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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently February 19, 2019, 4:55 pm

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PostPosted: January 31, 2019, 10:00 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Nice solution. I've seen an example or two of aluminum pieces done with cove molding bits on the edges, but I've not seen a work piece example as sophisticated as your done with woodworking tool before. Good going.

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: February 6, 2019, 1:14 am 
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More router success! I realized that I couldn't even rough saw out each upright because my band saw doesn't have enough throat clearance, so I set up the whole plate and rough cut them out with a 1/4" cutter. That went so well I decided to do the whole thing.

Cut time is about 2 hours per side, half of which is my silly 3D filleting.

It needs just a little coolant spray (water and a few drops of Dawn) every 5 seconds or so while roughing and less when finishing. I think I can get a hobby servo to do that part for me.

The outside and center will be removed during the back side operation. Then it's just a matter of drilling and tapping some holes in the ends. The three center holes are tapped right now to hold the part, but will get drilled out for the 12mm bolts for the hub.


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PostPosted: February 6, 2019, 12:06 pm 
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Location: Duxbury, MA USA
Really nice. I could not do better on my Shopmaster CNC mill.
Paul

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PostPosted: February 9, 2019, 6:01 am 
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One of my key components is coming together. I freaked for a second when the caliper hit the rim, then I realized I don't have the brake hat in there yet, whew! Hopefully that stuff will come in soon, like tomorrow soon.

Oh, my CNC router isn't quite all that, the center hole is out of round maybe 2-3 thou. It's kind of a slanted ellipse, probably X and Y aren't quite square.


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PostPosted: February 9, 2019, 7:38 am 
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Very nice! I imagine you had to sit for hours spraying every few seconds for the part to be produced. A plastic bin, small 110v aquarium pump and hose clip on the drill head would fix that. Need a way to prevent chips from entering the pump.Add a rust preventative to the dish liquid. Most of these little pumps have a knob for adjusting output at the pump and the volume is very low with low pressure (just a trickle) so you should not need splash screens.

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PostPosted: February 9, 2019, 2:51 pm 
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I squirted it by hand on the first one, now I'm getting my system down! An old Basic Stamp and a servo works good. It takes just about the whole bottle for one side. I do intervene a bit while roughing with another squirt bottle. But it lets me do other little stuff around the shop while my shop bitc.....er...shop bot does it's thing. I've got a shallow tray for the drippings as the CNC is mostly wood! Ha.

I think my next project will be a medium sized (24x24x24) CNC built out of steel.

I might have an old aquarium pump around, good call.


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PostPosted: February 13, 2019, 2:54 am 
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Ooh, it fits and spins now! Caliper bracket looks a bit flimsy, maybe I'll remake it beefier.


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PostPosted: February 14, 2019, 6:11 am 
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And the comically oversized lower kingpin bolt goes in. When they find the burnt up mangled wreckage at the bottom of a ravine, this bolt will be completely undamaged. Although the spherical bearing is mounted cantilever, so the bolt is probably only 2 times bigger than it needs to be.


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PostPosted: February 14, 2019, 7:55 am 
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I use a Noga Minicool spray mist on my milling machine and lathe. Works great and is easy to move around (mag base). Adjustable air/mist to minimize mess. About $90 on amazon.


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PostPosted: February 18, 2019, 1:14 am 
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It's super rattley right now without suspension bushings, but it seems like the parts are fitting and working as expected. This is the front left. Depending on how you assemble the upright, steering plate and caliper bracket allow the parts to work on any corner.

I need to finish the steering plates and make some height adjustment "washer/spacer" thingies for the upper and lower pivots.

What's up with the black coating on the wilwood rotor? Am I supposed to take that off before using the brakes?


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