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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 9:38 pm 
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I thought about this a bit more and taking all of your ideas into consideration. The 1/2 size civic radiator is a dual core like the At-om has and mine is not. I am thinking that I can do one of these... sideways of course....
https://www.google.com/shopping/product ... o0QgjYIhAQ

I think that with the fan that MV8 suggested would be a good start. I can also tilt the radiator forward to help. If that does not work then I will install an additional pump.

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PostPosted: July 25, 2018, 9:43 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
Another variable is coolant flow rate. What size are the pipes and how long are they? I ended up adding an electric water pump for suspected low flow.


The pipes are either 1.125 or 1.25 and there are a few 90° turns in there. Total length for each side of the radiator is probably 5 or 6ft


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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 12:02 am 
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Way back when I was reading and looking at pics of your coolant plumbing, I said to myself, "Self, I hope he doesn't have overheating issues by using that size of coolant tubes in a configuration of that length".
You will get flow rate loss with every bend and with length. The way 'line loss' was explained in layman's terms to me when I worked in the pipeline industry is as follows: take a 12" piece of 1/4" plastic tube and blow through it, pretty easy. Now take 5 feet of that 1/4" tubing and try blow through it, your cheeks and eyes will bulge out, not to mention the arse pucker factor.
Just a thought - you may have to boost line pressure on the return from the rad with another pump. I could be way out to lunch or not.
There are greater minds than mine on this forum that can calculate this kind of stuff.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 8:46 am 
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but even 1 1/4" tubes shouldnt overheat sitting in garage, running the track hard maybe. Theres a simpler issue. I still think theres air in the system

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 2:27 pm 
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Yeah I am going to try to rebleed again. The vacuum setup should have worked but maybe not.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 6:04 pm 
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The rad seller should provide the thickness of the core which is what your after rather than more rows. However, more rows tend to be better in a high pressure coolant system because wider tube rows tend to spread from the pressure and close the gap between rows, reducing the air flow.

Here is a 4 row rad that appears to be 62mm thick or about 2.5" for only $115 (might want to ask before buying what 62mm refers to). There are 2 rows that indicate they are only 1.5" thick (second link).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/62mm-4Row-Core ... 2168105601

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-ROW-FULL-ALU ... Desc=0%7C0

Thicker makes ducting more important because a thicker core is more restrictive. becuase the air is preheated by the row before it, each additional row is less efficient but it is still significant so use as thick a core/ as many rows as you can find.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 8:47 pm 
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My radiator is 2.75-3" thick.

Right now I just want to throw money at it and see if anything works. I haven't driven the car since June 8th and it's pretty depressing. I have spent a week not ordering anything so now I will end up going another week just waiting for new parts to show up.

It could be the timing in the tune for all I know.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 9:15 pm 
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Not in tune. Do you have another rad and some hose you can set something up back by motor to troubleshoot? I can let mine idle for 20 minutes before reaching 200. Then fans kick on for about 60 seconds and back down to 185 5 minutes or so.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 9:32 pm 
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Nothing like that. Maybe something from an auto parts store.

The hard part is that I don't have any way of tell if there is air in the system or not.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 9:41 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
Nothing like that. Maybe something from an auto parts store.

The hard part is that I don't have any way of tell if there is air in the system or not.


If there's air it won't flow. So it rads at 200 then its flowing fine. If rads cool or like 150 when motors 230 then you have a flow issue

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 9:53 pm 
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Was also curious how you have lines run. I don't know Honda's but I know subaru's and they have separate ports on water pump for heater core. Those lines circulate water through block when thermostats closed. If you deleted those lines then you may not be getting heat to the thermostat itself

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 9:54 pm 
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You can see the engine warm up, then the radiator warm up after the thermo opens. They match but the radiator cannot bring the engine temp down and it takes a while for the rad to cool down if at all. Maybe I should track temps by time. This is all while reving the engine too. It's not just sitting idle.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 9:56 pm 
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terryjr wrote:
Was also curious how you have lines run. I don't know Honda's but I know subaru's and they have separate ports on water pump for heater core. Those lines circulate water through block when thermostats closed. If you deleted those lines then you may not be getting heat to the thermostat itself


I just reviewed that an it looks fine.

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 10:22 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
You can see the engine warm up, then the radiator warm up after the thermo opens. They match but the radiator cannot bring the engine temp down and it takes a while for the rad to cool down if at all. Maybe I should track temps by time. This is all while reving the engine too. It's not just sitting idle.


Ok. Then I'm on board with needing more airflow through rad if it's getting hot. At operating temp I can not set my hand on radiator. You got any of those bounce house blowers?

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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 10:40 pm 
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terryjr wrote:
Ok. Then I'm on board with needing more airflow through rad if it's getting hot. At operating temp I can not set my hand on radiator. You got any of those bounce house blowers?


No just a leaf blower and it doesn't do anything.

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