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Hey everyone, new member here. I’m just starting to get parts together for a new build as the title says. Here is what I’m planning....
‘46 Willy’s CJ2a
Front engine-ZX10r
Rear Transaxle-‘79 Porsche 924 snailshell (this was to save the need for a reverse solution and a diff)
Full custom frame and floor- likely going to build it as a unibody
Ideally a pushrod setup

What I’m trying to figure out now, is what to use for uprights. I’d like to use something like the Solstice units, but I’m not sure if i can find a hub that could accept the Porsche cv, or if i can get a cv to work with both? Something readily available and not requiring too much customization would be nice, but I’m likely getting custom shafts already or shortening what I have. I could probably graft the two cv’s together too, if no other option could work.

I know this doesn’t exactly fit the traditional locost build, but many of the same components can be used in this build.

My transmission might change now too, due to availability in my area. That unit looked to be the lightest, but I may now have to go with a fwd longitudinal transaxle from a Passat or Audi.

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Anyone know the length of one of those Passat fwd transaxles? If I went that route, I need to be sure the length past the cv shafts out the back is not more than about 18” to keep it tucked into the Jeep body. Those are likely going to be easier to adapt to an aluminum upright, but I don’t know that for sure yet. I was hoping to use a Porsche unit so it had a torque tube instead of a driveshaft, but this way will work too.

Parts I’ve got so far...
04 zx10 engine (brand new, dropped a valve first test so I have a bit of work to do)
46 Willy’s tub

Any thoughts or opinions on this would be very helpful.

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

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Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

Hi Velix,

sounds like an awesome project!

I'd suggest using a transaxle instead of a diff will be *much* heavier than necessary, so if you can figure another way for reverse that would probably be my suggestion. Something like the electric motor turning a ring gear mounted on the diff pinion.

Why a torque tube and not a driveshaft? You already have the reduction in the bike gearbox so no need for a heavier torque tube setup. The key with bike powered cars is lightness!

Good luck, and be sure to post up lots of pics when you start, we like pics

Thanks for the reply!
From what I’m finding, a rear diff on its own in some of the lightest forms is around 65-80 lbs depending which is used. Sounds like the Porsche unit was just over 100 so I thought it would save weight after fabbing a reverse. Plus I might be able to remove a few gears to lighten it further. The output of the zx10 could spin up to 10,000rpm in 6th

Also by the looks of that torque tube on YouTube rebuild videos, it seems quite light as well, and after shortening to only a couple feet it might be a good option. I thought it might last longer too, and definitely has a lower rotating mass. If anyone knows the weight I’d love to know how heavy it is.

I’m still flexible on the trans option, but I also liked the thought of being able to put it into 4th and cruise the city all day, then 5th to go on the highway so it wasn’t revving so high. Also less math to figure out. And if I screw up on the gear ratio I might have a ton of work to put in a different diff to change it, unless the one is available in a few options.

And yes, many pics will be coming with this build! Also planning a series for my YouTube channel.

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

Sounds like an interesting project. For the snail shell: I came to the same conclusion when bench building another project idea (Ford RS1700T replica). Those old Porsche transaxles have too many parts that are out of production and can be quite expensive to rebuild. There was an interesting suggestion on grassrootsmotorsports about a diy transaxle made from a 4 spd top loader and a corvette diff. Can't seem to find the link though.

Well, by shear coincidence, a 79 Porsche transaxle and torque tube just went up for sale fairly close to me on the cheap! Waiting to hear back to see the weights and possible shipping options so I don’t have to drive all day to get it.

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

I agree with parts being really expensive for sure. Most guys just replace it with another used if it goes. It would be nice to use a more modern Passat unit, just not sure on the length or weight. The Porsche one is really light fort a complete unit. Plus without changing gears often, or possibly ever, I was hoping it would last longer. Not sure how much hp it can handle though.

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

Well I couldn’t resist the $200 CAD for a Transaxle and torque tube so it’s on the way. They were slated to go overseas but ended up in a consignment auction so they should be good.

By the way, the transaxle is 105# and the torque tube is only 49# at 65” long. Once cut down to maybe 24@ it would be much lighter than a driveshaft

Pics coming soon once the layout begins...

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

So I have the transaxle and torque tube at the house now, and I can confirm they are very light for a trans/diff combo. As I said before, using some other rear diff and fabbing a reverse setup would likely get me close to 100lbs anyways so I'm happy with this setup for now.

Ive been looking around at upright options now. Few canditates are cobalt/g6/pursuit aluminum units that would require some type of fabrication to use upper ball joints-Having trouble finding what others have tried .... PS-These uprights are extremely light!

Another option for even less money is the c5 corvette units. I was surprised to find them under $50 on ebay, and front to back they are the same units. Someone else mentioned though that they would require a much larger rotor/rim package. Can anyone confirm this?

I don't want to start the frame build without having these parts figured out, as it may change my suspension layouts.

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

Here is a pic of the Jeep shell I'm working with for the build...




Here is the transaxle



I've decided to go with the Solstice uprights for this project. They are on order and should be here in the next couple weeks so I can start laying out the frame design.

Has anyone done custom a-arms with the threaded tierod inserted into one of the side tubes instead of a tube in between the two? Like this....



If top and bottom were done this way, it would allow for castor and camber adjustments without as many heavy threaded rod ends in the design. Would love to hear some thoughts...

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log

Following! I'm also using Locost spindles for my mid engined build.

I’ve moved to the build log forum for this project now. Check it out!

viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19848

_________________
If it’s not custom, I don’t want to hear about it!

Youtube Series

Willy’s Hayabusa Build Log