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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 8, 2019, 9:02 pm 
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Yo, Perry-
I have been looking at Karen's posts on FB about that snow. Wow! 3 inches of snow... IN JUNE!?!?!? That is too weird for me to contemplate! Hope y'all didn't lose too many branches/trees... And I hope you kept your pants on throughout the snow storm... Just sayin... :mrgreen:
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: June 9, 2019, 12:02 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
GonzoRacer wrote:
And I hope you kept your pants on throughout the snow storm... Just sayin...

yeah, well that didn't happen :roll:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: June 9, 2019, 12:01 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
So, adapting an old saying for Alberta:

When life give you snow, make snow cones . . . . and sell them in Palm Springs - temp 93F as I write.

So, can I call you "Frosty" now? :mrgreen:

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 9, 2019, 1:10 pm 
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horchoha wrote:
GonzoRacer wrote:
And I hope you kept your pants on throughout the snow storm... Just sayin...

yeah, well that didn't happen :roll:
Unfortunately for my eyesight, I happen to know that's true... :ack:

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: June 15, 2019, 9:41 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
GonzoRacer wrote:
Unfortunately for my eyesight, I happen to know that's true...

Don't make me blush JD
So this week I received ~30 yards 3/4 crush.
Attachment:
File comment: 30 yards gravel
IMG_4932.JPG
IMG_4932.JPG [ 178.56 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

I wanted to make a pad for the motorhome. I had some home made sidewalk blocks I made 15 or so years ago, 20" x 30" x 4" thick. Measured placement and countersunk them into the sod. Sprayed roundup a few days ago to kill the grass (so I don't have to mow).
Attachment:
File comment: Grass sprayed for motorhome pad
IMG_4933.JPG
IMG_4933.JPG [ 151.9 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

Put down landscape fabric. Grabbed the shovel a wheel barrow, placed down some gravel.
Attachment:
File comment: Landscape fabric and gravel
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IMG_4934.JPG [ 150.29 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

Took out the landscape roller and rolled it.
Attachment:
File comment: Rolled gravel
IMG_4940.JPG
IMG_4940.JPG [ 150.03 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

Test fit the motorhome.
Attachment:
File comment: Motorhome on pad
IMG_4945.JPG
IMG_4945.JPG [ 123.21 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

Then grabbed the spade and wheel barrow, spread some gravel, then rolled the yard twice.
Attachment:
File comment: Yard gravelled and rolled 1
IMG_4943.JPG
IMG_4943.JPG [ 188.1 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

Attachment:
File comment: Yard gravelled and rolled 2
IMG_4944.JPG
IMG_4944.JPG [ 179.32 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

Attachment:
IMG_4942.JPG
IMG_4942.JPG [ 162.4 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]

Actually I used my CAT 252 skid steer, much faster and easier on the muscles than a spade and wheel barrow.https://youtu.be/S5PZpqN_LE4

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: June 19, 2019, 9:09 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
My old truck decided to spit out an idler pulley on the way to work last night. Wouldn't normally be too big a deal, but my commute is an 11 hour drive, and I just happened to be in the middle of about a 160 km dead spot for cell service. Luckily I had my sort of street legal dirtbike in the back of the truck, so I unloaded it and rode 100km to the next town. Stayed in a cheap motel and called a tow truck this morning. The guy was awesome and went to get my truck by himself, so I could round up parts and get things figured. Took me half an hour to get it going again once it was dropped off. The stupid thing is, it's a 2001 F-350 with a 7.3 diesel. If you've worked on one much you've probably noticed that the upper rad hose goes through the serpentine belt and needs to be removed at one end to change the belt. Good design for sure. I had ordered new rad hoses and a serpentine belt to fix this, and had the parts in the truck to do it after work one day, so that was kind of lucky. I wish I'd had a jacket though, it gets cold in the mountains at night, even in the summer.
Kristian

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viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172


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PostPosted: July 1, 2019, 1:21 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
Just reminiscing with wifey about the seventies. I had long hair down to my belt, and tight pants, and 3" side zipper boots. Good times, reminded me of the song Jim Dandy, and look how we turned out 45 some years later.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DJXM-ssg2Hg

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: July 14, 2019, 12:05 pm 
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It has been a week or more of mower repairs. 1st, the old Cub Cadet LT1042 mower wouldn't start. Cannot even turn over the engine. I thought it had to do with ignition timing so I checked the spark. None to speak of. Changed the plug and still nothing. Even with the plug out and the engine turning I noticed little spark if any. I suspected that it was the coil. There is no way to verify that other than to replace it, so I ordered a new one. In the mean time I figured I'd check the compression as it is now 14 yrs old. No can do. It has an Automatic Compression Release built into the engine. Any numbers found are meaningless. Standard practices cannot be applied to this engine. I searched about it and found that the ACR system has some known problems. If the compression release doesn't work, then the starter hasn't enough OOMPH to turn the engine over. Sounds familiar. One problem involves tearing deep inside the engine. One other common problem could be the exhaust valve guide can float free thus holding the valve open (or something like that) . The fix for that is to relocate the guide and then peen the metal around it to hold it in place. Sounded easy enough to check out, So I went to see about that. Pulled the valve cover and found the guide in good nick. I did find the rocker arm post was loose. I added some blue Loctite and tightened it back down. Now the engine turns over. Weeeee. And it even starts up! With the added lift now in the exhaust valve, the ACR is now working as designed. And the engine turns over with ease. The no-spark appears to be a ruse and was probably related to the engine not turning over fast enough, if at all. While doing all this work, I also found that the top cover of the crankcase under the flywheel (it is built upside down. WTF?) had some loose bolts, another common problem with this engine. Seems that the 19hp single lung engine vibrates so much that the front 5 or 6 bolts loosen over time. I cleaned it all up, added Blue Loctite to the bolts and tightened them up. That should fix it!

So now it is time to close everything up. The valve cover has always been a troublesome to seal. I have done this job many times in the past. I made a new gasket, added Black RTV and ran it for a few minutes. Everything looked good. So I called it a day and closed up shop for the day. Next day there was oil on the floor under the front of the engine. Must be that damned valve cover! Made another gasket and this time used Ultimate Grey sealer. This stuff worked the last time I sealed this up. Let it sit overnight before retightening the cover bolts. Added some oil and mowed the lawn. When done, I checked things over and the oil level was a down a bit and there was more oil under the mower. Gave the old girl a good power wash and in that process found that the starter motor Bendix is not fully retracting. I tried oiling the shaft to free it up and got so much oil on the friction plate that it just spin and no longer turned the engine over. I R&R'd the starter motor. Bendix is now free to return and now the engine starts.

That is when I found I have a cracked block! I believe that the 19hp single lung engine vibrates so much that it loosens the crankcase bolts, this allowed the cylinder itself to move and stress the crankcase. Another VERY COMMON problem with this engine that wasn't there last week.

I now have choices to make. Do I try to weld the crankcase and see what happens, or replace the short block at ~$550, replace the engine at ~$700? Any of those options would still leave me with an engine with known design issues on a 14 yr old mower. Or I could cut my losses and buy a new sit down mower.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE


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PostPosted: July 15, 2019, 12:13 am 
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Location: No. Nevada
Decided that since I am selling the '90 Chevy PU with it's horrid leper looking paint (Water based that failed in the second year) it would be a good chance get some bodywork practice in.
I did show cars/magazine cover cars decades ago and have several paint jobs coming up.
But it's been as few decades, so practice is good.
Amazing how much better even spray-can primer can look compared to paint that is falling off down to the base metal.
Quickly determined that the only way to repair this paint properly would be to strip it ALL to bare metal.
Yah, a $1,200 paint job for an $800 truck. :roll:
So some sanding of the worst area's and spray-can primer it is.
Next owner can have it painted, or buy a few more spray cans. :wink:

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PostPosted: July 15, 2019, 12:36 am 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
rx7locost wrote:
Do I try to weld the crankcase and see what happens

What's the cost to do that compared to your other options?

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O.
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build, The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered


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PostPosted: July 15, 2019, 3:51 am 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
I once had an F100 the previous owner had painted blue with a bunch of spray cans.

He'd sanded and primed beforehand and built a paint booth out of sheet plastic, sprayed, and then used a buffer to clear up the overspray stripes. It wasn't a great paint job, but it was good enough.

Over the next ten years the underlying beige started to show through in spots; the spray can job wasn't very thick. But I've seen OEM paint jobs flake off before that.

There was a fad 15 years or so ago for painting cars with a roller. They had to have the right nap and the paint had to be thinned out a lot. The videos looked good, but I never saw one of those jobs in person.


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PostPosted: July 15, 2019, 7:19 am 
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horchoha wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
Do I try to weld the crankcase and see what happens

What's the cost to do that compared to your other options?

Quote:
Or I could cut my losses and buy a new sit down mower.

Around here, you could buy a decent used mower for the prices you're talking about ($550 to $700). I don't think I paid but about $350 for the one I've been using for the last two years. It's not pretty but it cuts the grass. YMMV...

:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 15, 2019, 8:14 am 
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horchoha wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
Do I try to weld the crankcase and see what happens

What's the cost to do that compared to your other options?
not so much the cost, but the time invested and I'm afraid it possibly may last only a few mows. Then I'd be back in the same predicament.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE


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PostPosted: July 21, 2019, 2:55 am 
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Location: No. Nevada
Was GIVEN a Land-Rover 101 Forward Control 4x4!
Yes it runs, been sitting and needs some TLC, also RHD, and the only condition is that I can never sell it which is a good thing as that means I will get to keep it forever. :D
I've wanted one for DECADES, better than the new 'Vette for me!
Now I need to get my tow vehicle into shape ASAP for the 400/800 Mi. trip to bring it home.
Once here I will use the Rover as my daily local driver instead of the '90 Chevy PU I will now be getting rid of.
Still need to get something finished for longer trips or commuting as the Rover is not fast, it's GUN TRACTOR* after all. :lol:
Going to be an awesome camper-mobile/hunting rig.

Nope, no Rapier missile set included. :(
But it does have a military band radio set, hand-crank, and Pioneer tools!

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PostPosted: July 21, 2019, 8:20 am 
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Joined: March 3, 2006, 10:48 pm
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Location: Shawnee, Ks
Had to look it up to see what it was. That looks like a fun vehicle as long as you have a place to REALLY drive it the way it was made to be driven. Russ

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