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What do you guys use for coolant lines? steel? aluminum? wall thickness?
I'm building an R1 middy with rad at the front so I need to run tubes through the chassis for approx 6 ft with a few bends.
I hear aluminum is hard to bend.
I plan to use the bike rad which has 1" inlet and outlet.

I did mine in aluminum; 1" x 0.065 with a couple of SS rivets on the ends to help keep the hose in place. As for bending, I guess it depends on the radius. I think my die is 6", and it bends just fine. If you can source 5052, it is softer than 6061, and you could possibly bend it by hand. 5052 is commonly used in aviation for fuel, oil and even brake lines. You might want to check Aircraft Spruce for sizes.

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Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140

1" tubing may work fine but it's an unknown since you're at the mercy of the factory for whatever they designed in for pump capacity and the flow rating for the OEM routing. What diameter to use is also related to how long it needs to be. I'd go with one size larger, like 1.25" if you can find it, to negate the added frictional losses.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/

I've also seen finned tubes run on the outside to add cooling capacity.

I have no idea where they got it, but we have a 914 with engine transplant and rad up front that uses them to enhance the looks of the car. He has a double row off pipes run down both sides but only one on either side is functional.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Have you thought about using copper tubing from Home Depot/Lowes/Menards/etc? No need to bend it as you can elbows and solder the whole thing together. I've got some 1" copper in an automotive cooling system that has functioned without trouble for over 20 years.

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

You have to be careful with long water line runs and bike engines. Because the engine revs so quickly, it is difficult to get the long line i.e. mass of the water, moving fast enough that quickly. As a result, the water pump will cavitate. Design the system with a water resevior right next to the pump inlet, that it can draw water from to prevent any cavitation. Dave W

I am with Bill on the copper with soldered joints. Mild bends are easy and works well.
JEB

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● Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. ~ Enzo Ferrari
● I have a dream: My car has a new type of engine: a half-turbine half-reciprocated engine. I invented it! ~ Dr. Felix Wankel
● It has occurred to me, amateurs built the ark and professionals built the titanic.

Thanks guys.

I bought a really cheap Chinese bender on Kijiji that looked pretty good. Only $236 CAD.



http://www.kijiji.ca/v-business-industrial/city-of-toronto/manual-steel-copper-exhaust-pipe-bending-machine220242/c446706?channelId=101

I tried it on 1" x 0.065" 6061 aluminum tube and it worked amazingly well. CLR is 4.5"
Bit hard to pull because there is no mechanical advantage like on the $1500 benders.

In the end though, I think I'll go with the 1" copper plumbing pipe. It has slightly bigger id (1.055 vs .875 for AL), much smaller CLR (1" vs 4.5" AL) and I can solder it together myself.
Not cheap though. 12' of 1" copper is $48 and fittings are $5-$6 each.

I expect I can paint it black so it doesn't look like house plumbing.

Jan

Do you have any connections that can buy it wholesale for you?

The copper that is in my car was painted with black Tremco many years ago and still looks great. Oh, and and as a bonus, the painted solder joints look like the world's best tig welder made them!

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada