LocostUSA.com

"other side" threw me off but i got you now. I will look and see if there will be issues doing it that way.

Use stainless washers that are more noble than the upright, at the nut and the upper spherical washer. Also use wheel bearing grease on the shank and seats (because it is nonconductive) and antiseize grease for the threads.

Maybe i can get some black oxide coated or passivated ones and bypass the grease (i think we have both of them here at the office). If they didn't put that salt stuff into the ice melt here in Colorado, i probably wouldn't even have to worry about it. But i should be replacing the hardware enough (maintenance) that it shouldn't be too much of an issue.

Maybe you could add a single bracket on the frame at the rear LCA mount and use a single bolt to hold the toe link &LCA. With the other end of the toe link to the bottom side of your bracket, it looks like it would be nearly parallel with the LCA.

I posted this last weekend but it looks like it never showed up so I must have done something wrong.

I got rear suspension box completed with help from a buddy last weekend (thanks a bunch Huff!). It took approx 3 hours to complete mainly due to aligning the angled supports and trying to figure out a way to keep the coped ends aligned. I solved the coping issues my making a center line marking tool and then adding a mark on the tube notcher that lined up with the center line so that when the tube was flipped the copes were in line.

A couple of the angled tubes had to be tacked, taken off and redone a few times to get them right. It seems that the angle gauge will read differently depending on where you place it on the tube. Additionally, tacking the tubes was causing them to twist so the upper tubes wouldn't line up. I don't know how to resolve this. Otherwise everything else went pretty smooth and I can hopefully start on the front suspension box this weekend but that is going to require some templates and grinding to get the notches correct so we will see how it goes.

and my table is too short..

You started a new thread called "Chassis build" and put them there.

Please find yourself a more descriptive thread title. Threads name "Chassis Build" or worse "New Build" just aren't user friendly on a site with more then 10,000 threads... Thanks.

If it can be changed to "V-Tec Open Wheel Exo Build" that would be great. I cant figure out a way to do it.

Much more descriptive now.

Oh, is that what you're building???

Funny and yes. To be more descriptive.... open wheel At-omish design with a B20V-Tec with an additional b16 turbo (alternate engine) MR2.

I love you guys and i will be better at more descriptive headings.

The header was clear and then I read this and I'm confused again.

He's obviously building one of these- And check out the shoes the guy behind the car is wearing!!! Those Italians have style, don't they?

That's only a single seater and I don't have shoes that cool

So here is what got done yesterday. The 4 double angle tubes were really really hard to fit up but it is done.





I used Kiki's method on these since I could not figure out a way to cope them with a chop saw or a hole saw. It worked out really well and save a lot of time. Just made a flat pattern in SolidWorks, printed it to scale and taped it on.



So I am not sure what the next best approach to the chassis should be. I think i need to make the a arm jigs since the bearing housings will be done next week. Add the top two main tubes or fit the engine?? Dunno. Any buddy have a good approach on sequence of fab?

Are these steering racks any good for street use? Is the 12:1 ratio quick enough?

http://secure.chassisshop.com/partdetail/C42-339/