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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 4:44 pm 
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Location: Bijou basin
Yep, the drive shaft will come after I finish the chassis and place the engine height and offset..... if that needs to be done......first and foremost is the static suspension geometry.

I bought a Kirkey seat, cut it down into a bomber seat and had a few pieces of the chassis bent and fitted......
Also bought these Toyo Proxes R888 205/50R15 ....... viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12934&start=0 ...... but have decided to keep it looking old school.
Cheap for such sweat tires


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 7:10 pm 
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Nice project. I didn't expect to see a trike with that subject title.

Be sure to step up the driveshaft OD to prevent whipping at high rpm. It looks as though it will be about the same length as an automobile shaft. A hybrid joint where two legs are much longer than the other two can make a standard weld yoke work with the Honda slip yoke if you can rebuild the joints. A thin shaft won't be good even if it is solid, and would likely be heavier than a stiffer tube.

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My reverse commuter trike build log: viewtopic.php?t=11384
Fitting glass and weatherstripping: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6451
Growing various fruit trees, berry bushes, and wine grapes in zone 7b.


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 11:00 pm 
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Location: Bijou basin
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Nice project. I didn't expect to see a trike with that subject title.

Be sure to step up the driveshaft OD to prevent whipping at high rpm. It looks as though it will be about the same length as an automobile shaft. A hybrid joint where two legs are much longer than the other two can make a standard weld yoke work with the Honda slip yoke if you can rebuild the joints. A thin shaft won't be good even if it is solid, and would likely be heavier than a stiffer tube.


Thank you sIr........
The drive shaft is in the periphery for the moment, but good info to have.......from my research most builders like the JZR in the images have used 2 pillow block bearings to support the shaft to help prevent whipping.... none the less I'm hoping to use the slip yoke between the output shaft and the swing shaft....... if I can.
Image


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 3:55 am 
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Subscribing, this looks sweet.


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 9:02 am 
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My goldwings have the joint forward of the swing pivot, so suspension movment would cause a change in joint height if the aft end of the swing shaft was not spherical.

When the time comes, locate the pillow height so the swing shaft doesn't make contact within the swingarm for the desired range of motion.

I like the 1937 Super Sports, with the split screen and transverse spare within the body work on the back, behind the rear wheel (no body taper).

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My reverse commuter trike build log: viewtopic.php?t=11384
Fitting glass and weatherstripping: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6451
Growing various fruit trees, berry bushes, and wine grapes in zone 7b.


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2011 5:25 pm 
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Helps to keep an eye out on Craigslist for items in need or want of.......Found a set of Zenith wire wheels with tires that will permit me to use the same MC tire on all three wheels..... for the same price I would of paid for one wheel from Zenith.

So, someone please buy these sweat tires from me...... viewtopic.php?f=40&t=12934 before I'm forced to sell my kidney to proceed with the project.

I had an Amigo who use to build Mini Sprints and Midgets stop by to asses my welds and direction.......Got the they ain't pretty......but, it'll do.

It also helps to have images of the human element to gain perspective of ergonomics........Especially when its a big dude.


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2011 10:05 am 
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If you go with bike tires all around, they will need replacing a lot more often than auto tires. Bike tires are much softer, thinner, and usually not radials.

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My reverse commuter trike build log: viewtopic.php?t=11384
Fitting glass and weatherstripping: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6451
Growing various fruit trees, berry bushes, and wine grapes in zone 7b.


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 4:47 pm 
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Yea, I thought of that.....Which is why I bought the Proxes R888's, as they look like MC tires and then go to the MC Darkside on the rear.......http://mcdarksiders.forumotion.com/ ....... running a car tire on an motorcycle wheel.

None the less...... I like the look of of the MC Tire on the racing Moog's and deals can be found ...... http://www.ebay.com/itm/120756164121?ss ... 851wt_1165


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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Wed Nov 16, 2011 5:18 pm 
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I finished welding the front clip on the chassis ..... A little heavier than expected. I can still pick it up..... but damn.


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File comment: More triangulation or just gussets?
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File comment: ?
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 Post subject: Re: HIGH PLAINS DRIFTER
PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2011 7:20 am 
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Nice meticulous tube fitting. If you must add weight, forward is better than aft with a 2f1r.

I've found tires cheaper using google's "shopping" tab.

I've also bought from these guys:
http://www.procycledepot.com/content/p/ ... em=1769410

Here is your tire for about $20 less. Tires ship free if you buy something to get it over $99, like the tube and rim strip.

_________________
My reverse commuter trike build log: viewtopic.php?t=11384
Fitting glass and weatherstripping: viewtopic.php?f=23&t=6451
Growing various fruit trees, berry bushes, and wine grapes in zone 7b.


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