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The specs on the Rage 3 saw (the one in the vid) says they turn at 2500 RPM - my saw turns 4000 on load. I wonder if that's too much...

I bought a cheapy Tradesman mitre saw from Crappy tire, 10 inch. It turns 4800 with no load. I just stuck in a metal blade and cut away. Ive basically finished cutting now and it still works fine. I did melt the little scoop that directs the sawdust out but just made another out of a piece of tin can.

I was round a guy's house this week building a trike in his garden.

Basically because the thing uses a 4 1/2 litre straight six and it's too much hassle to move it the 100 miles or so to my workshop.

He's got some 1 7/8" OD 3/16" wall tube for the frame and some 3" x 2" X 1/8" box for the cross ties.

I took my Rage cut off saw along.

The word I'd use is "romps". As in "That saw just romps through that stuff..."

The motor and the gear box in the Rage saws is a bit clever too, I'm pretty sure you wouldn't get very good results with using the blade in another machine.

FYI, the Ryobi compound miter saw eVox recommended is $60 at Home depot until December 1st.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... =100634340

Picked one up today for the frame build. Awesome!

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William Conway
Building the Spartan 7 - Build Blog
LocostUSA Build Log
How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time...

IMHO, a chop saw can never compare to a band saw. A bandsaw is quiet, has a much longer lasting blade, and doesnt throw fiber dust, metal shavings and sparks in the air to inhale.

The comparison is valid because for some builders it means spending the money to purchase one OR the other.

I have all three and I find the CMS more useful than both chop saw and band saw.

Moti

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Moti

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Good morning all ......Gee, is four years later, too late ?? The method I use is, Measure the length- scribe a line. Set the "angle" on the protractor- scribe that line. Cut as close to the lines as I can with my reciprocating saw, then "sand" up to the line( 6' belt sander/ 80grt. metal sanding belt), all the while checking angles with the protractor--------Perfect! I did want to buy the H.F. horizontal band saw, but , had to use what I had!(Locost Haynes 7)...................Don

$19 hand grinder from HF works as well as anything to simply chop tubes.

Get fancy, and have one of those for cutting, and another for grinding.

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

If I could have only one cutting tool it would be a bandsaw... does everything.

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I put a metal cutting blade in an old Delta, but when I started cutting .375 2x3" for another project I killed a drive belt, and now they are on backorder (unobtanium). But I got it used $25 and it served me well for 5 years.

Now I have a used Clarke Tool bandsaw I got from my father in law. It is 20 years old and still kicking, some chinese tools are awesome. This has been invaluable for the frame cutting.

For small stuff, the 6" HF chop saw works ok.

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not to mention smell like burnt oil

Al

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Super Seven 3.4

Nice if you can afford a bandsaw or whatever but my el cheapo chopsaw with metal cutting discs cut my chassis just fine. I paid less than a 100 bucks for it and now I can use it for wood.

Seems to me that one on of the fundamental skills that is needed in this project is to make a clean cut!

I wish I could find a good vertical band saw that was built for 16ga (give or take) for an amount in my budget. Most of the "affordable" band saws are rated for styrofoam and balsa wood. The might cut some very thin metal, but only with a ton of complaint and noise. I look forward to using mine on wood veneer for the dash, and perhaps some small fiberglass parts.

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I have been very happy with my Northern Industrial Dry Cut Metal Saw. It's not much good for cuts over 45. The saw doesn't even notice 1" tube, and I have cut some 1/8" plate.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200326857

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http://blog.fireflyracing.com
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13233

I have just bought a Dewalt 12" compound miter saw and bought a separate blade for cutting metal among other things. Well I started cutting the frame today and after about 15-20 cuts the blade does not cut properly. I have currently made 50-60 cuts and the blade is missing about 20% of its teeth. Did I buy the wrong blade or am I using the wrong tool. The blade is a 12" Diablo blade with 96 teeth for non-ferous metals http://www.homedepot.com/buy/diablo-12- ... N4Jj7ZEDJ8. The blade was $65 and at that rate about $1 per cut. I could have got it cut at the metal shop for that price

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