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PostPosted: November 20, 2017, 4:35 pm 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
As my frame is complete (essentially), and as I'm now doing a lot of aluminum cutting, I just ordered one of the 8 1/4" non-ferrous metal cutting Concord blades for the used-but-new-to-me Craftsman compound miter saw my wife just picked up for me at a second-hand store a few days ago.

It just HAS to be better than using carbide cutting wheels & heating the aluminum up to about, oh, 2 million degrees or so (whereupon I invariably end up having to grab the piece at some point or other! :shock: ).

The non-ferrous ones are cheap - $22CDN (or about, what...um...$8USD?) on Amazon Prime, with free shipping. If I like it, I'll probably pick up a steel-cutting one, too.

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PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 8:34 pm 
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Joined: August 21, 2017, 7:37 am
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Thought about getting one for a circular saw blade. Aluminum gunks up abrasive stuff. But im no where near body panels yet


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PostPosted: November 22, 2017, 12:57 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
terryjr wrote:
Thought about getting one for a circular saw blade. Aluminum gunks up abrasive stuff. But im no where near body panels yet

If body panels are your primary target, I can highly recommend the HF electric sheers. With a little bit of lube, 3030 AL sheet cuts like butter.


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HF sheers.JPG
HF sheers.JPG [ 20.69 KiB | Viewed 507 times ]

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PostPosted: November 22, 2017, 3:08 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
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I had one of those and it lasted a whole 30 minutes. The replacement lasted 2 days, and the third and final lasted just a couple hours. I broke down and bought an air nibbler. Worth every penny.


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PostPosted: December 3, 2017, 10:07 am 
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Joined: August 21, 2017, 7:37 am
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Blades dead, first post updated


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PostPosted: December 3, 2017, 6:41 pm 
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Joined: January 31, 2012, 12:49 pm
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Location: Louisville KY
I can say that my HF electric shear hasn't burned up yet, but if you're doing 16 gauge it requires a lot of coaxing. However, 18 and thinner -- like buttah!

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PostPosted: December 7, 2017, 2:57 pm 
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Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
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Location: Summerville, SC
I saw that you overheated the blade with your miter saw. That has me thinking I want t use my blade on my 1 hp table saw on the lowest speed pulley set.

Thanks for the update.

:cheers:

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PostPosted: December 27, 2017, 11:24 am 
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OK, so now I'm on the fence about using a CMS for cutting all of my steel. The more I read about it the more confused I get. Some people it works fantastic, and others it completely sucks. For Xmas I got a Dewalt 10" Compound miter saw with the extended warrantee. It was bought at Home Depot and I have been thinking of returning it for a metal chop saw with the traditional abrasive blade, or I can return it for a store credit and use a 4.5" thin cut. I can buy ALOT of thin cut discs for the price of a CMS and blade, hell I bet I could completely wire my shed for what I would get back on a gift card.


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PostPosted: December 27, 2017, 12:32 pm 
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Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
I bought one of those non-ferrous circular saw blades, and mounted on my new-to-me Craftsman miter saw my wife picked up for me.

That thing cuts like a laser!!! I tried it out on some 6061-T6 1/4" plate. It's quiet, it's FAST, and it makes crisp, clean, smooth edges...and the blade & material stay dead cold during the cut. Pretty impressed!!

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PostPosted: December 27, 2017, 1:05 pm 
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Location: Pemberton, BC
loki98t5,
I believe the general problem with using a regular mitre saw, is the RPM. The dedicated cold cut saws (and I notice that Milwaukee stopped making one) turn 1,300 RPM vs around 4,000 for wood cutting.
I have also found that for some complicated, double mitre cuts, it is hard to beat a good ol' hacksaw. By the time you set up the mitre, you're done with the hacksaw. A few frames with different, quality blades, go a long way, especially on 16g.
https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/LC1230

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PostPosted: December 27, 2017, 2:53 pm 
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Joined: August 21, 2017, 7:37 am
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yes heat is the problem. Even when shopping for metal blades most say max 1800 rpm on them. I took the gamble when this blade said max 5800 rpm and thought maybe they had a secret recipt to keep blade cool while cutting. As long as i cut perpindicualr to the material it was fine, no orange glow. I pretty much burned it up trying to miter a 1x1x1/8 angle. I put the one leg down flat and while it was trying to cut through the flat leg, 1" deep cut" it overheated and when you overheat a blade thats pretty much it.

Since then i have been using a $12 carbide sawzall blade and have easily made 100 cuts and counting. The blade has been getting slower but still working. I had to order another holesaw, i migth pick up another one of these sawzall blades too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Diablo-6-in-8-Teeth-per-in-Steel-Demon-Carbide-Tipped-Thick-Metal-Cutting-Reciprocating-Saw-Blade-DS0608CF/205426155

lil update on project too since this thread seems to get a lot more traffic than my build threar lol.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Tube-thing/i-wRWQZkK/0/23e0a1e5/XL/20171224_135336_HDR-XL.jpg


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PostPosted: December 27, 2017, 8:27 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
If you're cutting outside, you might try flood coolant. Water with some cheap dishwashing soap works well. If it's enough to keep the blades from burning up you can cobble up some coolant shields from whatever is handy. Even cardboard and duct tape will work if you line it with aluminum foil or a plastic bag so the cardboard doesn't get soggy.

Also, if it's practical to use a smaller blade, the surface speed of the small blade will be less than that of the proper blade.


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PostPosted: December 28, 2017, 12:11 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
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I think i will return the CMS and look at other options. I might be able to get a small band saw in my shed if i organize it a bit differently. For now i think i will use my 4.5" with .035 thick cut off disks.


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PostPosted: December 29, 2017, 8:36 am 
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loki98t5 wrote:
I think i will return the CMS and look at other options. I might be able to get a small band saw in my shed if i organize it a bit differently. For now i think i will use my 4.5" with .035 thick cut off disks.


i used a 10" cutoff wheel in the same saw it worked too just way dirtier and left big burrs. I was mostly cutting stainless stell exhaust tubing with it. IT didnt last very long but i would prefer it over trying to square cut with 4 1/2" discs in an angle grinder. You can get 5 packs or whatever pretty cheap on ebay. just be prepared for a spark shower and lots of dust. I used it outside, i dont think i would try it inside. It also ignited some leftover wood dust in the saw body


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PostPosted: December 29, 2017, 9:10 am 
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I did nearly all of the cuts on Tetanus with a 10" abrasive blade in my compound miter saw. Yes, lots of noise and sparks and I set the leftover sawdust on fire as well. About 60 or 70 cuts in, I had burned a hole through the dust collector sheet metal. Other than that it worked great.

A couple of weeks ago I picked up a small band saw at Northern Tool. DANG I LOVE THAT THING!!!!
quiet, tough, cuts square right out of the box, and no sparks.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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