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PostPosted: November 30, 2011, 4:34 pm 
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Hello all,

While making a grinder stand for my younger brother I found myself needing to notch the tubing I was using at specific angles.

If you have ever tried to hold thin walled tubing or even water pipe on a drill press you know how annoying it can be!

Starting with your standard 2x4 I cut off two 8"or so sections, cut thru both at the same elevation with the same size hole saw as your tubing.

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Then cut slits in from the closest end. Then drill in from what will be the top first with a small drill for the lag bolt then come back thru just the top part with a bigger drill to give the upper part of the lag bolt more clearance. This will be the clamping bolt.

This does not take much force to clamp so it could be a1/4"lag bolt or even a screw perhaps. On the far side you could also put a lag bolt to hold the grain together or a few screws as I did.

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I was going to use big washers on the bottom 1/4" lag bolts I had come from under the table but I did not have any so I made up 1/8"x 1" thick straps that probably work better anyways, I pre-drilled these holes too, to prevent splitting. I had a piece of tubing through both blocks while I tightened the bolts from below to ensure they would be lined up.

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Then you can tighten the two clamping bolts and tilt your table to the desired angle!

One thing to note is that you have to rotate the table off to one side to be able to drill thru past your table. This will slightly affect the angle you are trying to drill at.

You could also incorporate all the features into just two bolts, one on each side but this would just make it really annoying to use as everytime you undo the one side to release your tube/pipe it would swivel about the other bolt.

Jules


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PostPosted: December 1, 2011, 10:41 pm 
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Very nice idea. It looks like it would hold the tube pretty securely.

I'll have to give it a shot sometime.

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PostPosted: December 2, 2011, 10:46 am 
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Cool idea!

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One thing to note is that you have to rotate the table off to one side to be able to drill thru past your table. This will slightly affect the angle you are trying to drill at.


Trying to picture this in my mind's eye and I'm not sure it will affect the angle. However, a cheap HF gravity type angle finder would work great. A digital one maybe a bit better.

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PostPosted: December 2, 2011, 1:51 pm 
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It does allow me to try and explain better.

First when you set the angle on your table to say 30* the table and tube will be at 30*

Then you rotate the table about the main column off to one side and the table and tube are still at 30*, you have to rotate it if you want to drill on one side of the two clamping blocks. You could drill in the middle but I am not sure this would end well.

Now that you have turned the whole table off to one side the tubing is no longer under the hole saw so you rotate just the table to get the tube back under the holesaw, as you rotate it the angle decreases. If you turned it 90* the tubing would be level again!

Jules


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PostPosted: December 3, 2011, 8:50 am 
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Why do you need to be able to drill past the table?

Bill


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PostPosted: December 5, 2011, 11:12 am 
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You don't and I technically wasn't.

When you rotate the table you are doing it so that you can drill thru on the oposite side of one of your clamping blocks, because mine were so close to the edge I was effectively drilling past it or close to it.


You could probable get away with just one block if you used a 4x4 off to one side then you could drill closer to the center of your table.

Jules


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PostPosted: December 5, 2011, 11:34 am 
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You can buy V-blocks that would allow you to do this with any diameter of round tube with some clamps, but the wood is definitely cheaper. I'm making a compound angle square tube notcher for my buggy project using two 1" ID split collars and a section of 1.5" square tube. You end up with a clamp you can put on 3/4" square tube that allows you to rotate the 3/4" inside it as well as put an angle on the clamp. I need it to notch 3/4" square tube where it meets 1.315" OD (sched 40 pipe) at a compound angle. I'll post up a build log of my buggy project soon.

vee blocks on enco tools: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=420&PMCTLG=00

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PostPosted: December 24, 2011, 3:03 am 
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I've got a basic drill press vise that holds 1.75" tube just fine. Couple c-clamps to hold the vise to the table and you can tilt it all you want...


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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 11:52 am 
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That won't work with larger diameter tubing and definitely not with thin walled tubing, if you have not done it then you don't know how annoying it is.

A vise will work fine for heavier walled and barstock of small enough diameter so the vise can hold it.


Last edited by JulesTheGreat on February 23, 2012, 6:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 2:44 pm 
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JulesTheGreat wrote:
That won't work with larger diameter tubing and definitely not with thin walled tubing, if you have not done it then you don't know how annoying it is.

Everyone knows you can use a vise but this is by far easier to use and for a specific purpose.

This was posted for people who want to use it and will find it useful, not the likes of you. If you don't have something useful to add you should not post.
JTG,

If you want far easier and for a specific purpose, go down and get a 20% off coupon for HF and buy their tubing notcher for $35. You get unlimited, easy to read out angles, a great hold-down, you are above the table so no issues there and you are already over center, so no incredible gyrations to get it centered under the chuck.

Remember, what is easy or best for you, might not be best and easy for some one else and that someone that's been doing this for any length of time has probably figured out how to do the same job with another approach. Doesn't make theirs any more or less viable, just different. Don't take it as an insult! I used a vise for a long time and was gifted a notcher and wonder now how I ever did without it!

Be aware that just because someone injects another option in your thread doesn't mean you need to tear off their head for it. There is a lot of thickened skin around here (guilty!! :oops: ) as no matter how good you think an idea is, there are folks here that have been doing it longer and have probably tried and moved on from it. Don't snap at folks around here or you can find yourself in a lot of single post threads and that's not what we are about.

Enjoy the forum as there is a lot of great information and resources here (both people and written) and if needed, help is only a post away, but no one is paid nor required to answer, so try to maintain a cordial atmosphere and you'll always find what you need.

Cheers!

KS

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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 3:54 pm 
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JulesTheGreat wrote:
This was posted for people who want to use it and will find it useful, not the likes of you. If you don't have something useful to add you should not post.


Sheeeesh mellow out dude.
Heck I've used strap wrenches, a hand held drill and a block of scrap wood in the past to do similiar myself in the field when under a really short deadline.
When a customer is needing it repaired NOW to meet production you do what it takes to get the job done.
Try rebuilding the drive pulley mounts then rebelting an 85 foot long high speed transfer conveyor with 20 people sitting there watching you :ack:
As the saying goes, "measure with a micrometer, mark with a sharpie and cut with an ax". This stuff gets welded not glued with contact cement.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 5:22 pm 
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Said what I wanted to


Last edited by JulesTheGreat on February 23, 2012, 6:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 5:42 pm 
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JulesTheGreat wrote:
Why don't you two pay attention and read it again and I am not mad just pointing out that HIS post was pointless, you can think what you like but he basically came along with no idea of what he was talking about and slammed what I posted saying his vise can do the same thing, which it can not.

Read it again if you still don't agree, this was not a thread saying what is the best way to hold tubing. It would obviously be a several $$$ tubing notcher.

I was showing people how I did something to help them, not people like him who think they already know everything and want people to feel like they wasted their time making something because he can't see how useful it can be.

The same goes to the both of you, if you are not adding or suggesting other cheap useful ways to improves this idea don't post.

No one is paid and some people just shouldn't answer instead of trying to say I am out of line what did he add, he can go start his own thread on how useful my drill press vise is.

This was just a cheap easy solution, if you have ever cut thin walled tubing with the 8 TPI or whatever course number they are hole saws you know the forces when it grabs are huge. Could probably use two large hose clamps around thru the table as well.


No need to act like that. No one is trying to pee on your parade. He is simply stating that a vise has worked for him.

I personally have done the vise method and its worked fine but all of it was for 0.090"+ roll cage tubing. I can see where you are coming from since the thinner stuff needs a different method to hold it. Clarifying your point is fine - flipping out is not.

This forum is about discussing in a mature and respectful manner. We're all adults and we try to keep the youngin's out of here so it doesn't turn into "hey yo bro how sik iz my hellaflush ride?" Please keep it mature and respectful.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 6:10 pm 
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How is you assuming that I am flipping out and pointing it out in anyway mature?


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PostPosted: February 23, 2012, 6:11 pm 
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Methinks what the both of us are saying is, there is no point in (and this is not the best place for) statements such as
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>> not the likes of you.

I personally would tend to view such a statement as rather snobbish, as if you WERE saying that your's was the "best way" to do something.
Please remember that when all communication is written and there is no additional input such as body language, facial expression or tone of voice is it extremely easy to have what you type misconstrued and/or comprehended as a denigratory statement.
I personally have no problem with clamping thin walled tubing in hand vices and pipe clamps, you just have to be aware of how much pressure will cause deformation.

Good judgement comes from experience and experience comes from bad judgements. ......
Deform 3" stainless steel fittings a time or two and you learn darn quick just how expensive they are, especially if that part is paid for out of YOUR pocket.

:cheers:

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