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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 8, 2019, 8:03 am 
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Joined: October 19, 2010, 11:57 am
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Location: Waterloo, WI
Looking great! :cheers:

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PostPosted: May 18, 2019, 3:28 am 
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Diff cage is basically done, need to cover up a few tube ends. I must be really bad at fixturing for welding cause it took 3 tries to get the top arm and the lower arm connected with the 2 vertical braces without it moving all over.

I had the diff cage mounted to the engine (12mm bolts just sitting in clearance hole on the engine and the diff mounted to the cage tightly. Then I clamped and tacked the vertical braces in. The first time I swear it moved an 1/8" or more after I finished the welds.

But third time was the charm (well, not charm really, more like f-it close enough!)


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PostPosted: May 19, 2019, 6:07 am 
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Yeah, I can see how that would move on you while welding. Needs a 4 point jig to hold it.

I suggest using motorcycle type chain adjusters. They are jambed after adjusting so even if the clamp is lost at the bolts, the tension doesn't immediately go away. I think they will be important to have considering your threaded into aluminum. 3/16 strip double hole washer with flanges/boxed edge, 3/8x3 bolts and nuts to jamb and adjust, blind nut plates on the cage.

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PostPosted: May 19, 2019, 3:17 pm 
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Yeah, I was thinking something more than what I've got on there, like a screw stop would be nice.

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PostPosted: May 20, 2019, 4:31 am 
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I thought while I was having welding success, I'd try to plug some of the holes in the diff. I'm not sure what the diff case is, I'd guess cast steel, but it worked pretty good. There was a bit of sputtering and smoke and it seemed like I could only weld about 3/8" long until I felt like I should stop and clean it with a brush.

I assume those four ends were open to allow some oil circulation where the screws are sliding when "diffing". I think that would be a good place to put some grease zerks. There are two more holes like these on the other end.

But then there are the two big openings in the middle of it. One is needed for access to remove a central spacer thingie so the whole diff can be dissasembled. The one opposite, I'm not sure, maybe to balance out the needed opening. Not quite sure how I'm going to seal those since the needed one is, well, needed. I guess I could make a bolt on cover for it. The BEC book guy suggest a cooking pot, NOT!


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diff_hole_filling_02.png
diff_hole_filling_02.png [ 1.23 MiB | Viewed 80 times ]

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