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PostPosted: November 25, 2017, 9:36 pm 
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Gtx2867r

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PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 8:54 am 
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I hear mostly good things about kinugawa. I could only find generic wheels from China, Mamba and this one. But this one has extended tips like my Borg wheel. Supposedly flows a lil extra.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Billet-Com ... 3d436c516b

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PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 7:04 pm 
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If the ground-up aluminum from the compressor wheel got into the engine, it needs rebuilding.

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PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 8:09 pm 
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New engine so it's all good.

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PostPosted: November 26, 2017, 8:11 pm 
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terryjr wrote:
I hear mostly good things about kinugawa. I could only find generic wheels from China, Mamba and this one. But this one has extended tips like my Borg wheel. Supposedly flows a lil extra.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Billet-Com ... 3d436c516b


I'm not sure if that's a good idea. I really wouldn't know it was the same as the real gtx wheel. Also, most people won't touch anything with the bb.

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PostPosted: November 27, 2017, 2:10 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
terryjr wrote:
I hear mostly good things about kinugawa. I could only find generic wheels from China, Mamba and this one. But this one has extended tips like my Borg wheel. Supposedly flows a lil extra.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Billet-Com ... 3d436c516b


I'm not sure if that's a good idea. I really wouldn't know it was the same as the real gtx wheel. Also, most people won't touch anything with the bb.


Your call. On the brightside you can probably still get a good penny for the chra even with the damaged wheel, as long as bearings are good.

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PostPosted: March 12, 2018, 9:03 pm 
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Finally an update... new job long hours.

I was able to get the turbo rebuilt and balanced for $350 So i am going to finish up the engine and get her tuned

I'm just waiting on the lower timing cover and a few gaskets to arrive.

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PostPosted: March 13, 2018, 8:29 am 
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glad you found a better alternative to a completely new turbo

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PostPosted: April 22, 2018, 4:26 pm 
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Ugh! I had to modify the oil pan again!! The bolts and nuts wouldn't sit flat since it is so close to flange. It better not leak!

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I did find a home for the oil pressure sensor so that I can monitor it real time.

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Now I just need to find a home for the fan switch since the v18 doesn't have the same spot for it on the block compared to the b16

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PostPosted: June 4, 2018, 1:58 pm 
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at least if it leaks back there you'll know it isn't the rear main seal.

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PostPosted: June 4, 2018, 8:41 pm 
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Yeah the oil pan is also really close to the shifter so that will need to be modified.

I signed up for a track day Saturday but my tuning shop is moving location so I doubt I will get the car running by then..... bummer


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PostPosted: June 5, 2018, 7:36 am 
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dry sump pan should get ya some extra clearnece :wink:

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PostPosted: June 5, 2018, 9:55 am 
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mjalaly wrote:
...I did find a home for the oil pressure sensor so that I can monitor it real time.

Mounting things off a threaded adaptor on a vibrating engine can cause the threads to crack - brass threads are the worst. It's always best to have only the hose attached to the engine and to have any sensors remote-mounted.

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PostPosted: June 5, 2018, 3:02 pm 
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Small block Chevrolets have the oil pressure sender at the back of the block, under the distributor. It's a real hassle to get at in some bodies.

When the sender on my Malibu died I used a 10" grease gun hose, which was something like $3 at the parts store, to make it easier to get to. The standard grease gun thread is 1/8-27 NPT and screwed right into the block; I used a brass female/female coupler to join the sender to the hose, then zip tied it to the firewall.

It was more or less in the nature of an experiment. The hose was rated to 1000 PSI, but not mention of compatibility with hot engine oil. That was fifteen years ago and it's still going fine. I know from experience that ten years is about the limit for the usual 1/8" nylon lines before they turn hard and crackly.


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PostPosted: June 5, 2018, 5:52 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
mjalaly wrote:
...I did find a home for the oil pressure sensor so that I can monitor it real time.

Mounting things off a threaded adaptor on a vibrating engine can cause the threads to crack - brass threads are the worst. It's always best to have only the hose attached to the engine and to have any sensors remote-mounted.


IIRC, my '87 Aerostar went thru 3 oil pressure senders. It was screwed directly into the block. It didn't fail due to broken threads. I think the vibration killed the internal parts. My MG oil pressure line had a hose going to a copper pipe, then to the mechanical oil pressure gauge. That flex line failed, dropping a line of oil down the road underneath my car. Fortunately, I saw the gauge drop before any damage occurred.

Based on personal experience, there is no absolute foolproof method of monitoting oil pressure.

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