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PostPosted: August 26, 2008, 1:07 pm 
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Location: Massachusetts
So does this mean that their is no reduction at the back axle of these motorcycles? THat's what I was wondering, where is the final reduction. If the 3.09 is at the rear wheel that would be perfect....

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 Post subject: Final reduction
PostPosted: August 26, 2008, 1:54 pm 
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
Yes, the VTX has the 3.09 reduction at the wheel similar to a differential R&P gears. The bikes that are shaft driven have a similar type of R&P gear built into the hub, but no differential of course. :)

Various bikes will likely somewhat different ratios so it would be wise to research any possible donor to see what it would have. On the other hand, they are designed to run on the street, with traffic so unless the bike has a very unusual rear tire diameter, they should be fine to hook up to a car diff.

At least that is how I look at it anyway. I have no doubt there are several experts who can give better input.

A sport bike is almost a given to be chain drive but some touring bikes, and some cruisers are shaft driven and designed to cruise at much lower rpm's than sport bikes on the highway. My last street bike (Suzuki VX800) turned 4,000 rpm at 65 and that gets monotonous to me after a while. I kept hoping for another gear or two to drop the rpm. When riding curving roads I never minded the rpm range.

Hope this helps.
James

P.S. this past week's auction saw a HD Sportster with the front forks broken sold for $800. Belt drive is another possibility for a Locoster.


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 Post subject: Re: Final reduction
PostPosted: August 26, 2008, 3:34 pm 
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JagLite wrote:
P.S. this past week's auction saw a HD Sportster with the front forks broken sold for $800. Belt drive is another possibility for a Locoster.


You would be better off buying a Buell that has been wrecked. The amount of work you would need to put into the Sportster compared to the Buell would be rather expensive, to the tune of about $2K. One of the Big Twins would be a different story. Also remember, the Sportster and Air Cooled Buells all have their sprockets on the right hand side (facing forward) of the case. This doesn't lend itself to being turned the correct direction to turn a driveshaft.

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 Post subject: BEC
PostPosted: August 26, 2008, 4:30 pm 
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Joined: January 22, 2007, 5:13 pm
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Location: Anchorage Alaska
I thoroughly agree!

A Buell would be an excellent choice and the newer the better.
Fuel injected and much improved over the HD offerings.
Problem is that living in Alaska, we don't get many wrecked bikes.
this was only the 3rd HD I have seen come up at auction.
I have not seen a Buell yet nor any of the other top candidates.

Any bike engine can be made to work that is chain, or belt driven by using the more common sprocket mounted in place of the ring gear and building your own diff carrier as is done in the FSAE cars. It wouldn't matter much which side the engine sprocket is on since you can shift the engine over or use a jack shaft to locate the final sprocket drive.


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 Post subject: Re: BEC
PostPosted: August 27, 2008, 12:49 pm 
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JagLite wrote:
Any bike engine can be made to work that is chain, or belt driven by using the more common sprocket mounted in place of the ring gear and building your own diff carrier as is done in the FSAE cars. It wouldn't matter much which side the engine sprocket is on since you can shift the engine over or use a jack shaft to locate the final sprocket drive.


But more difficult for use with a driveshaft as I mentioned :wink:

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PostPosted: November 20, 2008, 6:18 pm 
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Well its good to read this. Right now i have a 2007 R1 motor/tranny combo complete with wiring harness to the exhaust sitting in my garage. Whats nice about the 2007 is its a throttle by wire and at the same time it has variable velocity stacks (yes they move up and down depending on RPMs and throttle). Although im not building a conventional car, im building something a bit different.

Im actually building a 3 wheel car... or reverse trike.. that will resemble the VW GX3. Cant say i really love the T-rex as much. Ill be sporting a DOM tube frame chassis with a 315 rear and 205's up front. Im always looking to do something different but one day ill build a replica super7.

Ill start a thread when i get it started. Working with chassis number and suspension numbers right now. Being an engineer, it has to be close to perfect haha


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PostPosted: November 25, 2008, 11:13 pm 
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Location: Cmbridge Ontario
blue devil wrote:
Ill start a thread when i get it started. Working with chassis number and suspension numbers right now. Being an engineer, it has to be close to perfect haha


So...does that mean you will never complete the project? An engineer make work....? :D

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PostPosted: November 25, 2008, 11:29 pm 
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well technically your right haha... ill get it running and driving... then modify with little to no down time. An example would be im modifying the R1 swing arm to work... but once the car is up and running ill build a single sided swing arm in my free time. Im not one of those with a forever project sitting in the garage. I would rather drive and beat the hell out of it!


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PostPosted: November 29, 2008, 4:57 pm 
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Well ill stick with the sport bike engines... more torque, more hp, higher rpms

for the price of the hayabusa u could build a wicked r1 motor. and the best thing for sport bike motor to prevent oil starvation (lateral g's in a corner) is to get a racing oil pan. (remeber the bike engine isn't used to lateral g's that a car goes through -since the engine doesn't lean into a corner-)

these pans drop the oil pan a extra 1in of clearance (now u can mount it lower in chassy and get a lower center of gravity) and have baffles built in the oil pan to stop oil from swashing around while the engine is under lateral g's... unfortunatly these pans run like 350$ but its better then a dry-sump set up :wink:

u guys talked about the motor needing more torque to pull the weight of a car, if u read the owners manual it says the bike can take 900lbs on a 1000cc bike... :roll: so a little extra power wouldn't hurt in a 1000lb car.

the busa motor is a good choice because it can be modified to have more torque and hp with a lower compression ratio and still set up well for a tubo. the r1 cbr1000 and gsxr1000 are all good motors, but in most racing circuits the gsxr1000 is modified the most into the 1liter+ class. so dump the r1 motor and go with the suzuki family!

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PostPosted: November 29, 2008, 5:33 pm 
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Assphalt Kicker wrote:
so dump the r1 motor and go with the suzuki family!


Ill pass... While the gsxr1000 is presumably a better track bike, my preferance is the R1. Ive ridden both on various tracks around the midwest and the southwest. Cant lie though, to date my favorite bike for the track is the R6... Wish i never sold it :cry:


Assphalt Kicker wrote:
these pans drop the oil pan a extra 1in of clearance (now u can mount it lower in chassy and get a lower center of gravity) and have baffles built in the oil pan to stop oil from swashing around while the engine is under lateral g's... unfortunatly these pans run like 350$ but its better then a dry-sump set up :wink:


Its easy to just modify your current oil pan. Just drop it out and weld in some trap door style baffles. That way you control the oil flow from side to side. Its a common modification the SAE Formula guys do on the 600's they use. It would only cost you your time a couple small hinges, and some thin plate. Took me about 2 hours and $20 to do the setup on a SAE car last time i did it.




i know its a bit off topic but heres the current bike (at Mid Ohio):
Image

Heres the old R6 (Firebird Raceway, AZ):
Image

Im a die hard Yamaha fan... no Suzuki's for me.


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PostPosted: December 9, 2008, 7:17 pm 
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I found a 2002 xzr12 engine with 4000 miles - runs good and he will give me everything I need for $1200 - what do you guys think - will it work?


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PostPosted: December 9, 2008, 10:38 pm 
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Wow that sounds great but you will have to dry pump it or make mods to the sump to have it sitting sideways. Don't forget the clocks.


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PostPosted: December 10, 2008, 2:11 am 
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billsmith4 wrote:
I found a 2002 xzr12 engine with 4000 miles - runs good and he will give me everything I need for $1200 - what do you guys think - will it work?


xzr12 or zx12r?

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 Post subject: Kawasaki engine
PostPosted: December 14, 2008, 10:56 pm 
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It was a 2002 ZRX-1200R Engine


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PostPosted: December 15, 2008, 1:06 am 
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Honesty that is a bit steep for a 2002. Most Kawi's didn't go fuel injected till 03 so this would probably be carb'd. I've seen liter+ bike motors that are carb'd go for around 700 to 900 max.

Honestly if your looking to spend 1000+ for a motor look for a 02+ R1, 03+ 1000rr, 2001+ GSXR1000 or a 2003+ Kawi. Pretty sure all those years are correct for FI. You shouldn't pay more then a G for a carb'd motor.

FYI I've bought a 2004 and.a 2005 R1 motor for 1100 shipped for two race bikes I built. Don't buy into peoples high starting prices.

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