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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 11, 2018, 8:17 am 
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I find it helpful to place all the required equipment on wood, then square the chain drive and driven sprockets. This will also show where the best place is for framing between fixed points at the engine mounts and swing arm pivot. It can also allow you to sit on it to see if the arrangement will fit you comfortably and make for a lighter, cleaner frame with less offsets.

Is the driven sprocket the same pitch as the honda drive sprocket?

Do you have the chain adjusters, axle, spacers, and rear brake system (master, reservoir, pedal, caliper, bracket, hoses, fittings, etc) to work with the wheel and swing arm?

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 11, 2018, 3:12 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I find it helpful to place all the required equipment on wood, then square the chain drive and driven sprockets. This will also show where the best place is for framing between fixed points at the engine mounts and swing arm pivot. It can also allow you to sit on it to see if the arrangement will fit you comfortably and make for a lighter, cleaner frame with less offsets.

Is the driven sprocket the same pitch as the honda drive sprocket?

Do you have the chain adjusters, axle, spacers, and rear brake system (master, reservoir, pedal, caliper, bracket, hoses, fittings, etc) to work with the wheel and swing arm?
Thank You, those are coming soon, next will be the swing arm alignment and tack weld with the lower rails and control arms, then upper rails and control arms and tie to swing arm brackets, AND IT SHOULD BE ROLLING... :cheers:

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 11, 2018, 3:21 pm 
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First swing arm, new tire mock up...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 13, 2018, 12:36 am 
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Tire aligned for chain install and square swing arm and to frame...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 15, 2018, 1:48 pm 
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Going to the machine shop and picking up the rear axle and lower control arm brackets for a little welding this morning. Check out the chain clearance, Ordered the button head bolts for the sprocket (need clearance) and the rod ends 7/16-20 for the coil over push rod...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 16, 2018, 9:24 pm 
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More mock up, tack welded swing arm brackets to frame and lower control arm brackets.
More mocking on the upper frame rails and control arm brackets and those 18 degree vertical braces...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 17, 2018, 11:09 am 
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Nice progress. If you find you still need more clearance after getting the button head bolts, consider flat head bolts (screws) and counter sinking them in the sprocket. Just a thought.

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 17, 2018, 1:04 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
Nice progress. If you find you still need more clearance after getting the button head bolts, consider flat head bolts (screws) and counter sinking them in the sprocket. Just a thought.
Thank You Chuck I'm still in mock up with lots of tack welds, The Harley shop let me borrow a 48T flat (I want 46T) chrome sprocket and the thought of counter sinking a chrome sprocket was out of the question, BUT who needs chrome on the sprocket, Sooooo! I'll look it over again and hope to cut down on the offset, Thanks Again...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 18, 2018, 9:37 pm 
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The control arm lower brackets, tabs and gussets are 3/16, I hope overkill? I should have made some fixture bushings .005-.010 over and bolted before welding, I will for the upper ones...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 19, 2018, 8:01 am 
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The control arm lower brackets, tabs and gussets are 3/16
OHHHH NOOOO!!!! He said that word!!!


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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 19, 2018, 3:32 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
The control arm lower brackets, tabs and gussets are 3/16
OHHHH NOOOO!!!! He said that word!!!
I'll take that as a YES! nice photo by the way...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 19, 2018, 7:09 pm 
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TomyJ wrote:
The control arm lower brackets, tabs and gussets are 3/16, I hope overkill?

Yes, very much so. Take a look at the brkts on atvs for an idea of the material thickness needed. Should be close to 1/8 material. The brkts need to flex so the bushing inner sleeve can slide in and out without damaging the brkt. The brkt must flex enough for the bolt to close the gap on the sleeve without damaging the brkt. If you added the gussets due to concern about tearout from the frame rail due to less welded area or the wall thickness of the rail being too thin, consider making U shaped brkts which will at least double the effective tube wall thickness and more than double the welded area. If the concern is the brkts bending at the sleeve and rail to trapezoid/collapse, gusset one flange instead of both so the other flange can still move to close the gap to the sleeve with the bolt. Just some ideas but what you've done will work.

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 21, 2018, 9:25 pm 
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Upper frame rails are being dialed in for jack shaft and engine clearance...
This is going to take some time and many headaches? Back to flatness problems again with 60 degree bends or cuts? Ordered a flat 46T Harley painted sprocket, I will counter sink the mounting bolts for a closer fit to the swing arm. Tomorrow is Thanksgiving holiday weekend and wife is out of the country with relatives SOOOOOOO!!! Home alone and many drawings and glasses of red wine,

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 24, 2018, 2:40 pm 
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Need to bend the upper frame rails out (left and right) so I'll have at least 16" on the inside, the engine is 15" wide, and again fittings of jack shaft and gear shift, exhaust mounting, so many things to consider. New sprocket and mounting bolts should be here soon...

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 Post subject: Re: RebelRouser RT
PostPosted: November 26, 2018, 12:12 am 
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Time to do some mock up on the jack shaft diameter or how many teeth per diameter? Or remember that big pot hole that almost bottomed out the car, I think a 4" would ease my mind now to figure the teeth for a 530 chain (Harley) 2.75 dia. sprocket = 16T, so I am GUESSING about 25T and I'll try to use the same size engine sprocket. I have a 37T and it is 6". Wheel sprocket will be Harley 46T.
Now the up and down travel is less at the swing arm mounting as the rear is greater...
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Edit-.Edit, There is a site for sprocket diameter to the number of teeth, 530 chain, 20T = 4" and 15T = 3" this will really help out for my jack shaft...

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