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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 9:44 pm 
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Location: Ontario
I had alot of help from a fellow in the states with this. When using a Hawk driveshaft adapter for a Hayabusa motor you need to ensure there is enough spline contact with the output shaft. The reccomended method is to remove the bushing that is pressed over the shaft. This is easier said then done, as removing the bushing is very difficult.
The way to get the bushing off the Suzuki shaft is to buy a two-bolt shaft collar that is slightly undersized compared to the ring. It was 1-5/8" inside diameter. Then space the split with a .040" or so shims on each side. Torque the bolts. Next bore the shaft collar (in a lathe) to the exact size of the sleeve. Be sure to measure with a mic. Remove the shim spacers. See http://www.mcmastercarr.com and search for shaft collars, two bolt. You can get them locally from an industrial (ball) bearing supply house. Also, see the picture below.
Once you have the bushing off you can machine the required material off the end of the bushing. This will expose more spline length and you needn't worry about comprimising the strength of the Hawk adapter.
The adapters do fit very snuggly on the shaft and may require warming up in the oven to ease installation.

Jimmy


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 22, 2009 10:28 pm 
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Jimmy, what a useful post. Thank-you.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 8:09 am 
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Do you have a part number for the flange you used for the front ujoint with this adapter? Hawk says spicer pto, but my driveshaft guy doesn't like that idea because it's for low hp engines.


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:02 pm 
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The Hawk 3013 adpater for my FZ1, used a Neapco N899-1-1 flange. This flange is for a 1310 ujoint, not a PTO U joint.

Andrew

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 16, 2009 1:21 pm 
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R2-2-899** Type 1 1.063 2.437-(O) 2.250 pilot-M 4 .328 2.106 1.766 1.484 2.750 BC-from rockford driveline

Those specs match roughly to the hawk supplied numbers, but it shows as a1210 conversion

I will check the specs on the adapter later, and confirm numbers


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 8:44 am 
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Location: Pemberton, BC
I thought I'd resurrect this thread, since I found the idea helpful, and more importantly, it was the only relevant information I found anywhere in regards of removing an output shaft collar, also referred to as an oil seal sleeve or distance collar (Yamaha parts manual).
The output shaft collar on my R1 needs to be trimmed for the same reasons, and I have been struggling for some time to get it removed. I have heard from the vendor of the Hawk adaptor that I should be able to just gently wiggle it off with some pliers, but no dice. I spoke to dealers, searched the R1 forum, searched the net, studied the service and parts manual, but could not find any information. I had tried tapping, after tacking on a bar, some gentle heat, various vice grip, nothing worked. The only thing left was to split the case. :BH:
However, I was convinced from studying the manuals and from the above thread, that it should pull off. The split shaft collar option was logical, but possibly expensive, so I devised a homemade solution, that worked. I had an odd, homemade gear puller, that had been laying around forever, and was destined to be chucked many times, when it dawned on me that I could make it work. I had some 4130 tubing that was 34 mm ID (the shaft is 36mm OD), split it and welded on some tabs, then welded the clamp to the puller. Finally, success. Contrary to expectations, if was not corrosion that was the culprit, but the collar is actually pressed on the shaft. Obviously not a part that gets routinely removed, hence no reference in the service manual.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 10:18 am 
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Nicely done!

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 1:59 am 
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Wow, nicely done indeed!! Posting here as I will need to do the same.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 21, 2014 1:18 pm 
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martin excellent work!

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