LocostUSA.com

I'm looking into running a drive line similar to a Legends/Dwarf car.

A 4 cylinder bike engine turned longitudinally (Kaw ZX10) so that the transmission output shaft points to the rear and coupled to a drive shaft running along the right side of the car.(single seater-the car is quite narrow)

The drive shaft then couples to a modified offset solid-axle differential.
I've got the Champion book and plan on using his 4-link set-up.

I'd like the flange to wheel flange measurement to be 45".
I do not have the finalized right side offset dimension,but it will be approximately 12" from the right wheel flange to the pinion C/L.

If necessary,I'll contact a couple Dwarf car racing car shops for quotes on a custom build,(they seem to use Toyota's) but I'm hopping you guys may have a few a "locost" alternatives.This will not be a race car,so I rather not have to pay for racing premium parts and materials.

I have an old Atlas 12x36 lathe,a small Enco knee mill,Hobart 185 amp 240v mig welder,torch,a nice thick flat build table,and the regular compliment of shop tools.

I would like to do as much of this rear end project myself as practical,but understand that may not be the way to go due to specialized tools and fixtures? I'll do all the bracket-try for sure.

Anyhow,if anyone has donor (open or limited slip) differential rear end suggestions and/or suggestions for reasonably priced shops(or even guys on here looking for a side job),that might have done similar work,please let be know.

Pic's snagged from Google searches:
The 2'nd and 3'rd pic's are examples of my project car.While not a Locost,I hope it would be accepted here in the spirit of the similarities.
The 1'st and 4'th pic's are offset rear ends for Dwarf cars.(I think modded Toyota's ?)

A Berzerkly?

GRM did a build on one of those a few years back. I believe they still have the build data up so you might start there. IIRC they had some issues with the glass body and finding solid mounting points.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

I don't know about their ability to handle power but some quad bike differentials are offset & narrow

Pic's snagged from Google searches:
The 2'nd and 3'rd pic's are examples of my project car.While not a Locost,I hope it would be accepted here in the spirit of the similarities.

...Not only accepted here Berke, but encouraged! I sniffed around trying to find a Berkeley to build for awhile but was unable to find an appropriate car on my timeline.. really looking forward to how you overcome the various issues you'll encounter on such a tiny, tiny lightweight car..

Please start a build log and take lots of pictures!

-ccrunner

_________________
Dean

1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com

Nice tube frame race car setup.They stayed with FWD.Wayyy more substantial mods than I'm aiming for.I'm hoping to go with the book 4-link when I come up with a suitable small'ish axle for a streetable play car.
I'll have to fab up some kind of rear subframe,maybe incorporate a roll bar at the same time to tie into the rather delicately built chassis.

Ya'know,I've never played with Quads but,that might work too.Any ideas regarding brands/models? It'll have to wind up ~45" total after any machine work.

Cool .Thanks!
I need to pick up another camera,can't upload anymore.
The car is at a family members house under a pile of stuff.
I'll be trading him a King Midget +parts car for his Berkeley -less engine and other parts.

I'm hoping by going to RWD,a little more room up front can be freed up.


I'm 200lbs+ so,passenger seating will be sacrificed.I'll move the driver seating over to the right a few inches,a drive shaft(and tunnel) can occupy the rest of the right interior.
I've had a stock,older,low mileage zx10 motor stored out in the shed for years complete with all the ancillary goodies.

The only issue with quad stuff is that it's pricey. Usually more expensive than car stuff.

_________________
mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Strongly suggest you consider using a two piece prop shaft with a center bearing rather than a driveshaft.

Do those have oiling issues when turned sideways?

Another option for the rear end would be to find a used Winters quick change rear end and replace the axles with the appropriate lengths.

Jeff

imho a regular QC (10" ring gear !) will be too big,
but a "baby QC" that is used in mini stock racing (IIRC 7.25 or 7.5" ring gear) would be sweet ;


http://www.1speedway.com/ministock_qc.htm

may check the adds in "racing junk" for a used one
or may talk to Ken @ Speedway Engineering ...
i cant find my pricelist right now (i used to be a dealer for SE), but IIRC the $$ for a new one build to spec was not so bad
SE can build it to any offset you want (or make you axles to fit a modified used one)

_________________
- Stephan -

Cool project.

I suggest a centered irs because:

The tunnel won't need to be much larger than the driveshaft since the driveshaft won't be moving up and down in it.
This will allow more vertical travel without binding and weird angles on the rear driveshaft ujoint in right rear bump.
Less unsprung weight; important ratio for a decent ride on the street in a feather weight car.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I built a very similar set-up a few years back. I used a CBR 900RR engine and a rear end from a Corolla GTS (AE86). I got it from a yard in Louisiana for a whopping $125 and it even came with a CUSCO limited slip installed. I shortened one side about 7 inches IIRC. Very pleased with the results..

Berke 1, I just removed a Totoya 8 bolt rear end from my car and went to a 1st Gen RX7 to get a LSD. But this would be prefect for you, you could cheaply change it so a spool setup. Id a very clean axle complete from drum to drum, I removed the 4 link brackets and moved them to the new axle. And guess what I live in the Western Burbs of Chicago.

PM me if interested.

Graham

Can you tell me what advantage a two piece might have on a 70" wheelbase car?

I'm hoping oiling won't be too much of an issue for my non-racing,mostly neighborhood runabout.
A Winters style rear end with length and offset options sound very appealing.I wonder if most use a differential or a spool?