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PostPosted: October 24, 2011, 9:18 pm 
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Joined: August 22, 2010, 9:28 am
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Location: Ashland, Ohio
oops, I should learn to type what I mean,

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I am planning on using prepainted .040" aluminum for body panels, and I'm thinking of either .018" or .020" metal for fire wall.


What i meant to say was 18-20-guage metal. So if 16 guage is about .060" what is 18, and 20?

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PostPosted: October 25, 2011, 10:07 am 
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http://www.unc.edu/~rowlett/units/scales/sheetmetal.html
Note that material type affects how thick a given gauge sheet is.

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PostPosted: October 25, 2011, 2:13 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Good score! Thanks for the link...I'm going to print that chart off & put it up in my shop. I always wondered how that worked...

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PostPosted: October 25, 2011, 8:58 pm 
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Joined: August 22, 2010, 9:28 am
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Location: Ashland, Ohio
here a crude drawing of the end veiw....

I'm thinking of using 2X2 angle and 4" or 6" channel. The inverted 2X2 angle on top will be plated with 3/16". I'm thinking the plate will give me a sharper, crisper edge to bend against. It will be around 50" long with bolts and helper springs on the ends to clamp it lift/tighten.The hinge will either be a bolt idea or maybe a couple of pieces flat on the end with a hole/bolt. I plan on putting bridging across the top from one end to the other to put more pressure in the middle.


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PostPosted: November 6, 2011, 6:12 pm 
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Joined: October 11, 2011, 12:04 pm
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Location: Annapolis, Md. USA
dmiller
Your idea looks good and will work. I built a heavier duty brake similar in design to what you have drawn but only about 6" wide. I use it to bend bracket material 3/16x3 or 1/4x2 up to 90degs. I got tired of my brackets having hammer marks all over them. I used 5/8 rod for the hinge and 3/8 plate with bushings for the side plates. Be sure to add a stop on the back side of the top angle so it does not try to slide back when the material starts to bend. I used a couple old valve springs to lift the top. It requires alot of effort to bend something so I have to clamp it to my car trailer when I use it. Ill try to ad a pic of my short stocky brake later.

wm


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PostPosted: November 6, 2011, 7:18 pm 
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Joined: July 26, 2010, 10:37 am
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Location: Tennessee
wment wrote:
dmiller
Your idea looks good and will work. I built a heavier duty brake similar in design to what you have drawn but only about 6" wide. I use it to bend bracket material 3/16x3 or 1/4x2 up to 90degs. I got tired of my brackets having hammer marks all over them. I used 5/8 rod for the hinge and 3/8 plate with bushings for the side plates. Be sure to add a stop on the back side of the top angle so it does not try to slide back when the material starts to bend. I used a couple old valve springs to lift the top. It requires alot of effort to bend something so I have to clamp it to my car trailer when I use it. Ill try to ad a pic of my short stocky brake later.

wm

Your idea of adding a stop on the back is a good one. I don't have a stop on my break and I have a problem sometimes with the material sliding back. Thanks for the idea.


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PostPosted: November 6, 2011, 9:20 pm 
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Thanks for the info fellas, I will have to incorporate a stop in my plans. Did anyone have any problems with the top angled piece wanting to bow up when trying to bend?


I'm working on the brake now and hope to post a few pics soon....

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PostPosted: November 14, 2011, 9:30 pm 
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it's done and works good on 16-18 guage. :cheers:

I can bend up to 50" wide, the slight radius at the bend is perfect for wrapping around 1" square tubes.

only thing I need to do is get some stiffer springs under the angle...


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PostPosted: December 25, 2011, 5:56 pm 
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Joined: October 11, 2011, 12:04 pm
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Location: Annapolis, Md. USA
I finally took some pics of my brake. It is not too pretty but does a real nice job. The thickest I have bent is 1/4"thick x 2.5wide. I hope the pics get posted ok. Note the stops behind the top plate. As mentioned above this is a must to keep a sharpe bend. You can see in the first pic behind the spring that I welded a piece under the top to keep it from spreading when tightening the clamp. There are Chevy valve springs to lift the top. I like the handles that the brake in the post above has welded to the clamp nuts so this may be a mod for me in the near future.
Image
Image
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PostPosted: February 6, 2012, 8:45 pm 
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Joined: September 18, 2006, 8:51 pm
Posts: 406
Location: Longmont, Co.
For those of you who don't really want an expensive brake after you do the car. I have a short write up on my site aout how I made a simple brake from hard wood to do all the bends the car took. I did happen to run into a guy who had a nice brake and I used his to do my hood bends on the edges. But I could have done it with my wooden one. Anyway pictures are on[url]Texaslocost.com[/url] under the body work button.
Wayne


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