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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 6:42 am 
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
and your in Denver, so your already at a 20% disadvantage on airflow

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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 10:13 am 
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Ducting will make a huge difference at speed but if it won't stay cool in the garage then something is up. I'm using the half size civic rad in my car (50mm thick) with 1.25" coolant pipes. Back when I had no ducting and a really poor fan it was still adequate for most daily driving, idling, and would even make it through most autocrosses without overheating. It sounds like you still have an air lock somewhere in the system. If you can, also try and minimize the number of tight bends in the system.


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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 11:04 am 
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Without going back through your entire build thread, do you have a drawing on the entire cooling system? I run a turbo K24 and have never run into an air bubble issue, but it's probably because I run bleeder lines from both the top of the radiator and the highest point in the cooling system. Both bleeds are run back to a header tank, where the air can separate out and go to the overflow tank.

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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 11:13 am 
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KB58 wrote:
Without going back through your entire build thread, do you have a drawing on the entire cooling system? I run a turbo K24 and have never run into an air bubble issue, but it's probably because I run bleeder lines from both the top of the radiator and the highest point in the cooling system. Both bleeds are run back to a header tank, where the air can separate out and go to the overflow tank.


I tried lookign last night. I saw a tank that looked like a header tank, similar to the tank turbo subarus use to help bleed air bubble from steam cause by a hot turbo.

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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 2:43 pm 
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Location: Denver Co
Yeah I think at this point it makes sense to buy another radiator and bigger fan

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PostPosted: July 27, 2018, 6:51 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
My radiator is 2.75-3" thick.


I thought it looked thick and more than one row, but cores are usually thinner than the tanks. If the one you have is the same size overall (width by height) as the civic, then I would not change it.

The fan should cure both problems but then it will run all the time. Ideally you want ducting but the fan should get you going for now. Here is a rough idea what I'm talking about with the ducting (pic).

You may be having other contributing issues but the weak link by far is the fan.


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PostPosted: July 28, 2018, 5:52 pm 
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Thanks Guys
I measured through my core and its 2.25" thick.

I am going to try to rebleed the system tomorrow old school way. I will also try to make shroud. If that does not work then I am going to order a rad and fan. Worst case is I use both radiators.

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PostPosted: July 28, 2018, 10:22 pm 
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Your setup of mounting the pulling fan to the surface of the rad is only using the fan dia's area of the radiator, not the full rad area. 2nd, fans are not very efficient at moving air when the fan blade is close to the rad. I'd build a full shroud to mount the fan off the face of the rad by about 2-3 inches allowing it to draw air thru the entire area

I had an '86 Golf that I thought handled a rectangular radiator rather uniquely IMO. The fan was spaced a few inches off the rad but a full shroud funneled the air of the full surface of the rad into the fan. But the interesting part was there were rubber flaps in the flat area of the shroud. They acted like 1-way air valves. When at standing still with the fan running, the flaps would be closed allowing the fan to draw all the air thru the entire rad face. When at speed, the air pressure would open the flaps and allow more air to pass than the fan alone would allow.


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PostPosted: July 28, 2018, 10:54 pm 
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Yup, that's the problem with a fan shroud. It maximizes cooling when the fan is on, like when stopped, but hinders it when moving. It's all a compromise.

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PostPosted: July 30, 2018, 1:35 pm 
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Chuck sez-
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I'd build a full shroud to mount the fan off the face of the rad by about 2-3 inches allowing it to draw air thru the entire area
And now that he reminds me, the shroud I built on the Slotus puts the fan just about 2.5 inches off the radiator. I wuz accidentally smart on that one. It don't happen often... :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: July 30, 2018, 2:27 pm 
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So results from the drain, fill and rebleed were promising but inconclusive. I spent sometime just bleeding and pumping hoses and I couldn't get it to heat up in the garage. I turned it off restarted it and did more pumping to make sure I got all the air out and it started get hot but not that bad. I need to drive it to know for sure. The other issue is that it wasn't that hot out outside.

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PostPosted: July 30, 2018, 8:28 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Chuck sez-
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I'd build a full shroud to mount the fan off the face of the rad by about 2-3 inches allowing it to draw air thru the entire area
And now that he reminds me, the shroud I built on the Slotus puts the fan just about 2.5 inches off the radiator. I wuz accidentally smart on that one. It don't happen often... :mrgreen:



Smart? Even a broken clock is right twice a day :roll: JK, JD.

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PostPosted: July 30, 2018, 11:23 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:

Smart? Even a broken clock is right twice a day :roll: JK, JD.


But if you keep messing with it, it's never right.

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PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 2:23 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Even a broken clock is right twice a day

Well slap me silly and spank me with a rubber hose! I thought I was looking at the clock twice a day at always the same times! :rofl:
Good one rx7, another saying to put in the memory bank.
Edit: I hope the heat issue gets resolved :cheers:

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PostPosted: July 31, 2018, 7:24 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Smart? Even a broken clock is right twice a day
Geeze, tough crowd in here tonight!!! :mrgreen:

horchoha wrote:
Well slap me silly and spank me with a rubber hose!
Perry, what you do in the shop at night or on weekends is entirely your business. :ack: (Uhhh, is there video? Asking for a friend...)

Meanwhile, weren't we workin' on a radiator or something??? :mrgreen:


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