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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 5:00 pm 
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this should work in place of the expensive autometer one right? If so i can wire two in and monitor from a few spots.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RCPDPRQ/re ... UTF8&psc=1

Autometer one...

http://www.autometer.com/100-psi-pressu ... ducer.html

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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 5:01 pm 
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closed deck, gettin surious in here


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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 5:03 pm 
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i have those cheaper transduscers, they work fine. 0-5v though means 0.5-4.5 0-100psi linear

just dont expect rock steady readings, heres a log from two of them on oil and fuel. fuel i can see being whacky from injectors firing but oil should be more stable i think

https://datazap.me/u/terryjr/new-fpr?lo ... om=148-248


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PostPosted: November 14, 2017, 5:24 pm 
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Looks like a good deal! :thmbsup:

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 2:45 pm 
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Omg! Never ending bulls**t!!

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The filter was on all of the time and it still looks fine so i have no clue how this happended. You can't rebuild the turbo.... you have to purchase a center section through Garrett's trade in program for $775.

And!!!!
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the oil squiter housing broke when I was putting a plug in it. WTF! The only thing I can think to do now is to weld that hole shut. I have no clue how someone will get in there without taking the bottom end apart though

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 3:21 pm 
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Is there scoring on the compressor housing?

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 4:00 pm 
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Nope. It looks like it never passed through.

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 4:09 pm 
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That's really stinks man.i Ifeel your pain. That's a billet wheel, there's no reason I can think of that you can't get a new wheel and rebalance it. Some ball bearing turbos can't be rebuilt but unless you have shaft play you should be able to fix that one.

As far as oil port, can you chase threads and do a different plug. You really don't want anything getting in that passage of it goes straight to a bearing.


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 4:21 pm 
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None of the shops I emailed except one would rebuild it and it's $650 so I might as well get a new core. Garrett doesn't sell the wheel either so any rebuild is done with an aftermarket one.

Yeah I probably can re tap with something else but I am afraid of getting debris in there.

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 5:00 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
None of the shops I emailed except one would rebuild it and it's $650 so I might as well get a new core. Garrett doesn't sell the wheel either so any rebuild is done with an aftermarket one.

Yeah I probably can re tap with something else but I am afraid of getting debris in there.


I've rebuilt journal bearing turbos from turbines and wheels off the net. Worked fine, I didn't have it balanced afterwards so mileage would probably been cut in half or less. Most diesel turbo rebuilders will balance. There's a place called 6 Star Speed that rebuilds turbos too. They specialize in subie turbos but they pretty much all the same

Rightly loosely on compressor wheel nuts


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 5:07 pm 
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It's a ball bearing so you can't do it.

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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 5:19 pm 
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Well that stinks.


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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 8:22 pm 
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I fixed the damaged thread then spent another hour getting the oil pan to fit! (The damn bolt in windage baffal doesn't clear the pick up)

To fix the squirter port I noticed that there is a port on each side of the block that plugs these so I could actually reach in there. I put a clean oilly rag under the hole and tapped it for a 1/4-20 helicoil. Added a screw with some red loctite and it's all good.
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PostPosted: November 24, 2017, 9:15 pm 
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One down.


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PostPosted: November 25, 2017, 8:08 pm 
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terryjr wrote:
I didn't have it balanced afterwards so mileage would probably been cut in half or less. Most diesel turbo rebuilders will balance.


I've had a couple balanced at Arkansas Turbo in Little Rock. They charged me $20, but it was a while back.

They have a cute little desktop balancer, looks like a 1:10 scale model of my Stewart Warner machine.

mjlaly, what's the model number of that turbo?


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