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 Post subject: SRT-4 Middy
PostPosted: November 23, 2006, 10:57 pm 
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Joined: November 20, 2006, 8:59 pm
Posts: 91
Hi, I'm new to the forum, and definitely glad I found it! Lots of great information here. My name is Tim, and I'm from Michigan.

I've been planning a car build for a couple months now, and I think I've narrowed it down to a "locust style", Dodge SRT-4 powered Middy. I'm aiming for 1,200 pounds, and around 275 whp to start. I'm not very far into the design process though, since I don't have any experience building cars (yet :wink: ), but I have a pretty good concept sketch that I'd like to show you for some constructive criticism. Thanks for your input.

-Tim

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PostPosted: November 23, 2006, 11:00 pm 
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Oh, by the way. I've ordered a few books to gain some knowledge to help the design come along. I got Race Car Engineering, Chassis Engineering, The Metal Fabricator's Handbook, and Fiberglass and Composite Materials. All off Amazon for less than $50. :wink: If there are any more that you would suggest, let me know. Thanks again.

-Tim

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PostPosted: November 24, 2006, 5:04 am 
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Locostering Information Liaison
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Joined: August 17, 2005, 1:30 am
Posts: 2403
Location: So CALIFORNIA
Buy KB58's book when it come out early 2007-ish as far as I know it is the only Middy build book available (or soon to be available, no I don't get a kickback but I am waiting for it too).

Several builders have done great middy projects.....
KB58
Steve Grabber
Meerkat (spelling?)

look up...
Mojo
Mongoose

Greenmark** (sorry I forgot his user ID) has discussed the idea of building a universal kit based on the Neon/Srt4 type car.

Any new idea needs to under go several stages of design. You look on track to designing a good build...you donor is relatively cheap and available and should have a good supply of go-fast/go-faster parts.

Chetcpo maybe of some help here too (he is a smart guy and owner of this site).

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PostPosted: November 24, 2006, 4:34 pm 
michigan ehh
that's cool maybe our locosts willl run into each other when mine gets started in a bout a gazillion years :?


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PostPosted: November 24, 2006, 9:49 pm 
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Joined: November 20, 2006, 8:59 pm
Posts: 91
Good to see another "builder" from the "Great White North" :lol: Hopefully I'll be starting my build this spring... as soon as we get our barn built and all of our crap out of the garage.

Just as a side note, does anyone think 250+ hp is outrageous in such a light car? I hear a lot of people happy with the stock, or lightly modified Miata powerplant about the same weight, but with little over 100 hp. I'm aiming for pretty stellar performance numbers though, with enough tire I'm hoping for a low 3 second 0-60. :wink: Oh, and 1.1+ g's. Should be a peppy little car.

- (oh no, I think I'm crazy) Tim 8)

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 Post subject: Build source material(s)
PostPosted: November 25, 2006, 9:52 pm 
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Joined: September 30, 2006, 12:20 am
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Location: winston-salem, nc
Tim,

In addition to the suggestions already made, you may find some information contained in the McBearen thread on Metalmeet.com helpful as well.

You can either google or yahoo 'McBearen' for links to the thread.

Dick Bear

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PostPosted: December 7, 2006, 11:12 pm 
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Posts: 91
Well, due to resent happenings, it looks like my project will be shelved for a while unless cash starts falling from the sky. :lol: I was thinking I would give up a little karting to start my build, but now it's looking like I'll be doing a little MORE karing and delaying my build. Thanks for all of the input, I'll be around, and hopefully I'll have something to show for it in a couple years. :roll:

-Tim

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PostPosted: December 7, 2006, 11:22 pm 
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Quote:
Just as a side note, does anyone think 250+ hp is outrageous in such a light car?


YES! Sounds outrageously fun, just keep in mind that improper application of the right foot can make it outrageously dangerous too....judicious application as appropriate (my recommendation).

Sorry Dick, I sure didn't mean to forget your build....

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PostPosted: December 9, 2006, 6:45 pm 
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Well, finally made a decision...

The build is back on. I'm hoping to finish the design over the winter and start construction ASAP in the spring.

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PostPosted: December 12, 2006, 10:51 pm 
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Engine selection may have changed. If I can find any weights on the two drivetrains, one option would be the Mitsubishi 4G63 turbo or the Nissan SR20DET (as found in the Pulsar GTIR), possibly mated to an early 90's Sentra tranny. Any input would be good. The upside to the SR20 is that there are multiple sources to get an entire half-cut, giving me a radiator, ECU and wiring harness, intercooler, transmission, shifter assembly, etc. And being the holy grail for Nissan tuners, the aftermarket is endless.

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PostPosted: December 17, 2006, 1:23 am 
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THE SR20DET IS ALUMINUM!!!! "Ding-ding-ding", we have a winner!

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PostPosted: June 12, 2007, 10:49 am 
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Joined: August 16, 2005, 11:55 pm
Posts: 27
the GTI-R SR20DET came with a top mount inteercooler that mount easily on a middy and give next to no lags.. even combine with 4 throttle bodies... great engine!

it bolt to an early sentre ser or infinity G20 or NX2000 ( they all came with the SR20DE non turbo engine. You can contact Jim Wolf ( i dont koe the exact adress for performance, maintenance and conversion parts. they have remap ecu and MAF upgraded along with clutch upgrade.

for your engine choice, all the 3 you have stated are great. The drwaw back of the great SR20DET are that some parts cant be add at the dealer ( but Jim wolf stock them) and have some year already. but an excellent engine. the mitsubishi is also great, and you can even found a local cheap rusted out car with a running engine to start your project. you can found a better engine if need to fairly cheaply or erbuild the one you have. i heard that early ( first gen) atre better with the 4 bolt main bearing.

the srt4 are fairly cheap if i remember, but re fairly new. they may be harder to fit due to OBD2 emissions systems but a mopar stage 2 upgrade wich bump the engine from 227 hp to 260+ if i remember right.
later ones a LSD diff which would be great in your little car because you probably will be looking for traction!

those engine are great because they are turboed. the lag is what i hate from them, but with the power weight ratio you'll have, they should not take a long time pooling up. especially the GTIR with a gt28rs ( aka disco potato)

you can always install a 2 stage boost controlle to have 2 boost setting for normal driving ( read hard) and spirited ( read really hard...)

good luck with your project!


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PostPosted: June 12, 2007, 11:55 am 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
Posts: 6093
Location: SoCal
How will you get air to the intercooler?

Oh, and just 'cause an engine's aluminum, it doesn't mean it's necessarily light. Try very hard to weigh it first.

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Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


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PostPosted: June 12, 2007, 1:13 pm 
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Joined: August 16, 2005, 10:29 am
Posts: 1076
Location: Alberta, Canada
The iron block CA18DET is a little lighter than the aluminum SR20DET.


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PostPosted: June 12, 2007, 4:06 pm 
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Joined: April 23, 2006, 8:26 pm
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Location: SoCal
And yes, if you haven't started in on the design, be sure to pick up a copy of my book, in sig! It'll really, really help with your layout and design. Remember, I've "been there done that", and all the info is in the book. It'll save you time AND money. Really.

(And it stops hair loss, makes you handsome, rich, and oddly attractive to hot babes.)

Oh, and Jim Wolf is in El Cajon, CA, not far from me: http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://www.midlana.com/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains, http://www.kimini.com/book_info/


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