millions of miles "in the old days" before trailer brakes even existed.....I know I did.

Who was it built the slick, light weight trailer that was cantilevered and laid flat on the ground?

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