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Is it okay to use a miter caw to cut steel tubing? No one makes a compound chop saw so I wan to use a miter saw, but I don't know whether the blade will last or not. Any ideas?

I've heard of people using miter saws with metal cutting discs. I'm not sure if its the best idea, not due to safety but more for the lifespan of the saw. If you buy quality discs you'd probably be fine, but thats just my feeling on it.

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**Build diary**

You could chuck a carbide disc in the saw...that would work for sure...but all that abrasive in the guts of the saw might make it wheeze some after a while

if you feel like spending a bit more for a better blade, try looking into a "dry cutting blade"

Companies like Milwaukee make circular saws that cut metal. The blades look just like a wood blade. Any industial tool supply shop should be able to get you what you need. Also look for cold saw blades, again looks like a wood saw blade. A lot of muffler shops use these so maybe check with a few of them. Cold saws tyically run very slow and use some kind of coolant so that may not work.

thats why i had suggested a dry cutting blade, but be ready to drop some cash for it.

I hope I'm not too late to the party here, but I thought I'd bring this one back from the dead and throw out my $.02

I debated for several months whether or not to buy a chop saw verses getting a compound miter saw. I shopped around at EVERY store in town, comparing prices, selection, different brands, keeping my mind open to any option.

Before I continue, I'd like to say that at the time, I had not heard of the now infamous HF band saw, though now that I'm used to my selection, I KNOW I wouldn't have been happy.

So after debating for a long time, I picked...

drum roll please..

... THE RYOBI 10" COMPOUND MITER SAW!!!!! $99 @ Home Depot.

Okay, a little over-dramatic. I'll tell you why.

1. Tool-less work table adjustment: I've used many metal chop saws in the past, all with that stupid 5/8" bolt holding that tiny little clamp with the cryptic little degree marks (is that 5 degrees, or 10?). In comparison, the miter saw is a DREAM. It has well-marked 1 degree increments, or locks into zero. All you have to do is loosen a knob (only tool you need is a hand) and rotate the work table to the desired angle, up to 47 or so, and tighten up the knob. And the nice feature is that the saw turns, not the plate the tube rests against, so the clamp isn't at some extreme angle like on a metal chop saw.

2. Compound adjustment: Anyone who has done the front end tubes can agree with me on this one. No guess work here, just set the table angle, then set the saw's angle, also tool-free. Up to I think 20 degrees or so.

3. The clamp: It's a quick clamp that can be mounted on either side of the WIDE work table (tool-free, quick and easy) and is very solid. Only complaint is that the tube you're cutting has to be 10" long or so to be able to reach the clamp, otherwise you can clamp a much smaller piece with a c-clamp to the work table back rest. No worries.

4. Speed: It seems to cut just about as quick as any metal chop saws I've used in the past, no complaints there. I am also still on the first blade!!! And my chassis isn't too far away from being complete.

5. WOOD: I've swapped the blades back many times for home improvement stuff, and it's equally great for that! Do that with your chop saw, well, I guess you could, huh?

CONS:

1. Plastic blade guide thing: On the work table there's a yellow plastic piece, I'm not really even sure what it's for. It can be easily replicated out of 1/16" steel, so it doesn't melt/catch on fire.

2. I've only been able to find blades at Home Depot. The 10" metal blade is apparently somewhat elusive. Sears doesn't carry them, neither does Lowes. But every Home Depot I've been to carry them, they're in the tool department with all the other blades/sanding discs/etc. They are different from the masonry blades, though they look similar. Pretty reasonable at 3-4 bucks each, remember I'm still on the first one.

3. Longevity? This remains to be seen, though I have heard rumors that the metal dust gets into the motor (conspiracy? Ohhh...), I still think it will outlast any HF tool, no problem.

So, in conclusion, I say IT WORKS FINE! JUST GO GET IT, YOU WON'T BE DISAPPOINTED, just maybe pick-up a few extra blades.

edit: Oh yeah, and I use the abrasive blades. Sparks, but it's fast. You know what they say, "You gotta crack some eggs if you wanna make an omelette."

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-Emile
Scratch building an IRS, RX-7 based book chassis @ myBuild Log

*Make way for the luckEseven!

all you suckers using chop saws and guessing angles and such, GO BUY A COMPOUND MITER SAW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I used our chop saw for about 10 minutes before giving up on it. I will still use it for 1/8" plate, but thats another story.



10" blades from Home depot just as erturbo mentioned. One blade lasted most of the frame, and I'm on my 3rd (2nd got lost).

This saw gets used DAILY at our fraternity, either by myself, or by other people cutting wood. It's caught on fire a few times. EXCELLENT.

Edit: The blade guard lasted about 16 seconds, and the reverse threaded screw for holding blades lasted about 3 (the internal wrenching allen part of it is very stripped) once the saw was out of the box. Oops.

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Georgia Tech
Ride and Handling Engineer for a major car company
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In response to evox,

Actually, my blade guard is still fine. It is sorta melted from sparks, but it's not bad. And you're better off using a box wrench on the outside of the blade's screw than that allen key. Otherwise, that's the exact same unit I bought.

And FWIW I use my angle grinder with a cut-off wheel for 1/8" plate... like BUTTER! You can check my build log, i have pics of the process in 1/4" plate, with no problem.

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-Emile
Scratch building an IRS, RX-7 based book chassis @ myBuild Log

*Make way for the luckEseven!

Hey guys, I have a HF type chopsaw in the box in my garage. Considering taking it back and picking up a miter saw (possibly the Ryobi you guys have).

I don't see the 10" blades here at my Home Depot. Have you located any other sources?

What other benefits do you see using these over the chopsaw?

Anybody else use a miter saw for cutting RHS (and other things?)

Thanks

Tim

If you are going to be cutting thicker larger like the 1/8" 3x1.5" rectangular I made my suspension brackets from, you will long for your chopsaw. And if you do keep it, throw that blade in the trash where it belongs and buy a Dewalt one for $7.

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He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

I have a HF 14" steel chop saw, and i'm very happy with it. It cuts quickely and pretty cleanely, i usually "dress" all the edges after cutting though.

I have a mitersaw, but with the amount of heat that is generated in cutting the steel i did not want to melt that expencive miter saw.... Also use the right tool for the job.


Good luck

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I used a miter saw with a metal cutting carbide blade and it works great. Cut my whole frame with it. Nice clean, accurate cuts. The blade died on the last piece of tubing. That was my fault from rushing the cut. If I did it again I would still use the miter saw, however I wanted it around to work on the house, etc. too. Chop saws are still an essential tool. My HF saw lasted 12 years before it died, replaced it with a Dewalt because I liked the clamp mechanism better. It's less than a year old and is showing signs of dying!

Rod

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I've been super-happy with my HF bandsaw. It's slow, but it doesn't slow me down since I need to dress and fit tubes while it cuts. It can also go vertical, and the non-abrasive cutting is clean, quiet, and makes good cuts.

I did just pick up a compound mitre at a yardsale. Any more compound angles will be made on the wood saw with an abrasive blade.

Thanks for the replies guys. I think I will go ahead and pick up a compound miter. I have a small garage and don't have the space for both a miter and a chop saw, so I'll have the miter be a multi-tasker.

The Ryobi seems to be a good deal, $120 CAN up here at Home Depot. Prior experiance by others is nice as well.

Thanks

Tim