LocostUSA.com

This company even makes a 5.5 inch 2 and 3 (organic) disc clutch for easy engagement. ..http://www.powertraintech.com/Files/5.5%20Racing%20Clutches.html

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

I didn't see where they had an application to fit the VW.

I also didn't see an organic disc set up for the 5.5", everything I saw was for racing and probably wouldn't be very good on the street.

Maybe I missed something.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

CE376A1A36 gives you a organic 3 disc 5.5 inch, the 36 being the spline number, which can be found on page 27 of http://www.powertraintech.com/Files/PDFs/PTT2013ApplicationGuide.pdf
Actually the entire part number option list and breakdown can be found there.

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

whats wrong with the ratios ? ... they look right to me

the pic i posted (with the side case removed) is actually upsidedown
i think the shaft that would get removed is actually in the top of the transmission
so keeping the vital splash oiling intact should not be a problem then

i dont think that 4th could be added to the 5th & 6th shaft .....

yeah, i kinda liked the idea of having another even lower overall ratio available (even when it comes with a little weight penalty)
... would be very handy in tight driving conditions

that, together with the significant higher price (and the higher weight) of the 02M makes me looking back towards the 02J again



i guess i was not correctly explaining why i `m looking into a "flexible" final drive ratio by adding a secondary trans;

for me a tight spaced sequential sport Bike transmission is one of the biggest attraction to a BEC

skipping that transmission and mounting a high reving bike style engine direct to a wide spaced car transmission
would imho kill that part of the driving fun completely

here are the gear ratios for a 09 GSXR 1000:

6th
33/ 26 (1.269:1)
5th
34/ 25 (1.360:1)
4th
36/ 24 (1.500:1)
3rd
36/ 21 (1.714:1)
2nd
39/ 19 (2.052:1)
1st
41/ 16 (2.562:1)

wonderful spaced .... but that is also the downfall of it;
get the rear end (final drive) gearing wrong and you are in for a lot of drive-ability problems
or in my case the use of different tire sizes in drastically different terrain can screw things up really badly

again, a secondary trans is obviously not ideal considering weight and inertia ...
but i just dont really see any other solution for this problem besides a Quickchange rear (what is also a kinda secondary trans)
i actually managed to change gears in 5 min flat with the o-ring sealed back cover ones
but a QC is still not solving the reverse problem (besides the high price you pay for it)

many buggies use FNR boxes (also just another secondary trans) ...
a RPM box weights in at 40 lbs (half the weight of the 02J),



but iirc that is without a provision for a differential (what makes it fairly useless for street cruising)
Quaife makes a LSD FNR box ... but that is just not going to happen for me ($$$ )
...

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- Stephan -

I was wondering if you could replace the 5th with the 4th. I'll look more at the picture, but I'll guess it is't likely.

You explained fine about the close ratio transmission, I just lost track.

Outboard motors ave little FNR gearboxes in them, but then you have a 90 degree direction change. Maybe that would work for some people.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
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Some of the industrial mowing/agricultural machines have quite substantial transaxles. Many are chain driven and most are straight cut gears. Just thoughts.

Bob

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Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16640&p=187700#p187700

Mancave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/mypic ... ow/mancave

Randy

sorry, my post was misleading (must be the fact that English is not my native language )

your absolutely right , i also think a somewhat flexible Guibo is essential for coupling the two together
i was just revering to the need of an adapter plate to mount the Guibo to the Hawk driveshaft adapter
it would make more sense to have a one piece "bike output shaft spline to Guibo" adapter

i still dont have an exact measurement ... (i`m in the process to 3D model the 02J T-axle based on two 2D drawings i found)
but i think your about right with 24"
looking at my concept drawing i think removing a foot to get to 102" OL should be possible if you dont mind sitting closer to the front suspension.
a aftermarket (aluminum beam?) VW bug style trailing arm front suspension would free up a lot of room for the feets/pedal box

looking at the very inspiring E-brake thread reminded me that i need to think about a parking brake as well

i definitely dont want anything on the rear hubs/knuckles...
but looking at the T-axle (especially the space/bell that was intended for the clutch)
makes me think it should be possible to may add an e-brake disc/drum or may even a pin/sprocket brake to the "Guibo to T-axle" spline flange
this would be a "gear reduced" location ...so only a fairly small brake would be needed

the e-brake would only be for parking
i plan on adding a two lever "cutting brake" for other stunts
they are sometimes very handy for forcing tight turns and also in mild offroad situations
Torsen diffs need a base torque to work,
so if one tire is in the air you can modulate the brake on that side to "cheat" the diff into locking up

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- Stephan -

I've seen vibration dampeners in snowmobiles and such that were a blade and cup design with rubber blocks jointing the blade and the cup. ..
Fixed position instead of the cam and lobe style used on a lot of motorcycles.
Might be a little shorter than two adapters and a giubo but I don't know how much misalignment they can take.

edit>> Like a cush drive on the back end of a motorcycle. ...

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

OK, now you've got me pondering. ...
You could maybe;
Drill and thread a mounting hole into the trans input shaft.
Take a spline to match the shaft, weld on a disc.
Weld 5 tabs equidistant radially across the face from the outer edge inwards ~80% of the radius.
True the dang thing up. ... somehow.
Do this again for the other shaft. drill holes in one of them, to pour in elastomer and for air to escape.
Clean one thoroughly and spray the other one with mold release. Or make it so the elastomer is a removable ring with a few minor changes. ...
Jig up square, use a piece of cardboard tube to keep the circle inside of the tabs clear so you can get to the clamping bolts and something (cardboard or heavy tape?) wrapped around the outside to function as the outer case of the mold.
Fill with elastomer and let cure. A little silicone spray periodically should be enough lube to keep the internal friction down if you get the shafts fairly lined up.

You can return to your regularly scheduled holiday programming. .......

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"There are times when a broken tool is better than a sound one, or a twisted personality more useful than a whole one.
For instance, a whole beer bottle isn't half the weapon that half a beer bottle is ..." Randall Garrett

lol .... sounds like too much work for me
i think i just stick with a proven Guibo

talking about Guibo;
found this BE to 091 t-axle pics on another forum;



that guy made a really nice home made cush-drive adapter



but unfortunately it was not up to the task .... he switched later to a BMW Guibo

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- Stephan -