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PostPosted: January 7, 2019, 9:37 pm 
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So an update....

I got the whole clutch thing figured out I think. I just rebuilt the master cylinder and it seems to work.

Now I am getting ready to take the whole car apart, do a few more welds (like reinforce the arm mounts) and get her powder coated. Then redo some wiring and put her back together. Not sure if this new oil pan is doing the trick or not with oil starvation.... not sure how to check either. I probably need more time driving her too to really tell.

While the car is apart I plan on sending the computer in for an upgarde... then I can run ethanol, num num num.

Then paint some body work and call her done.... but probably not. Hahahaha.

Having a lot of fun with the new M235i in the mean time.... it stayed stock for 1mo. :D
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Also survived an accident in the bosses car.
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PostPosted: February 5, 2019, 7:05 pm 
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Start my new job at SPC Monday! Its gonna be sweet!

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PostPosted: February 6, 2019, 6:19 am 
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Congratulations! They make some interesting parts.

Replace the oem liquid oil cooler with a thermostat controlled sandwich and air type oil cooler. Put the cooler close to the engine to keep the lines and pressure drop low. This will be much more effective than the liquid type that will only cool to whatever the coolant temp is.

On the clutch hydraulics, does the pedal effort go away or increase when the clutch does not release?I'm guessing you have have braided hose between the master and slave like everything else. It could be the hose is not compatible and is swelling internally, pinching off the flow but this would be a hard pedal. You also may have cooked the slave with the old exhaust routing, boiling the brake fluid which could also damage the slave seals so they are breaking down, making black fluid. Change the seals with a rebuild kit. Add a steel shield above the slave. Flush the lines both ways to ensure there is no debris within that can sometimes block the flow back and forth but again, a blockage would be an increase in pedal pressure.

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PostPosted: July 8, 2019, 8:31 pm 
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So some updates since I finally had some time to work on the car.

First off I noticed I had a broken motor mount (my crappy welds, I was trying to make them really small so that the mating bolts sat flat) so the guys at work lazer cut a new plate and welded it up.
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Once in there I noticed that the turbo housing is right up against the roll tube support bar.
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That sucks and is caused by two things. 1) the B18 has a taller deck height than the B16. 2) the new motor mount is clocked slightly off.

I am able to remove the rear mount and rotate the engine slightly to compensate and it gains me a little. So I guess that will have to do for now.
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Long term I need to figure out what to do with that bar....

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PostPosted: July 8, 2019, 8:40 pm 
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I also took your guys advice and started looking at the radiator mounting for better cooling.

Current
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Maybe new position
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I will need to modify the nose cone mount so that it doesnt go over the radiator and modify the inner nose cone since it hits the radiator end tanks.
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I dont think this will necessarily fix the issue but I wont hurt either. I still need to seal off the bottom of the nose cone and block the upper corners to better force air through the radiator

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PostPosted: August 17, 2019, 4:55 pm 
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Still not driving her... there is still an issue with her getting hot just in the garage. I am going to build a shroud tomorrow to see if that will work :(

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PostPosted: August 17, 2019, 5:37 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I went back twenty or so pages to find out the cooling issues. Wright and Zac gave great advice but I guess you installed the spal because it would fit but it is not adequate. Too small and too few amps.

I also saw where you had some cooling issues at speed, so i have some suggestions that should cure both.

First, get one of the following 12 inch fans (no substitutions!):

Derale 18212
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Electri ... 2531244239
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-18212-1 ... 1556220258

Hayden 3812
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayden-3812-En ... 2552318059

Derale 16924 (listing is wrong, it is a 12" and pulls over 24 amps but requires a shroud to pull)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Derale-Cooling ... 2337957769

Suggest you redo the rad mounts to push the rad forward about 1.5" at the bottom and rotate the top forward about 15-20 deg to align the flow path with the airflow coming into the nose and allow for a puller arrangement. Pushing it forward will also reduce the gap to the nose. You'll need to rework the upper nose support of course.

The fan will need a 30 amp relay for high, 20 amp for low or just wire high. Do not just use a toggle. Use 12 or 14 ga wire and yellow terminals.

Second, cut a pice of cardboard to fit snug in the nose in front of the rad, transfer to .040 3003, then pop rivet flanges to pick up holes you will make in the nose supports. Rivet aircraft baffle sealing strips along each side to where they hang off the 3003 by a couple inches so you can bend them forward in the nose. Airflow will seal them to the nose.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/a ... seals5.php

Be sure to reinstall a thermostat (180-195) to speed warm up and maintain engine temp and internal tolerances.


The fan is set up as a puller and the thermostat is installed


This post was from July 2018. Are you still running the spal? Do you not believe me or what?

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PostPosted: August 17, 2019, 7:22 pm 
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How on Earth can you ever bleed the air trapped in the radiator with the hose connections mid height? I don't see a bleed port. Maybe I missed this a long time ago.

I see a port that looks like a temp sensor in the upper rh corner.

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PostPosted: August 18, 2019, 8:43 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:

This post was from July 2018. Are you still running the spal? Do you not believe me or what?


Yeah I haven't been working on the car or driving it... I've been in a car slump and busy.

No I believe you (hence why I was trying to figure out how to kick the radiator out etc) I am just trying a few simple things first. I made a shroud for my current fan today and if it doesn't work I will by one of the fans you posted and move everything. They hardest part about the fans is fit up. Pushing everything out then figuring out how to mount the fan since it is larger than the radiator. Additionally I would need to modify the nose cone, make a new nose cone mounting bracket, make new radiator mounts and possibly change the hose connection/layout.

I did make a lower nose cone plate to block air flow from going around the radiator though :o
It will still need the silicone seal that you posted.

My gut says the tune isn't quite right causing the car to be a bit lean which will make it hot. I also think it may need an oil cooler (other than the stock one) to help with temps.


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Last edited by mjalaly on August 18, 2019, 8:48 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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PostPosted: August 18, 2019, 8:44 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
How on Earth can you ever bleed the air trapped in the radiator with the hose connections mid height? I don't see a bleed port. Maybe I missed this a long time ago.

I see a port that looks like a temp sensor in the upper rh corner.


I bleed from the temp sensor that you noticed.

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PostPosted: August 19, 2019, 5:59 pm 
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I don't think he needs a bleed. The top row between the tanks leaves very little room for an air pocket. Think of it this way. Imagine every row below the top row was clogged and how the rad would act like a pipe bent into an inverted U.

I'm not sure why the temp sensor is in the rad when we want to operate/gauge off the engine temp. There is a difference in temp, especially with a closed stat.

The shroud may help but it looks like it is not deep enough to prevent blocking flow through the corners and probably will restrict flow at speed. Oems sometimes make shrouds that have poor flow in some areas for clearance reasons but they don't have undersized, thick cores.

To mount the rad, I'd cut the flange off the frame so vertical tabs stick out and drill a hole in each one, then make new L tabs to bolt up to the rad tabs and drill holes in those. Then you can adjust the angle by drilling new holes instead of cutting and welding new frame tabs.

It looks like a lot of the fins are bent that can stop flow. Bugs alone can stop flow on a high efficiency (high fin count) core. If so, use a tiny screw driver to straighten them out.

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PostPosted: August 19, 2019, 6:45 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
'm not sure why the temp sensor is in the rad when we want to operate/gauge off the engine temp. There is a difference in temp, especially with a closed stat.


I measure the coolant temp at the radiator and engine that way I can see when the thermo opens and compare the cooling.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
the shroud may help but it looks like it is not deep enough to prevent blocking flow through the corners and probably will restrict flow at speed. Oems sometimes make shrouds that have poor flow in some areas for clearance reasons but they don't have undersized, thick cores.


I would agree. I put the fan/shroud on and it seems to pulling better but I didn't get a chance to start the engine and test it since the battery a little too low. If it works in the garage I will need to do a test to see if it works while driving.

Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
to mount the rad, I'd cut the flange off the frame so vertical tabs stick out and drill a hole in each one, then make new L tabs to bolt up to the rad tabs and drill holes in those. Then you can adjust the angle by drilling new holes instead of cutting and welding new frame tabs.

Having a hard time picturing this.




Added a pic of the shroud mounted. Not a lot of room in there. A 12" fan is going to sit over the radiator since the edge to the radiator is 12" vertically.

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The race spec atoms have a cool little setup
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PostPosted: August 19, 2019, 7:41 pm 
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Ideally the fan frame is on the edge and not blocking the core. While many are advertised as 12 inch fans, many are not exactly that size overall.

The add on rad should have an airdam in front of it to creat a low pressure area at the bottom of the core to pull air through, plus a pusher fan on top. An air to air cooler would be cleaner with less weight and more effective.


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PostPosted: August 19, 2019, 8:05 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:

The add on rad should have an airdam in front of it to creat a low pressure area at the bottom of the core to pull air through, plus a pusher fan on top. An air to air cooler would be cleaner with less weight and more effective.


You lost me... an air to air cooler like an intercooler? How would that cool coolant?

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PostPosted: August 20, 2019, 5:39 am 
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I meant air to oil cooler.

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