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I suggest you add a nice grade 8 flatwasher under the nut to spread the load into the Auminum. Also use deformed style captive nut, not a Nylock. . Have you checked to see that you can fit an open-ended wrench thru that recess?

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Chuck.

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Chucks right. A nut on bare aluminum would be bad.

You could also use a Nordlock washer (McMaster sells them). At least according to their marketing propaganda and the real life presentations I've seen, they're more resistant to loosening from vibration than any locknut.

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-Andrew
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Yeah i didn't update any pics late last night. I have a flat washer in there and there is room for a wrench but the back of the nut sits against the inside wall so that a wrench doesn't need to be used however, I will need to change that if i go with a bigger washer.

I will look at a different nut option since that one is a nylock. Like one of these??



Thanks

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I'll second the suggestion for Nordlock washers. I use them on headers and they stay put. We use them at work to hold on in a high torque application and they work very well.

Picked up a set of 5" Koni 30 series for $120 total for 2 new shocks. Now i will need to paint them black and get two more.

I am trying to find a steering rack that is nice and cheep. Any suggestions?

Those Nordlock washers are pretty cool. I added them in. The next length down on the bolt didn't have enough height to full engage the nut so i went a bit bigger and figured i could trim it down.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I found this really nice PDF from Woodward that goves over EVERYTHING when choosing a steering rack. (ackermann, lenght, etc)

http://www.woodwardsteering.com/images/ ... 064-79.pdf

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

New double radii tubes showed up last week

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Car is going slowly with fam work and all but still progressing. All of the adjustable coilovers and shocks are in but i am still waiting for tubing for the chassis and control arms.

Finally there was a chance to get the machine parts started after fighting the CNC program for a while.
1st to pics are the setup piece and the second is one to be machined (finished).







Hopefully the parts can be wrapped up soon and i can move on to other aspects

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

I did more work trying to finalize the model. I wanted to simplify the forn end for now so that i could make is easier in the garage. Any suggestions here?

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

the 2" tubing came in so i can start chopping a chassis together. The tubing for the arms and triangulation are being shipped now. As for another topic though....

Looking at the pic below, is there a good suggestion on how to attach the rear toe link using the existing steer arm in the rear? think that making a toe arm that connects to the underside of the steer arm and the directly to the control arm would be best but that is a large drop. I could make a new steer arm link too but that is just more time and stuff (money). Any suggestions?

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Seems simple to me, you have a caliper bracket bolted to one side of the upright and to the other side you have a bracket that drops down low enough to mount a spherical joint at the same height as the main lower spherical joint.

Me, I'd rather a toe link to adjust toe and dynamic toe change.

The lca bolt shank should extend as far as practical without the nut bottoming out.

The bolt should be fine thread.

If a nord lock had an od that was the same or less than the nut (which I doubt), and the nut flat was held by the wall of the spindle, the nord lock would serve no purpose because the nut cannot rotate anyway. The nord lock would need to be on the rotating/bolt side, against the head. There is no relative motion on top to work the nord lock.

Nord locks do work well. I've seen them used on many light sport aircraft to hold props on without safety wire.

If you decide to use some other method to lock the bottom bolt, it will still need a load psreading washer under the head so more of the torque distribution goes into the thread stretch.

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I think we are on the same page but correct me if you had something else in mind. I was thinking of do the following... weld one end of the below rod to the arm, have a middle adjustment (like in the pic), and attach the a rod end to the other side like in the last pic.

I cant seem to find the tapered stud though or a CAD model which would help for planning.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Ok, that makes sense but either way you suggest adding a washer under the head of the bolt? Doesn't the safety washer cover that? Or just leave it as is and eliminate the Nord lock all together since it is over kill? I agree with Chuck that there needs to be a washer under the nut regardless since it would be sitting against the bare aluminum other wise.

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My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... 18&t=13096


You can build the most awesome thing in the world but at some point, an 80yr old man in a crx is probably going kick your butt on the track... don't ask me how I know.

Like I wrote.