LocostUSA.com

im a big motorcycle kid, im coming out of the dirtbike field and entering the hyper sport bike world. i wanna put a busa in a locost7 (im still planning on building im not actualy doing it).

im sorta lost with all the fancy fuel injectors and throttle bodies so any good references on engine i can read up on so i don't get lost when u guys explain stuff to me?

now i want to pupm as much hp and torque gain i can out of a basically stock motor with a few mods, willing to get headers, and maybe new heads, cams, air intake?
if u could add prices on stuff and give me references so i have a good idea about the price of everything so i can work it figure out my budget!

btw iam planning on starting in the summer right after school on build this 7 replica!

Busa motors are quite powerful for the weight of these car's to start with. My car is under 1100 and with 170hp it's got the same power to weight as a z06. As far is putting one into a locost you'll need a custom exhaust anyway(that covers your header upgrade) and the stock intake box probably could work but I'm running filters on each throttle(this cost's approx 10hp with the loss of ram air) I want to make a box for it and still maintain the filters. As far as the rest of the "mods" go anything from a busa bike will work cams etc. The nice part about building one of these car's is there's room to get creative. I think there may be a turbo in the future for my car...

This is a great board to lot's of help.

Doesn't the busa engine require the addition of a $2000 dry sump system when used in car applications? The R1 doesn't and is thus a cheaper option.

if u put a busa with a prop shaft then yes u need the dry sump set up

fortunely im going RR layout and sticking with the chain, building a custom chain differential and everything!
so i won't need the dry sump, concluding the engine will sit as if it was in the bike and im not limited to anything!

Yes you'll have the same orientation as in the bike, but the loads that the oiling system will see are still different since your car wouldn't lean like a bike.

Moti

People seem to having good luck with a swivel sump setup. That's what Dan's car's use and he hasn't had a problem just make sure you've always got enough oil in the motor. These sumps also give 2'' more ground clearance.

http://www.hayabusacentral.co.uk/shop/p ... product=14

That's still $587 on top of the cost of the Busa engine. I guess if were cheap everyone would be running one eh?

You can get em in the states for a lot less.

im not worried about the oil system, it should be fine on a chain differential.

but my frame might end up weight a little more then i would like so i want to know how to get some hp out of the engine cheaply...

also anyone know how to hook up a home turbo to this thing?

im not worried about the oil system, it should be fine on a chain differential.

but my frame might end up weight a little more then i would like so i want to know how to get some hp out of the engine cheaply...

also anyone know how to hook up a home turbo to this thing?

What does your chain differential have to go with the effects of dynamic G loads on an oil system? Bikes don't experience lateral Gs (if they do, you're doing it wrong) like cars do. Go ahead and don't worry about it but don't say you weren't warned when you pop that motor.

i have talked to a guy in the Sand Sport magazine that just threw the busa motor in a sand rail and had the bigger rear sprocket and nothing happened!

so i think ill be fine

Go for it then hot shot. More power to you. While you're at it go ahead and throw some mad boost at it yo. Maybe some Naaaws. Should be frickin sweet.

Its not the sprocket that kills engines; its the lateral G's like Chet said. I'm sure a sandrail doesn't corner that well so it probably is not an issue; on a bike engine in a sports car it is.

Just beause the oil pressure light doesn't come on doesn't mean it has sufficient pressure. I strongly reccomend an oil pressure gauge on any bike engined car for atleast the first few days of hard running. Its kind of disturbing the first time you see your pressure going from 60+ psi to less than 10 psi in a hard, long turn. If it doesn't, then you're set but for the cost of the gauge, its a cheap experiment.

well i was planning on getting all the fance gauges and such set up anyways!

and just for u chetcpo ill go ahead and put like 60psi of boost!
and nawwwws for the straight away!