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No opinions on the wing?

I have almost been driving her daily and a few things need fixed or looked at....


• when the tank reads around 1/2 tank, sometimes she will hesitate (starve of fuel?). I am pretty sure i need to drop the fuel pump down so it doesn't have to pull so much. It sits on the top like in the pic.

• alignment! I tried doing it in my garage but i didn't have much luck. The steering wheel is still cocked to one side. She handles just fine but it seems a bit off. I am going to try again this weekend.

• the scoop is working great but she is taped on since I cannot weld aluminum. The intercooler is also probably too large to do any brazing... the heat will dissipate too quickly.

I'm also thinking I need to have a new fuel tank made (not sure if it can be modified and re-welded once fuel has been in it). Once I switch to E85, it will require a lot more fuel which means my tank will empty sooner.

Good things!

• I haven't had any electrical issues since moving that wire to a new pole!
• The "hard to shift" issue has been resolved. Shocking how new tranny fluid and another simple engine mount with make things smooth.
• The new muffler is also working better (even though i paid a shop $100 to cut and move the flange from the old one... the welds and splatter look like crap too)
• The CEL is a false. The computer inst sending out a CEL (and that's why I couldn't find it) its the tablet which is running SDASH that is reading the datalog switch as a CEL when active.

I also plan on getting some go pro video this weekend.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

While lowering the fuel pump is a good idea, it appears that the starvation is due to the dual pickup points. When the tank gets much below full, any sustained cornering will uncover the inboard pickup and then all that the pump will pick up is air.
BTW, I've had no problems with high-pressure pumps located on the top of the tank when pulling their supply for an in-tank surge container.

yes but this is when I just driving around and in addition the the tank has foam in it to help. At half a tank there should still be plenty of fuel.

I do agree that it is not the best design but the shifter has to go through there.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Easy experiment then to remove the right side braided line and cap both ends with AN caps. Drive the same conditions to see if there's any change.

The best solution is a small sump with doors/gates/flaps. Another way (which doesn't work on low tanks) is a sump that hangs down below the tank, deeper than it is wide. I agree with the comment about the dual pickups. If either sucks air then zero fuel will flow from the other. A solution is to have two pumps, one for each side, feeding a separate sump tank, one large enough to run the engine through the duration of any long corner.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

If the issue turns out to be the multiple pickups then another possible solution would be to put a Walbro fuel pickup on each one. They automatically shut off when they are no longer submerged. I used 4 in my un-baffled tank so I never have to worry about starvation in any condition and they've been working great.

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.c ... ckups.html

I would rather have a plastic tank with e85.

If I could find a plastic tank that was configured right I would consider it but that's why I went custom.

After looking at the video, I think I need to cut those roll bars off and make them taller before I power coat the chassis. I reviewed that several times before putting them on so I'm not sure why they look low. My wife said maybe my but got bigger.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I got rid of the break squeal. I ended up adding a chamfer to the front of each pad and adding some CRC disc brake quite. The latter was probably the reason it stopped though.

I did see that the pad isn't wearing at the read edge (front? I don't know how to refer to the front and rear of a pad... maybe not hub edge?)

It looks like the pad is about as inward as I would think it should be. I'm also not sure if it is an actual problem but it's really easy to fix with my design by either taking some material off of the caliper mount or removing some pad material on the mill.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Tis my life.... engine blown again!!

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

That sucks what happened to the engine?

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2015 & 2016 EMod Florida State Autocross Champion
2013 & 2014 DSP Florida State Autocross Champion

Scrap Metal Build Log viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14558

Dunno. I was out on the highway with the wife and all of a sudden it started to loose power. Coolant temps were fine right before that... around 190. Once I stopped her i noticed oil coming out of the main seal, fuel pressure was really high and smoke from the catch can so I'm pretty sure a bearing went.

I won't really know until I tear her apart. That may not happen for a long time. At this point I really just want to get rid of the whole car. Maybe I can donate it.

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I've heard good things about the Holly HydraMat. I've been wanting to try it out.

How about putting a dead-stock engine in it? Should be really reliable and if you choose to sell it, it would make the affair go a lot more smoothly.

FWIW, I know the pain of blowing up an engine and it's one reason why I haven't headed back to the track since...

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

I did try that... it was #3 blown engine.

I just drained the oil and I am measuring about 206in^3 or 3.5 quarts so not a ton, if any, was lost. So it's not like the main seal blew and it ran out of oil. 

oil also looks good and when I ran a magnet through it, not a single piece of metal cams out but that doesn't mean it's not stuck in the pan but you would think something would have come out.

I am wondering if some type of pressure force the main seal out....

I have been checking for leaks, blow by etc after everydrive and nothing has shown up. 

_________________
My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.