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PostPosted: December 21, 2013, 4:26 pm 
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I am getting ready to fabricate my engine mounts, and have to consider the whole issue of the driveshaft, before I choose the engine mounting and location.
Although I read all the relevant posts, quite honestly I still can't quite figure it out; driveshafts are very unknown to me.
I would like to keep it light, simple and Locost. At this point I have no plans for a reverse box. I purchased the Hawk adaptor and I have a Ford 7.5 inch rear axle. The Hawk adaptor bolts to a Spicer SPI-2-2-899 flange, which as I understand, can be found on MG driveshafts. The bolt pattern is 2 1/8 x 1 3/4; the Ford bolt pattern I measured as 2 1/2 x 2 1/2. The total distance between the engine flange and rear end, as it sits right now, is 67 inches.
I am planning on a center bearing, which could be located at the 37 inch point (from the engine); at that point, the lateral angle of the first driveshaft would be 5.5 degrees.
So here are some questions/deliberations:
If I use a MGB driveshaft, which is about 30 inches, I could move the engine back 7 inches and use two of them. Then how would the MG flange be adapted to the Ford? How do the drive shafts join in the center bearing?
If I go for a mixed setup, and leave the engine in the present location, and move the center bearing 7 inches closer to the engine, how would I match a MG drive shaft to something that bolts to the Ford flange?
Finally, I could also consider a complete custom fabrication, which would also open up the possibility of a torque resilient tube. However, that would probably be the most expensive option, but maybe the wisest.
As you can see from the pictures, I have a lot of room to move the engine around, so I can consider lots of possibilities.
So please, fire away with suggestions.
Thank you.


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PostPosted: December 22, 2013, 4:48 pm 
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hum! i just made a driveshaft for almost the same application! R1 / miata locost. the custumer had us do an aluminium one, so i kept the steel one, i will take mesurements tomorow, maybe this could work out! ( i will swap the flanges to make them fit your ford axle)

to sketch things up, look on http://www2.dana.com/torsional/default.aspx , if you are able to keep the tortionnals under 300- 400, you should be fine!

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PostPosted: December 22, 2013, 7:02 pm 
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Thanks, bobbeysr27. Sounds very interesting. I look forward to hearing back from you.
I'll check that link.

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PostPosted: December 24, 2013, 7:17 pm 
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There are two different flange yokes that fit the hawk adapter. One uses an 1000 series joint, the other a 1210 joint. Neither one accepts the mg joint. I suggest you buy a new 1210 flange yoke, 1210 joint, and 1210 tube yoke (once you determine the required tube size based on the ford parts being used).

For a two piece and support bearing, use a 90-97 ford ranger supercab 2wd shaft assembly. These shaft have a flange yoke with the larger bolt circle for an 8.8 diff but the 7.5 should have both patterns drilled and tapped, but you'll need to chase the threads in the pinion flange that were previously unused.

You can have the shop order everything and determine which 1210 tube yoke will be required for the ranger front shaft.

Also, a two piece shaft is a much heavier rotating assembly than a single, large OD shaft. A hybrid joint at the 1210 flange yoke and the rear flange yoke to step up the tube yokes to a size where 3 inch or larger .065" wall tubing could be used. However, from the pics, it looks like a straight shaft won't fit.


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PostPosted: December 25, 2013, 8:56 pm 
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I'd just buy the 210 flange yoke to bolt to the hawk adapter and obtain a used ranger two piece assembly, setup the ranger parts and determine if the rear shaft should be shortened to put the bearing where it needs to be, just have the rear shaft shortened and balanced, then install the rear shaft and bearing mount, install the 210 flange yoke, then measure the distance from bearing cap center to bearing cap center to provide to the driveshaft shop. Have them order the 210 tube yoke to match the ranger yoke.

http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/categ ... tcomp.html


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PostPosted: December 26, 2013, 12:26 pm 
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Thank you so much, Miatav8, for gathering all that info. This is good stuff for me to get my head around. I'll start looking for parts.
I played around with the dana torsional analyzer, and subsequently located the engine 1 inch closer to the centerline, thus reducing the lateral angle to less than 3 degrees. I have to raise it 1/4 in, to clear a bottom diagonal, but it is so light, there won't be much effect for the mass to sit a bit higher.
Thanks again.

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PostPosted: January 23, 2014, 3:39 pm 
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I did find a 95 Ranger 2WD Supercab driveshaft, thanks to MiataV8's suggestion. Even the parts guy at CeeGee's wrecking was surprised, and he was my first and only call. Hope this is a good sign.
Once I took everything apart and started measuring, here is where I'm at.
The Spicer combo of flange yoke (2-2-899), u joint (5-443-x) and tube yoke (2-28-1947) should work. The tube yoke is spec'ed for a 2.5", 0.063 tube; however, I did cut the front shaft and it is a 0.095 wall. So I will need to have the tube yoke turned down 0.060, but I'm pretty sure that there is enough meat there for it not to be a problem. Anyone have any thoughts on that?
The distance to the center bearing should then be about 26", which is a bit shorter than had planned, but it should work.
The rear shaft is too long (about 50" from the flange to the center bearing, at half compression, and will need to be shortened. I need about 67 in overall, so about 9" need to be cut out.
The rear flange unfortunately does not bolt to the Mustang pinion flange; the Ranger bolt circle is 4.25" vs 3.50" for the Mustang. However, I did some research, and the Ranger 7.5 pinion flange will fit the Mustang 7.5 pinion (1.218", 28 splines); so it appears, the easiest adaption, is a new pinion flange.
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/310494870454?ssP ... 1438.l2649
So here is one more question: when a shaft gets shortened, will it be cut so that the tube yoke will have to be replaced, or can the existing yoke be re -used?
The cost of the parts, including all new joints, so far is about $ 240 and $ 100 for the Ranger shaft. On top of that will be the shortening and balancing. I haven't looked into that yet.
Any and all comments are truly appreciated.

Just had another thought. If the end yoke has to be replaced anyway, when the rear shaft gets shortened, if I could find a tube yoke that will fit the 2.5", 0.095 wall, shaft and match the Mustang pinion yoke, then that would be a nicer fit. Does anyone know of such a tube yoke? The Mustang pinion yoke will need a u joint of about 3.45" x 1.062" dia.. I've looked all over the Northern Drivetrain site, but could not find a match.
Thanks.

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PostPosted: January 23, 2014, 4:42 pm 
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There are easier ways than swapping the pinion flange which can be a pain. Can't just swap it out and go.

About 3.45"? Need the year model of the mustang axle for the part number of the joint. The mustang rear ujoint and the ranger rear ujoint may be the same part number, so all you would need is a used mustang pinion coupler. The ranger rear joint should be 1.063" x 3.218", outside cap to outside cap.

If it is a different joint, then there are hybrid joints available for slightly more than a standard joint.

The driveshaft shop will turn the shaft to separate the tube from the weld joke for shortening.
If adapting, they will also turn the weld yoke down as required for a proper fit to smaller id tubing. There is plenty of material in the weld yoke for a wall thickness change.

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Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
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360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
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PostPosted: January 23, 2014, 4:58 pm 
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Just looked at your build page and see it is a 94 mustang axle. It should use the same ujoint as the 95 2wd ranger supercab, so all you need is a coupler flange for a 7.5 that uses the same ujoint such as 80s rangers and 4 cylinder mustangs as well as the 94 mustang v6 coupler flange. National drivetrain stocks performance oriented parts for bigger axles. Used is fine.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: January 23, 2014, 5:17 pm 
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I just want to put this out there. Based on experience of building two custom shaft sets for a BEC.

I started without a reverse box, had a two custom drive-shafts built and was very happy with the fit. And then drove the car. I felt that I could live without a reverse. At the end of the day, I found that even just driving around the neighborhood.

At the end, I purchased a reverse box from JaxSports. Had to have new shafts built to match. Just throwing it out there, you should consider the reverse, if you have not yet done so.

What are you considering using as your center universal joint?

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PostPosted: January 23, 2014, 5:32 pm 
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Once again, thank you very much, MiataV8, for taking the time to get this sorted.
It now makes perfect sense. I found the Mustang pinion flange yoke; now all I need to figure out where and how to get it.
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p266_mu ... html#photo
I much prefer not to change the pinion flange anyway, since the Ranger one is 1" larger; although it would fit the tunnel, I did build it to match Mustang flange.

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PostPosted: January 23, 2014, 6:44 pm 
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Your welcome. If you can't get it new, it is a very common part on 80s fords.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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