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PostPosted: June 19, 2017, 11:39 am 
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I had a not so great outing with the car this weekend.

Pretty much on the first drive the car started overheating. It looked suspicious since the coolant was coming out of the fill cap and in conclusion: I didn't put the cap on all the way. Dumb. No overheating on the way home so I think that was fixed.

Bigger issue... The car started driving really weird on they way home. I felt it on the way out, at speed, like the rear toe needed to be adjusted so no big deal right? Yeah it was a big deal. It started to drive really bad. I got her home, put her on jack stands and holy crap! both wheels were moving quite a bit. I looked and the toe links were super tight so I took the wheels off. Both wheels had loose lugs! Not only that but a few studs were unpressed from the hubs too. One side was so bad that the hub tried to pull its self from the bearing (see below about the CV). See the pics of the two hubs and you can see one is not seated all of the way.

The axle also needs the CV replaced since that nut came loose and chewed up the threads on the end. This was my fault for not staking the nut. I was taking it apart too many time with the engine in and out so i didn't stake it.

I have pretty much said i am done with those bearings (i hated those bearings anyway since they have always had a small bit of play), hubs, studs and order all new stuff. The issue is that I don't know what actually caused the problem. I do know that the hub pulling out the bearing was was a result of the either the studs coming loose or the lugs not being tight in conjunction with the CV issue. I am going with the studs being the issue since they were never really pressed into the hub hard and I always torque those lugs down to spec.

My bigger concern is that the wheels might have been damaged and I don't know how to fixed them. The inner lug seats are beat up and i don't know if I will ever be able to get the lugs tight or trust them.

So what do you guys think in general and more so what do you guys think about the wheels? I am wondering if a wheel repair shop could fix them. I cant seem to find them either. koning Wideopen 4x100 R15x8. hummm.....

On the good side!!!! I got to drive the car and she felt great!!! That turbo is sweet and it spools really fast.

I kind of feel like I am dropping the ball and not seeing deep enough into these things initially to prevent the failures. But like my buddy said, you built an f'n car with all kinds of custom stuff, this [PooPoo] is going to happen until its all sorted. He said he is still sorting stuff on their race cars that have been running for several years with a team and several engineers. It made me feel better but still.... :BH:


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File comment: hub not seated
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PostPosted: June 19, 2017, 5:20 pm 
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That sucks, but at least you made it home. Could have been worse. I had a wheel come off my pickup last winter after I had changed out the wheel studs and I didn't press the studs in. I just stalled out my 1/2" impact with some crap lug nuts and then neglected to retorque them. Here's how mine came to rest on the highway, about the only way it could have turned out better is if the wheel hadn't come off at all.

Image

How tight do you torque your wheel nuts? I would guess that it might not have been enough to fully seat them. If you don't have a press, you can use a hammer to fully seat them too, otherwise known as the swing press.
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PostPosted: June 19, 2017, 8:08 pm 
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The studs were fully seated for sure but it felt like the press was too light at the time. I didn't want to question the mfg though. This time I will make sure they go in good and right.

It also looks like they make strep inserts to fix the lug holes so I am checking to see if someone local can do it.

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PostPosted: July 1, 2017, 9:14 pm 
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I took her out for a drive today. She ran fine (apart from some hesitation I think in the tune) but she started to slowly run hot after about 20min. All highway driving. I not sure why she is doing that or how to correct it. The only thing I can think of is try to vacuum pull the antifreeze in somehow and or try a different fan.

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PostPosted: July 1, 2017, 10:18 pm 
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Also, probably should make a water manometer and measure the front-to-back pressure differential of the radiator.

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PostPosted: July 2, 2017, 11:45 am 
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I'm going to try to make a coolant vacuum fill tool using a rubber plug some fittings and a vacuum pump.

I also want to flip the cooling fan to the back of the radiator but that means I need to find a smaller one.

I'm not quite sure how to set up a manometer so some thoughts on how to do that would be great.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2017, 10:29 am 
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this is the fan i am suing now and it says 1000cfm but who knows if it is actually flowing that
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T3TK3EW/re ... UTF8&psc=1

I don't remember having this issue before so i think there is still something going on. Later today I plan on flushing the system and attempt to vacuum pull the coolant in.

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PostPosted: July 3, 2017, 1:06 pm 
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Make sure the fan is rotating the right direction and no air bypasses the rad. Russ

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PostPosted: July 3, 2017, 2:33 pm 
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trialsmangasgas wrote:
Make sure the fan is rotating the right direction and no air bypasses the rad. Russ


yeah that's all good and i don't remember this being an issue before either so i need to look at a few things. The first making sure there is no air in the system.

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PostPosted: July 4, 2017, 1:04 pm 
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If you're on the highway you shouldn't need a fan to keep it cool. A couple clear tubes with coloured water to make it easier to see the level would tell you about the pressure differential across the rad. Have the end of one in front of the rad and the other tube end behind it, then both of the other ends where you can see them while driving. Fill the tubes to the same level with water, then go for a drive. The difference in water height between the tubes will be your differential pressure across the radiator. To make it easier you could mark the tubes in say 1" increments and use a GoPro to record your measurements.
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PostPosted: July 4, 2017, 4:58 pm 
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Yeah I'm not quite sure how well that would work but I will try that if the vacuum fill doesn't work. I can test it by seeing if it warms up in the garage like last time. I also decided to replace the thermostat since I will be draining the whole system anyway. It should be opening at 170° and I'm not quite sure if it was. I can also do a pressure test with the fill port that I made.

Worst case is I pay the $350 and have a dual pass radiator made.


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PostPosted: July 5, 2017, 12:49 am 
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KB58 wrote:
Also, probably should make a water manometer and measure the front-to-back pressure differential of the radiator.


Not a bad idea at all. Sometimes airflow is non-intuitive.

Tractor Supply or similar farm supply stores have 1/8" clear vinyl tubing for cheap.


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PostPosted: July 5, 2017, 11:05 am 
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Worst case is I pay the $350 and have a dual pass radiator made.


If your driving normal speeds your engine should have normal cooling requirements. Once you get into using boost and making a lot of power cooling requirements would grow. So don't get a special radiator yet, you need the base setup to work as well as possible to start with. Good luck.

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PostPosted: July 5, 2017, 11:57 am 
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yeah i just need to get in there today, drain the system, vacuum and refill.

I also have a torn boot that threw CV grease all over the back of the tranny. That took a while to clean up and its nasty too! Now have to pull that all apart and take the axle to the CV shop unless i use one of those off the self repair boots.

lots to do....

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PostPosted: July 5, 2017, 12:18 pm 
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mjalaly wrote:
Yeah I'm not quite sure how well that would work but I will try that if the vacuum fill doesn't work. I can test it by seeing if it warms up in the garage like last time. I also decided to replace the thermostat since I will be draining the whole system anyway...

Ya know... are you using the OEM thermostat housing? I bought an aftermarket one and had all sorts of overheating issues. Turns out that the kit I bought wasn't intended to be run with a thermostat! After figuring that out I put the OEM thermostat housing back on and all the temperature issues went away.

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