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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: May 24, 2016, 8:13 pm 
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Joined: June 8, 2010, 8:02 pm
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Location: White Rock, BC, Canada
Hey guys,

Maybe this is common knowledge, but it's one of those things you don't know until you do. I've used it a few times with good success.

This isn't a proper write-up because machines and needs are different, but basically you just chuck up the piece you want to "machine" in the drill press somehow. If it has a center hole, a long bolt or ready rod tightened through it works well. Loctite works well too if no hole or a blind hole is needed (so long as you can heat up the part after to release it). Then have at it with a hand held grinder,cut-off wheels, files, sandpaper, calipers until results are achieved. I've done delrin and aluminum bushings etc like this and have only had success.

It would be best to support the bottom with a tail-stock. Especially since some drill-presses have friction fit chucks that will fall out if you use them like this (I was surprised to learn that suddenly when my chuck fell out). I haven't done this yet, but intend to make some sort of tail stock for the next time I do something. I am thinking I will machine up a turn signal lever next.

Here is a woodworker doing similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGu0SLWoayY
If someone has an easy way to do a tailstock support that has a bearing, I'd like to hear it. Not sure I could stomach the solid tailstock on the spinning part like in the video.

Cheers.

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PostPosted: May 24, 2016, 8:49 pm 
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Joined: December 16, 2015, 5:31 pm
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How about the hub of a bicycle wheel with the axle ground to a point. You can attach the hub to a piece of wood or metal through the spoke holes with screws to attach it to the drill press table. I think it could work. Hope that helps a little or at least gives you an idea. For something's bit heavier you might use a water pump. Remove the hub and grind a taper on the shaft.


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PostPosted: May 24, 2016, 9:35 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2015, 1:56 am
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Location: Morrisville, PA
Get a live center from Grizzley and make a mount for it you can clamp to the table. if you can get a matching Morse taper all the better to hold it in.

other than that i am not a fan of using a standard drill press as a lathe or mill for safety reasons. The quill is built for vertical/push loads not horizontal. Cutting Plastics, woods, polishing aluminum sure but i wouldn't rely on it for long term use as the bearing will fail or worse the work piece will fly loose.

Every now and then a craftsman/atlas 109.xxxxx lathe can be had for cheap. its a very low duty 6in but it will do most things we need safely.


C10CoryM wrote:
Hey guys,

Maybe this is common knowledge, but it's one of those things you don't know until you do. I've used it a few times with good success.

This isn't a proper write-up because machines and needs are different, but basically you just chuck up the piece you want to "machine" in the drill press somehow. If it has a center hole, a long bolt or ready rod tightened through it works well. Loctite works well too if no hole or a blind hole is needed (so long as you can heat up the part after to release it). Then have at it with a hand held grinder,cut-off wheels, files, sandpaper, calipers until results are achieved. I've done delrin and aluminum bushings etc like this and have only had success.

It would be best to support the bottom with a tail-stock. Especially since some drill-presses have friction fit chucks that will fall out if you use them like this (I was surprised to learn that suddenly when my chuck fell out). I haven't done this yet, but intend to make some sort of tail stock for the next time I do something. I am thinking I will machine up a turn signal lever next.

Here is a woodworker doing similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGu0SLWoayY
If someone has an easy way to do a tailstock support that has a bearing, I'd like to hear it. Not sure I could stomach the solid tailstock on the spinning part like in the video.

Cheers.

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There is no shame in defeat, so long as the spirit is unconquered

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PostPosted: May 25, 2016, 3:11 pm 
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Joined: June 8, 2010, 8:02 pm
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Location: White Rock, BC, Canada
factorypartsjoe wrote:
How about the hub of a bicycle wheel with the axle ground to a point. You can attach the hub to a piece of wood or metal through the spoke holes with screws to attach it to the drill press table. I think it could work. Hope that helps a little or at least gives you an idea. For something's bit heavier you might use a water pump. Remove the hub and grind a taper on the shaft.


Good idea of re-purposing an old part. My home drill-press is pretty small, so would want something smaller. Just a bearing bolted through with a sharpened head maybe.

Quote:
Get a live center from Grizzley and make a mount for it you can clamp to the table. if you can get a matching Morse taper all the better to hold it in.

other than that i am not a fan of using a standard drill press as a lathe or mill for safety reasons. The quill is built for vertical/push loads not horizontal. Cutting Plastics, woods, polishing aluminum sure but i wouldn't rely on it for long term use as the bearing will fail or worse the work piece will fly loose.

Every now and then a craftsman/atlas 109.xxxxx lathe can be had for cheap. its a very low duty 6in but it will do most things we need safely.


"live center" - there's the term I couldn't think of. Thanks. In terms of safety, this obviously has to be used with a bit of common sense. Side loads should be kept minimal, including out of balance loads. Just as you shouldn't overload a little lathe, you shouldn't overload this setup. For the stuff I have done so far side loads have been very slight since the work is done with grinders/files etc. I really don't *need* a lathe, and can't give up the floor/bench space to have one currently. For the odd motor mount bushing etc this works well.

Cheers.

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