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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 16, 2019, 10:49 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Got to put my feet into the Arctic Ocean near Prudhoe Bay.


Chuck, What was the water temp?

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PostPosted: August 16, 2019, 11:11 pm 
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BHRmotorsport wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
Got to put my feet into the Arctic Ocean near Prudhoe Bay.


Chuck, What was the water temp?


Water was 37 degrees. PDC if you ask me. But what do I know? I haven't in that cold a water since I was in HS and water-ski'd, 2weeks after the ice went out.

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PostPosted: August 18, 2019, 2:46 am 
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Location: No. Nevada
Got a big reminder of why I would rather build a car than restore one!

Trying to remove the clutch MC on the Rover 101.
You would think that a military vehicle would be made easy to work on, as it might have to be repaired under fire or something.
Not the case, I will have to destroy a wrench or take apart the whole brake pedal assembly.
A single captive bolt would have made a world of difference.

On my Dio-Tipo's I'm making certain that they are very easy to work on.
Dzus fasteners for the body, and all the captive fasteners I want.

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PostPosted: August 18, 2019, 6:05 pm 
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Sounds like a plan for success, Richard! :cheers:

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PostPosted: August 19, 2019, 11:29 am 
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I had to Google Images "captive fasteners", Richard. There were lots of different types. Do you have a photo to share of what you want to use?

I too, want removable bodywork. I liked Martin's approach. What's been on my mind is doing the part that connects to the undertray. My undertray is welded 16 gauge steel sheet, and I don't want to drill a lot of holes through it and/or the lower chassis rails. Last night an idea hit me. It's immature at the moment, but I think it could be developed into something workable.

You know those super strong little magnets they use in everything these days? Well why not use those along with a soft rubber gasket to seal the bottom edge on the undertray? I don't know of there's such a thing as strips of that magnetic material, but that would be ideal. Run a strip of super magnet material epoxy glued to the bend in the ally bodywork with soft rubber gasket between it and the undertray.

I think a person would have to experiment a little, but it could work. Obviously, you fix the sides of the panels to the chassis with fasteners.

What do you think of that?

Cheers,

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PostPosted: September 8, 2019, 3:21 pm 
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Two days ago, while Dorian threatened the folks in the SE but before our NW fall rains hit, we took a drive into the mountains to enjoy the scenery. In this case it was to Artist Point, cradled between Mt. Baker (10,781) and Mt. Shuksan (9,127’) about 11 miles as the eagle flies south of Washington State’s border with British Columbia. After climbing from near sea level to 5140’ up a switchback mountain road we came across this lot in the parking area:
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Seems there was an outing by a dozen or so immaculate MG, TR, etc. types on a day trip from BC. Including this lovely Jensen.
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After enjoying the surprise show’n’shine, we hiked a bit and took in the mountains flanking the view point.
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And then watched the cars make their way down the mountain. You can just make out the Jenson exiting the first switchback before the short “straight” that leads to the more serious curves. They sounded good, even from way down there.
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Alas, we were in our DD, managing massive understeer on the tight, 10 mph cutbacks. But a beautiful fall day in the mountains. :D

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
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PostPosted: September 8, 2019, 4:16 pm 
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WOW! Don't think I've ever seen a Jensen coupe before.

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PostPosted: September 8, 2019, 8:57 pm 
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After Dorian left the South East it made its way to Nova Scotia, so we sat inside yesterday while it rained and blew ... but it was relatively uneventful apart from finally remembering to watch my barometer during a hurricane. But my after dinner nap meant I actually missed the lowest of the low - but 28.1 inches Hg ain't bad (953 mb for the modern). Unlike 80% of customers in Nova Scotia we didn't lose power. We hid all our garden furniture and potted plants so there was no opportunity for damage there. Just an apocalyptic quantity of windfall apples. But wifey discovered a trick: rake them into piles or windrows and scoop them up with those 'bear paw' leaf picker-uppers.


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PostPosted: September 22, 2019, 7:44 pm 
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2 days ago I picked up a used 2 stage snowblower. It was not running of course and was missing some necessary things like a carb and a coil. :BH: It is in pretty good shape and parts for the engine are fairly inexpensive. Seller said he had someone come to service it. He took the carb to rebuild and was going to test the coil. Never heard from him again and lost all contact. It sounded plausible. I figured only about 30-40 bucks of parts to get her running, so I bought it. That is until yesterday when I got into things. I noticed that the flywheel side of the crank had about 3/32-1/8" radial slop in the main bushing (cast aluminum block serves as the bushing). I spent a few hours looking to find if it can be a DIY repair. Not without a machine shop to insert and ream a new bronze bushings. After spending too much energy on trying to Rube Goldberg my lawn tractor's cracked block earlier this year, I decided to look for a running engine.

The engine is a 5hp Tecumseh. One would think that it shouldn't be too hard to find a used one in running condition. Many snow blowers used Tecumseh engines. However, this particular version has a separate PTO shaft in addition to the main crank shaft. One powers the wheels, the other powers the auger. These are not all that common. Furthermore, looking at used blowers and such, you don't know if it has the 2 output shafts or one just by looking. One needs to research by model & serial number of the blower or the engine. Yeah right!

I looked at Craigslist this afternoon and found another blower that just might have that engine. It was posted only a few hours earlier. Not too far from here. Same brand blower, just 1 model earlier. So I hooked up the trailer and went over to look. I bought it on the spot. $40. It doesn't run (yet) but it did fire over with some gas poured into the cylinder. Electric start works fine. I figure all it needs a carb cleaning. More importantly, it has the 2 output shafts. Maybe tomorrow it'll be running. Then I'll have to decide if I should keep the newer, nicer blower chassis and swap engines, or just cut my losses and get this older, crustier one running.


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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

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PostPosted: September 22, 2019, 8:34 pm 
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My inclination would be to follow the path of least resistance. However how tough is the engine swap? Is the newer model in decent shape (except for the engine)?

You paid your mney now you gotta take your choice. Good luck!

Cheers!

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