Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 19, 2017, 10:31 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 4446
Location: West Chicago,IL
Sure you can. No builder has ever taken on a project like this before. That is, up until their first. You sound like you have what it takes. Not time like the present! :cheers: For the welding skiils, practice, practice, practice. It won't take long to get the feel with any reasonable MIG welder. Definitely use Co2 mix gas. Skip right over the flux core wire. For design issues, there is lots of good people here to help. When you make mistakes, and there will be plenty, it is only steel, cut it out and do it over.


“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE

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PostPosted: June 22, 2017, 3:24 pm 

Joined: June 21, 2017, 9:39 pm
Posts: 1
I have been researching a Harley powered car for many years. Why a Harley? For the thump of it! Just a cool motor, and an alternative to a bike. Biggest issue I have found is the connection to the weak Harley bottom end. I am thinking front drive Subaru arrangement, kind of a 4 wheel Morgan look. Pembleton anyone?

I have seen discussions on a "cush joint" to connect the engine and trans, but flywheel still needs to be supported seperate from the engine. Not sure a greased flange bearing would hold up to 5-6000 rpm. Maybe a wet lubed bearing set up? I need to buy a twin cam B and a Suby trans and see what developes.

Anybody really stuck a HD to a car trans and not blown out the bottom end?

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PostPosted: July 19, 2017, 11:32 am 

Joined: October 8, 2008, 12:22 pm
Posts: 199
Location: Austin Texas
If you want to consider a Moto Guzzi engine, or would be willing to sort out a similar adaptation of a HD or S&S engine to a VW transaxle, you could have front wheel drive and a reverse gear that way. http://www.blackjackzero.com/pages/blackjack_zero.html

Another approach would be to mount a HD engine with its crankshaft longitudinal, run a belt to an off-center Baker transmission (mount the battery opposite the transmission to balance the weight a bit), then another belt back on-center to the pinion of one of these http://eliteracingtransmissions.com/cat ... /mx200-il/ This way you would have a sequential transmission with 5 or 6 speeds, a reverse gear, and drop/quick-change gearing, and front wheel drive. For rear wheel drive mount the MX200 in the rear and run a driveshaft that is driven by the belt that comes from the Baker output shaft. This way you won't have all the hassles of trying to adapt the HD engine to an automotive transmission.

To make this enough fun to drive I wouldn't want the curb weight to be much above 1000 pounds.


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PostPosted: February 14, 2018, 11:47 am 

Joined: April 27, 2014, 11:12 pm
Posts: 3
Good morning.

Atengnr, sorry if I hijacked your thread, but I felt it needed a bit of revitalization. :)

I'm relatively new here, but I would like to add to this thread a bit and maybe bring it back to life.

I too am in the beginning process of a Harley powered "something" other than a bike.

At first I was bitten by the Morgan Three Wheeler bug.

This is the new M3W powered by an S&S 2L coupled via Morgan's adapter and a Centa rubber "compensator" of sorts running via a remote supported Miata flywheel, clutch and '06 - '14 Miata 5 speed trans.


In the first couple years they actually used a Harley compensator mounted in a housing bolted to the Harley crank. Then it was packed with grease, but as most Harley owners know, the compensator is not the strongest part of the driveline and needs to be dripping with oil to not wear out the ramps. But the grease didn't do what they thought it would and they failed miserably in just a few thousand miles.

Now they use a Centa coupler that bolts in the same way, but has an inner 4-sided scooped out pockets and rubber rods about 1.5" in diameter roll between an outer housing with the mating 4-sided scooped out pockets. This allows for a non-metal coupling like a very loose Love Joy type coupling. These are holding up a LOT better and allow more drivability and less vibration.

This is a ready to bolt in S&S Morgan drive train. Pretty straight forward when all coupled together.


The S&S is a 56 degree v-twin and still has "some" inherent vibration and crank torque pulses. But it seems to get the job done. The claim a weight of around 1250# and a 0-60 speed of around 6.5 - 7 seconds. It runs a 175/60x16" rear tire and does get some wheel spin.

I've acquired a Harley late model touring rear wheel/belt sprocket and cush drive hub, but I decided not to go the Harley swingarm route. To do that I still needed a 90 degree bevel box to go from driveshaft to drive belt sprocket. For this I had purchased a GL-1800 final drive that without a LOT of work would be converted to work and it has a 2.75:1 ratio ($40 delivered).

But then I found on eBay a complete new takeoff rear GL-1800 swingarm assembly with disc, driveshaft and caliper ($99 delivered). I then purchased the adjustable shock and linkage to use it vertically like on the GW. But now my GW driveshaft is offset from the centerline of the vehicle by almost 5". The driveshaft on the swingarm needs to be preloaded a bit, probably in the 20# range and also supported. I've gone through many different scenarios on what or how to do this and had almost decided to go back to the Harley full rear swingarm etc.

Then Jays on the Talk Morgan forum from the UK posted a Photoshopped picture of a M3W that blew me away.


I know it's not a trike, but it still meets my concept of a very cool car. Not fast or anything, but just a great country road cruiser.

I plan on using an '00 to '02 Harley 88" twin cam "B" motor. The "B" motors are fully counterbalanced internally with spinning twin counter balance weights like used in many automotive applications. This motor in a new bike has NO vibration at all. Although it will still have some torque pulses, I think it will be a better choice. I can always do an overbore and get 95" and around 80 hp running a carb with a Thunderheart standalone ignition system. This makes the wiring of the motor very doable without a lot of harnesses/EMC etc.

I have acquired a mid 60's MG Midget wire wheel rear end housing for the rear of the new M4W. I will widen the housing 3" per side and Moser will be making my special axles. I'll run Triumph Spitfire front rotors with Wilwood 4-piston calipers and retain the stock rear drum brakes on the MG Midget housing. I'll be getting 2.5"x18" MG TA wheels from MWS in the UK. I'll be running 4.00x18" tires all around, so you can see I'm not into the carving corners too hard.

I still have my Boardtrack Racer bike project to finish and then it's going to be sold. This should give me "starting" money to build my car. Right now I've put together a budget and it's around $18k. But that includes custom leather seats made in classic British style with seat warmers, custom gauges and now probably GPS speedo to reduce the electronics of the trans to speedo.

So if anyone has any suggestions, experiences, thoughts etc on this project, feel free to let them fly.

Here is my Picture Trail album link if anyone would like to see current and past projects I've done.


Thanks and I hope the OP guy can get his project rolling soon.



1976 FLH Electra Glide
2009 FLTRSE3 Road Glide
Boardtrack Racer Project Bike
Morgan Three Wheeler Project

Picture Trail Photo Albums

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