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PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 1:42 pm 
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Location: Champion, Ohio
When I moved a few years ago, my English wheel anvils and the main wheel disappeared. I've checked the three garages it could be at, and nobody knows where it is. I suspect one garage, but it's packed with crap, and the chances of finding it are minimal.

SO, I'm looking at almost 200 bucks for replacement anvils and wheel. That's way out of my budget. My budget is much closer to 0, being unemployed.

Does anyone have extra wheels/anvils? Or material to make some? 8" diameter steel would work for making a new main wheel--3" wide is the objective. Anvils would be a little easier to make from a size standpoint--about 3" diameter, I figure.

Anyone have any ideas? I figure some steel company that made large diameter steel rod would have cut-off ends, like from a 12" rod, with the tapered draw ends... I could turn it down and use it, whereas otherwise it would be scrap.

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PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 6:46 pm 
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I lucked out when found some gear blanks at a salvage yard. Upper wheel 10" dia x 3" wide. I'm not sure you need them any wider than 2" since the work is done in the center 1/2" or less.

My lowers are only 2-1/2" dia. and seem to work fine. Look for a large steel fab shop or supply yard.

This type wheel (photo) would probably work. Belt drive wheels. Machine them to remove any crown and mount bearings. Check tractor parks places.


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PostPosted: April 29, 2013, 10:15 pm 
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Joined: August 19, 2006, 5:48 pm
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Location: S. Florida
SteyrTMP wrote:
Does anyone have extra wheels/anvils? Or material to make some? 8" diameter steel would work for making a new main wheel--3" wide is the objective.

Anyone have any ideas?
A 3" long piece of 8" dia steel pipe with flat plates to hold bearings welded to it? Although the tractor belt pulleys look better.

The 1988 Honda CRX has a 9" dia rear brake drum.

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PostPosted: April 30, 2013, 2:36 am 
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Jon,

I'm not sure why the width either. All the professional wheels are 3-4" wide. The China Freight one I modified is only 2, if I remember correctly, maybe 2.5. My main reason for modifying it for the wider setup was so I could use the go-kart slick. The only way I can think to do the hood, shy of sending it out to a shop with a slip-roll, is to use a go-kart slick, and a large wooden bead, to avoid making crown, and rolling the corners, so I can have the larger radius by the scuttle, and the smaller by the nose. I haven't been able to find any 2" go-kart slicks.

I will have to look for pulleys, though. Never thought of that.

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PostPosted: May 3, 2013, 12:27 am 
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Been looking, no luck around my area.

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PostPosted: May 3, 2013, 9:21 am 
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Location: SW Wes Consin
You might try posting at this site: http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/search.php somebody there has made most everything. The reason for the heavier anvil is that you need the inertia the extra mass gives when wheeling.


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