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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 6, 2016, 9:13 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
if you were driving at 1000 rpm in rain falling at a 4"per hr rate , the water ingested would represent 0.00215% of the total air volume. Higher RPM would give a much lower percentage. If my calculations are right, hardly a hydro-lock situation, if that is your worry. Yeah, rain while sitting uncovered might be a problem.

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PostPosted: May 7, 2016, 11:30 am 
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Joined: July 7, 2015, 12:13 am
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Location: Atlanta, GA
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
It looks to me like there is not enough space due to the shift linkage, but if there is, it would involve custom machining and rebalancing, as well as fabricating a starter mount that allows for precise alignment, and its own wiring system to ensure it could only be operated when the engine is not running. This collectively would take a lot of labor and some special equipment most of us do not have.

I do not believe Martin included any labor in his total cost estimate of $100 and he obviously has the equipment.

Also, if it is not installed precisely, the gear can easily be damaged by the starter and the driveshaft building process would start over with a new gear.


So you're saying there is a way... lol Yeah I'll just push it.


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PostPosted: May 7, 2016, 11:57 am 
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I'm not sure why a friction drive wheel driving against the driveshaft hasn't been done. Maybe it has. It should be easy enough, he said (whoever "he" is). Mount the electric motor/friction wheel assy on a spring loaded pivot. Pull it against the driveshaft when needed. There would be no hi-speed balancing issues to deal with. I seem to recall someone building something like that here maybe 5 yrs ago. Mount the switch on the "pull lever". A lockout solenoid could prevent it from being activated while not in neutral.

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PostPosted: May 7, 2016, 4:04 pm 
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I don't know of any electric 14vdc motors with enough torque that could handle the radial load directly, but a fixed motor driving a chain to a friction roller on a swinging arm could work if there was room.

A cordless drill of the right voltage and a key chuck swap could probably work okay if there was enough room, but it would be tough to mount. A pinion sandwich gear would be a lot more practical with an irs.

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PostPosted: May 7, 2016, 11:42 pm 
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Joined: April 12, 2012, 11:56 am
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Location: Pemberton, BC
I'm with MV8. I think there is a possibility to use a low power option (like a cordless drill), but it will have to rely on a very large gear to be workable (yes, it could be driving the rear wheel directly with a roller, but really think of the practicality of it). To drive the drive shaft, I wanted the smallest gear possible, for space and vibration considerations, mated to the highest power possible. At 3 hp (or whatever the rated claim is), the SBC starter is quite capable. But I wouldn't say it is overpowered. The $ 100 is for the parts, so maybe another $ 50 for the machining. I did not do that, but a fellow Locoster gave me a good deal.
However, having said all that, I think it would be very difficult to implement it at this point. I made my starter motor mount to be adjustable in all 3 axis, because as MV8 said, it is important to get the right engagement. If you do not need a reverse for your inspection/registration, I would skip it. I have not used mine, other than for the demonstration video and testing it. I'm happy to push the car out of the driveway, and get going. The only time that I can envision using it, is being stuck behind someone, and having to back up in a hurry.
At this point, focus on getting the registration (if that is your goal), but otherwise, I think you would be better off to spend your money on a trailer, and use it as a track day toy. That appears to be it's roots. :cheers:

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PostPosted: July 29, 2016, 5:23 pm 
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Joined: July 7, 2015, 12:13 am
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Location: Atlanta, GA
Who needs reverse gear when there's plenty of gravity.

[youtube]<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/noi8HPFApe8" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>[/youtube]

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PostPosted: July 29, 2016, 8:10 pm 
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Location: san francisco bay area
Noise level, I'd start simple.
First, something to break up the open air audio signal of the intake, A cover of some kind, cowl induction would be cool but awful long visually. Intake noise can be a killer and I've seen it make the difference between running and getting black flagged.
On the exhaust side, lengthen the pipe after the muffler as much as you can, run the turn out an inch past the edge of the fender and have the very end pointing down using an elbow or a slash cut. Up is best, and a fountain of flames every time you lift would be cool looking but... The track wardens might not be so amused.
The B3 has an interesting exhaust, you can search for it here in nontraditional builds.
Consider a Vortex cone in the exhaust either before or after the muffler, I'd put it just after the muffler to push the wave front back up into the muffler chamber.
I've been wondering lately what an unbaffled chamber at the end of the collector followed by a typical muffler would be like, something around 1.5-1.65 times larger in volume than the engine displacement. It seems to work well enough for Yamaha to use on the VMAX. You could even use the shape of the chamber to "tune" the exhaust note.
medo medo mememememe..... rayeeelaaaatiiiii (burp) rayeeeeeeeeeeeee :zoom:

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Last edited by oldejack on July 29, 2016, 8:21 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 29, 2016, 8:19 pm 
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Location: Pemberton, BC
Now that was clever and funny :cheers: Looks like you're getting the hang of owning a BEC. I haven't used my reverse, since I tested it last fall. I hope it still works. :rofl:

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