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PostPosted: July 28, 2010, 10:22 am 
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What's all this talk about needing to make the engine dry-sumped? Is it because of the configuration being different versus being mounted in a motorcycle? I apologize if it's obvious as I've been lurking for a few weeks and I plan to build my own car in a couple years - just doing research as of now.

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PostPosted: July 28, 2010, 2:47 pm 
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foxk56 wrote:
What's all this talk about needing to make the engine dry-sumped? Is it because of the configuration being different versus being mounted in a motorcycle? I apologize if it's obvious as I've been lurking for a few weeks and I plan to build my own car in a couple years - just doing research as of now.



I'm guessing your research didn't include reading this here thread you just replied to? :P J/K man, but I thought it explained it pretty decent. Not all engines seem to need to be dry sumped in a car, but some have a history of dying young when they aren't. It has to do with the fact that in a bike the engine doesn't see much in terms of lateral Gs as designed for a bike since they need to be balanced to stay upright. In car obviously that's a different story. :wink:

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PostPosted: July 28, 2010, 3:02 pm 
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Yeah I figured it out from some other threads on here. I've got to assume that this problem would not be as severe when you mount the engine longitudinally (crankshaft parallel with the length of the car) because the oil pan is wider than it is long? Maybe I'm off-base, I'm a couple years off an A LOT of research from starting my build.

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PostPosted: July 28, 2010, 3:28 pm 
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So in that case you might have oiling failures whenever you use the brakes hard. The basic problem Chet mentions is that cars see g's in two directions, but bikes only in one direction.

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PostPosted: July 28, 2010, 5:38 pm 
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horizenjob wrote:
So in that case you might have oiling failures whenever you use the brakes hard. The basic problem Chet mentions is that cars see g's in two directions, but bikes only in one direction.


Good point :oops: . Well right now I'm hoping to use an FZ1 motor and from what I read, those should be OK without any counteractive dry sump or baffling measures.

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PostPosted: July 28, 2010, 8:47 pm 
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The fz1 and r1 are basically the same,I'm using an r1 and went with an affordable baffle plate for added peace of mind.


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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 1:01 am 
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Baffle plates are cheap.

Moti

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PostPosted: July 31, 2010, 8:23 pm 
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Blackbird wrote:
Baffle plates are cheap.

Is that simply a statement about how much they cost, or are you implying something about the quality of baffle plates versus dry sumping? (So hard to read what someone really means without hearing the intonation in their voice, seeing their face... damned Internet!) :wink:

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PostPosted: August 3, 2010, 1:51 am 
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Sorry, sometimes things that seem obvious to the poster aren't as obvious to the readers :wink: ...

Baffle plates are a very cheap form of insurance, and while they can't be compared with the level of protection that a dry sump system will provide, they only cost a fraction of a dry sump system and are effective enough that on some bike motors you don't really need anything else.

Moti

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PostPosted: August 3, 2010, 11:38 am 
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Add an oil pressure gauge to that list. Typical OE pressure sensors for dummy lights only come on when the pressure is extremely low. If you are a little above that threshold, it will not light but you will still be doing engine damage.

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PostPosted: August 3, 2010, 9:00 pm 
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Thanks for clarifying Moti. And an oil gauge sounds like a good idea too - thanks Andrew.

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PostPosted: October 1, 2010, 1:10 pm 
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Another new engine donor to keep your eyes open for: the 2011 Kawasaki ZX-10R .. 207 HP!

Preview link: http://hellforleathermagazine.com/2010/10/207-hp-full-details-on-the-2011-kawasaki-zx-10r/

If things continue as they have been, plan on paying about 2x what a comparable R1 engine runs. The Kawi engine is the preferred starting point for SCCA CSR engine builders.

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PostPosted: March 15, 2014, 10:44 pm 
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Hoping for an update! The N600 (?) sedan with a Honda v4 (800cc?) makes me wonder if the bigger v4 (1300& 1400 cc) would go well in an L7 chassis. I know there is no reverse on any of these, but I don't see insurmountable problems w/ converted starter motor, etc.
I see this thread has been active inthe past , but not much lately- I'll check back every time I come lurking! :twisted: Chris :cheers:


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PostPosted: March 30, 2014, 1:12 pm 
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Talking V4's, has anyone ever considered the Yamaha VMax engine? 1700cc, 200hp and about 200lbs (from what I was bale to find over the Internet, but not confirmed). Besides the Yamaha, there's also the Honda ST1300 V4, but much lower HP rating (around 115) and the weight is almost equal to the VMax (around 90kg). Both come with a built-in gerabox and a shaft drive, that combined with a front 4x4 axle on the rear makes for an easy locost installation, although the Honda seems unnecessarily high engine. Any info on those being used in Locosts before?

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PostPosted: April 3, 2014, 5:46 pm 
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mysmallwheels wrote:
Hoping for an update! The N600 (?) sedan with a Honda v4 (800cc?) makes me wonder if the bigger v4 (1300& 1400 cc) would go well in an L7 chassis. I know there is no reverse on any of these, but I don't see insurmountable problems w/ converted starter motor, etc.
I see this thread has been active inthe past , but not much lately- I'll check back every time I come lurking! :twisted: Chris :cheers:


I'm the guy with the Honda V4 (VFR800) in my clown car N600.. I can speak to that particular engine.. this specific engine is well packaged for my build's tiny/shallow front-to-rear engine bay.. It's not a monster on the dyno, but in the real world works quite well for my 1400# car (with 2.73 rear end)- Far more power than my short wheelbase car needs for sure :lol: -I'm to the point of dealing with no reverse, but as you stated, very manageable..

-having said that, there's another cool V4 Honda I wish I could make to fit.. It's the "new" Honda VFR1200 (maybe 2012/2013??)... most attractive to me is the dual clutch transmission that can be put in 'automatic' mode should you choose (or left as a standard -OR- used as an auto-clutch!).. it was just coming out (the bikes were brand new and wrecks weren't yet available) when I put my old-skool 1998 power plant in, so I didn't research it too much.. might be worth looking into now if you're still engine shopping (as an aside, I have not yet seen anyone use the 'new' VFR1200 in a BEC application).

-also, take a look at that ST1300 V4 Honda.. great looking motor.. someone on here is (was?) putting one in an old Nash- the engine looked like it belonged in there!

Good luck Chris.. keep us posted whatever direction you end up going.. :cheers:

-ccrunner

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