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PostPosted: June 6, 2018, 7:56 am 
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That type of sensor he has isnt prone to vibration failure like the bigger diaphram type sensors you see on cheaper oil pressure sensors. Thats more like a transducer, ive had the diaphram ones fail, then remote mounted it with braided line.

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PostPosted: June 12, 2018, 9:06 pm 
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So I picked up the car at 12am on Friday and was at the track at 7am.

I got about 5 laps in before she started running too hot. I was able to get her on and off for a few laps by letting her cool down between sessions. I will do what I did last time, drain the whole system and slowly refilling while elevating the rear of the car. Should be fine. Maybe I can find someone to vacuum fill it.

She also started to leak oil from the oil fitting that I installed where it connects to the block. That will need to be sorted too. The only other issue was with her blowing oil out of the catch can. I am going to try to set up a drain back to prevent that issue.

Ignore the radical in the video (fyi, that's the car with the lap record at high plains... nemesis)
https://youtu.be/i55OihpHXfg


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PostPosted: June 13, 2018, 1:11 pm 
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Nice. The extra blowby probably just from new rings and should slow down as they seat

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PostPosted: July 10, 2018, 10:26 am 
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Location: Mooresville, NC
Some proper ducting for that little radiator should also help.

Looking good!

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PostPosted: July 10, 2018, 1:59 pm 
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Homemade WRX wrote:
Some proper ducting for that little radiator should also help.

Looking good!


hey i know you from nasioc

and definitely AWD locost

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PostPosted: July 22, 2018, 6:13 pm 
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Still running hot. Not sure what to do at this point. I did buy a vacuum filling kit for it but doesn't seem to have helped. Maybe run more water or a fan shroud? I can get her to heat up just sitting in the garage. I know moving air is better but I don't know how much of that is going to help. Dual row radiator? Maybe the tune is causing her to run hot?

Thoughts on how to duct the radiator better?

I also lost the clutch today so I had to go home and rebleed the whole thing. I need to monitor that.

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PostPosted: July 22, 2018, 6:32 pm 
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Work to increase the pressure differential across the radiator core. On the inlet side, make sure the air is forced to go through the core and can't sneak around it. From the picture above, it seems like the air's just going to go out the bottom of the car rather than through the core. On the outlet side, it needs to feed to an area of low pressure - in comparison to the pressure on the inlet side of the core.

A magnehelic works great for measuring pressure differential -


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PostPosted: July 22, 2018, 10:47 pm 
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Yeah I plan on blocking the bottom area off but it won't affect the heating up during idle. The At-om uses a dual core which is probably what I will have to go with.

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PostPosted: July 23, 2018, 2:36 pm 
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If it overheats sittings still, with the fan running, then yeah, the radiator's too small. A larger one is always better than dual-core, but sometimes your options are limited.

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PostPosted: July 24, 2018, 9:09 pm 
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Yeah size is an issue.
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I could always do this too with a radiator pointing down
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Think a shroud would help at all?

Maybe the pump isn't strong enough to pump all the way to the front of the car?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Meziere/680/WPK50022/10002/-1

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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 6:47 am 
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That is a tiny radiator but it doesn't look much smaller than your standard honda civic radiator. I dont think it should over heat sitting in a garage as long as the fan is running. You sure the systems burped good?

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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 8:11 am 
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Think a shroud would help at all?
Yep... On my car, I had the fan attached directly to the front of the radiator with no shroud. You could feel the air moving thru the rad. Sort of. Mostly. I built a fan shroud/box on the back side of the radiator which enclosed almost the entire surface of the rad with the fan on top pulling air thru. The same fan that was on the front side. The amount of air moving thru is easily doubled. Temps are lower even on hot days.

I also wonder if you could put a second radiator somewhere at the back of your car, between the tail lights or something. It would not require a big "do-over" of the nose or the plumbing you have already installed in the front, just plumb rad #2 in line in the back. Is that at all do-able with your car? Just thinkin' out loud...

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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 9:01 am 
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Another variable is coolant flow rate. What size are the pipes and how long are they? I ended up adding an electric water pump for suspected low flow.

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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 6:19 pm 
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I went back twenty or so pages to find out the cooling issues. Wright and Zac gave great advice but I guess you installed the spal because it would fit but it is not adequate. Too small and too few amps.

I also saw where you had some cooling issues at speed, so i have some suggestions that should cure both.

First, get one of the following 12 inch fans (no substitutions!):

Derale 18212
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Electri ... 2531244239
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-18212-1 ... 1556220258

Hayden 3812
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-3812-En ... 2552318059

Derale 16924 (listing is wrong, it is a 12" and pulls over 24 amps but requires a shroud to pull)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Cooling ... 2337957769

Suggest you redo the rad mounts to push the rad forward about 1.5" at the bottom and rotate the top forward about 15-20 deg to align the flow path with the airflow coming into the nose and allow for a puller arrangement. Pushing it forward will also reduce the gap to the nose. You'll need to rework the upper nose support of course.

The fan will need a 30 amp relay for high, 20 amp for low or just wire high. Do not just use a toggle. Use 12 or 14 ga wire and yellow terminals.

Second, cut a pice of cardboard to fit snug in the nose in front of the rad, transfer to .040 3003, then pop rivet flanges to pick up holes you will make in the nose supports. Rivet aircraft baffle sealing strips along each side to where they hang off the 3003 by a couple inches so you can bend them forward in the nose. Airflow will seal them to the nose.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... seals5.php

Be sure to reinstall a thermostat (180-195) to speed warm up and maintain engine temp and internal tolerances.

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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 9:34 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I went back twenty or so pages to find out the cooling issues. Wright and Zac gave great advice but I guess you installed the spal because it would fit but it is not adequate. Too small and too few amps.

I also saw where you had some cooling issues at speed, so i have some suggestions that should cure both.

First, get one of the following 12 inch fans (no substitutions!):

Derale 18212
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Electri ... 2531244239
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-18212-1 ... 1556220258

Hayden 3812
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-3812-En ... 2552318059

Derale 16924 (listing is wrong, it is a 12" and pulls over 24 amps but requires a shroud to pull)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Cooling ... 2337957769

Suggest you redo the rad mounts to push the rad forward about 1.5" at the bottom and rotate the top forward about 15-20 deg to align the flow path with the airflow coming into the nose and allow for a puller arrangement. Pushing it forward will also reduce the gap to the nose. You'll need to rework the upper nose support of course.

The fan will need a 30 amp relay for high, 20 amp for low or just wire high. Do not just use a toggle. Use 12 or 14 ga wire and yellow terminals.

Second, cut a pice of cardboard to fit snug in the nose in front of the rad, transfer to .040 3003, then pop rivet flanges to pick up holes you will make in the nose supports. Rivet aircraft baffle sealing strips along each side to where they hang off the 3003 by a couple inches so you can bend them forward in the nose. Airflow will seal them to the nose.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... seals5.php

Be sure to reinstall a thermostat (180-195) to speed warm up and maintain engine temp and internal tolerances.


The fan is set up as a puller and the thermostat is installed

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