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My next project has round tubes (braces) intersecting with round tubes at angles and to make maters worse the tubes have bends in them that have to be aligned.
First cut is fairly easily done using a tubing notcher (luckily mine is a mill). I found that a wood hand screw clamp (Harbor Freight #6987) that I call a parallel clamp works wonders. I clamp on to the tube near the offending cut that needs to be made. I align the clamp with the intersecting tube. Note that the clamp can be rotated around the tube to be cut and tilted to match the exact angle of the cut. The clamp is now the reference for the cut. The tubing notcher is set to the angle of the clamp and the tube is rotated to align the clamp with the hole saw. Cut the tube a little long and adjust as needed.
This saved me a lot of "fooling around".

JMR

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When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

Do you have pictures of your set up?

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Here's mine.

The rear bend section of the upper roll bar brace needed to be parallel with the bottom of the chassis and parallel with the length of the chassis. Trying to juggle all the angles was giving me a headache! I held the tube outside of the roll bars they connected to and with my 3rd and 4th hands, set the clamp in place to match the angle of cut I needed. Next time I will get a helper. I actually figured out the first cut (saddle?) fairly easily, made the cut and used the fit to hold the bar in rotational position while I set up the clamp for the other cut. I cut long, made sure the angles were good and then did a final cut.
I have a few of the parallel clamps but an inexpensive Harbor freight one will do it easier. Another possibility is to space a couple of 1x's apart with a spacer the size of the tube to be cut. Clamp the tube lightly between the "clamp" with a "C" clamp till positioned, then tighten. The parallel clamp lets it rotate about the tube and rotate along the tube. The "clamp" can be placed anywhere along the tube that does not interfere with the setup or the cutting of the saddle.
I know, I know, I am showing off with my mill but the same result can be done with a tubing notcher.

JMR

I will post pictures of my new project if there is interest (single seat - sports racer - R6 Yamaha - track car)

_________________
When you're racing, it's life. Anything that happens before or after is just waiting -- Steve McQueen from LeMans

My build log viewtopic.php?f=36&t=10658&start=0 NOW NAMED =The Wycked 7

My other build log viewtopic.php?f=18&t=15162 The Skayt'R6

Of course there's interest--that's what the Non-Traditional Build Logs forum is for!

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles