LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently April 7, 2020, 3:22 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 43 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: September 6, 2018, 9:15 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
G'day all,

I've wanted to build a locost for a long time but here in Australia there are a huge number of hoops you need to jump through in order to get something like that registered. Definitely possible, but not something I am prepared to go through.

However if you build a "replica" of a pre-1949 vehicle modified as a street rod it's much easier to get the thing registered.

So my search started for something with a very light, simple body I could fabricate from aluminium (for lightness) and a very simple chassis I could tweak to sit over Miata subframes to simplify the build and registration. I owned a Miata for about 7 years, did 2 engine swaps and a turbo installation and enjoyed every minute of it, so it seems like a logical place to start.

Here's a few pics of my Miata at its peak awesomeness.

Image

Image

(I still have the KL 2.5L V6 mated to the Miata gearbox in the garage, so that's an option...)

The Willys chassis is parallel and ~750mm across the outside of the rails. MX5 subframes are located by bolts ~800mm apart so some simple brackets off the chassis should be all that's required.

Image

This is basically the only drawing I can find of a CJ2A chassis, though I have dimensions of the width and between all the suspension points. From that I've put together what is close to an accurate model of the chassis.

The street rod guidelines here say it must be a replica of an original chassis modified as a street rod. There are also parts of the guidelines which mention fitting independent suspension as acceptable. Dropping the middle of the chassis to lower the car also seems to be a common modification, so to that end I've created a rough model in CAD of the standard CJ2A chassis with drops at each end for MX-5 subframes, and lengthened a couple of hundred mm just so I can fit in the damned thing :lol:

Image

The little outriggers at the back I'm not sure about, I'll need to confirm with the engineer if they're allowed as a modification to the original chassis. There's not really anywhere to mount a roll bar to the standard chassis, so that's what I've added them for.

I also want to fit a turbocharged motorbike engine to the car. I found a Yamaha R1 CAD model online and mocked it up to see what it will be like, along with standard MX5 suspension.

Image

I can't find a model of the Miata subframes, but they basically look like an extra crossmember hanging below the raised sections of the chassis.

Image

I also found dimensions of the CJ2A bodywork online and put together a slightly stretched body.

Image

Image

Higher wheel arches, flares and widened front guards are required for the increased track from the Miata suspension.

Image

Image

I also found a CAD model of an LS3 and T56 (same physical size as an LS1 or LS2) and checked it in the car.

Image

Image

So very, very tempting. I wouldn't have to figure out reverse, I've already done an LS1 swap on my car (Silvia S13) so I know a bit about them, the Miata rear end is easy to upgrade to handle the power, cheap upgrade parts...

What do we think? I'll lose some interior space but it looks like there will still be plenty of room for the pedal assemblies, and a set of long tube extractors coming out over the front guards to side pipes is really appealing to me.

Anyway, I've decided to start a build log because even though it will probably be a LONG time before any real progress happens, I am going to pick up all the bits I need from a Miata donor car mid next week.

Any suggestions or comments welcome!


Last edited by Beelzeboss on September 25, 2019, 6:00 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 12:44 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: December 4, 2011, 6:19 pm
Posts: 779
G'day Beelzeboss,

Your proposal sounds interesting. Sort of weird but interesting. I've got a 1942 Ford GPW, which is the Ford manufactured version of the WWII Willy's MB, and a Locost under construction but I've never considered putting them together. Each to his own, though, and I'll watch your build with interest.

You may find the drawings at http://www.avi-plus.com/repair-tips-for ... s-pdf.html helpful. As you'll read these are enhanced versions of the scans recently posted online by The Henry Ford Foundation of the original blue prints for the Ford GPW. It might help with your registration process if you can flop some of these down in front of the examiner.

Good luck,

_________________
Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 8:28 am 
Offline
We are Slotus!
User avatar

Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
Posts: 7687
Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Yo, Beelz-
If you google-search for "Jeep in SCCA E/Mod" you can track down Del Long's build. It's a purpose-built "Looks like a Jeep" autocross car, so the frame design won't help you much but the images may give you some bodywork ideas. He also used a GM-sourced 1.4 turbo engine, which has proven to be a hot setup for that SCCA class and might work for you as well.

:cheers:
Good luck, keep us posted-
JDK

_________________
JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 7, 2018, 11:28 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
Posts: 3026
Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
I've actually thought many times, and will continue to do so, about how well suited the Jeep shape would be to a Locost style frame and paneling. It seems that the same could be a welded 'addition' to the Jeep 'replica frame' and stay within the confines of the legal requirements. Either way, I like where you're headed with this. :cheers:

_________________
-Justin

Also follow my build on blogspot, tumblr, or instagram and twitter (GarageOdyssey)


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 11, 2018, 1:01 am 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
BHRmotorsport wrote:
G'day Beelzeboss,

Your proposal sounds interesting. Sort of weird but interesting. I've got a 1942 Ford GPW, which is the Ford manufactured version of the WWII Willy's MB, and a Locost under construction but I've never considered putting them together. Each to his own, though, and I'll watch your build with interest.

You may find the drawings at http://www.avi-plus.com/repair-tips-for ... s-pdf.html helpful. As you'll read these are enhanced versions of the scans recently posted online by The Henry Ford Foundation of the original blue prints for the Ford GPW. It might help with your registration process if you can flop some of these down in front of the examiner.

Good luck,

Thank you very much, I've downloaded all the files which I believe will be relevant to the build. The only reason I'm going with the jeep-esque body and frame is for easy registration... though I really like how easy it should be to build a ladder frame joining the MX-5 subframes and just plonk a simple alloy body on it; hopefully I can make the body contribute some rigidity to the vehicle.

GonzoRacer wrote:
Yo, Beelz-
If you google-search for "Jeep in SCCA E/Mod" you can track down Del Long's build. It's a purpose-built "Looks like a Jeep" autocross car, so the frame design won't help you much but the images may give you some bodywork ideas. He also used a GM-sourced 1.4 turbo engine, which has proven to be a hot setup for that SCCA class and might work for you as well.

:cheers:
Good luck, keep us posted-
JDK

Cheers mate! I'll check out his build log when I get home, I definitely need all the help I can get when it comes to bodywork.

Driven5 wrote:
I've actually thought many times, and will continue to do so, about how well suited the Jeep shape would be to a Locost style frame and paneling. It seems that the same could be a welded 'addition' to the Jeep 'replica frame' and stay within the confines of the legal requirements. Either way, I like where you're headed with this. :cheers:

Haha, the thought did occur to me as well - build this as a jeep then once it's registered drop a Locost style body on it - but I think after going through all the hoops to get it registered I'll want to keep it mostly legal. The police here attack modified vehicles with a vengeance, it's ridiculous.

I'll be going to disassemble my MX-5 shell this afternoon, I'll take some pics of what I score!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 12, 2018, 12:30 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
Posts: 3026
Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
No, no. Not drop a Locost onto the Jeep frame after registering it with a Jeep body... Reproportion a basic Locost frame design into a structural Jeep body.

_________________
-Justin

Also follow my build on blogspot, tumblr, or instagram and twitter (GarageOdyssey)


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 17, 2018, 9:41 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
Driven5 wrote:
No, no. Not drop a Locost onto the Jeep frame after registering it with a Jeep body... Reproportion a basic Locost frame design into a structural Jeep body.

To be classified as a street rod it has to be a simple ladder frame that doesn't rely on the body for structural rigidity. It must be a rough copy of the original frame "modified as a street rod".

If I build a space frame then it no longer qualifies and I'd have to jump through an insane number of hoops to get the thing legal.

I didn't end up grabbing the Miata subframes because I realised I need to finish off a few things I've got going at the moment before making a serious start on another project, and I don't have anywhere to store them... so this is being shelved for the time being but it will go ahead at some point and I'll resurrect this thread as needed :cheers:


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: August 22, 2019, 4:16 am 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
Alrighty! I'm finally setup at my new place with a garage and this project is back on the cards.

I've pretty much finalised the design, abandoned the idea of a bike engine because I don't think it would suit my plans for the car (mostly street driving with a few track days thrown in here-and-there), and I'm currently looking for some cheap fully dressed MX5/Miata subframes.

I'll be approaching an engineer within a couple of weeks with my design to get the go-ahead required to start construction. Hopefully by then I'll have the subframes and a few other bits and pieces.

Powertrain is still up in the air. I want something cheap and reliable, but not sure on my power goals. I have a 2.5L Mazda V6 mated to a Miata gearbox which came out of my old MX5, and with a small turbo would be extremely quick... buuuuuut I really would like that V8 soundtrack coming out of the thing.

Other possible option is a Toyota/Lexus 1UZ-FE 4L V8 with a turbo / supercharger setup because I've always wanted to put one in something. They're cheap and readily available here in Australia, and they're extremely strong/reliable engines. Sort of like the V8 version of a 2JZ in terms of strength.

Anyway, just thought I'd touch base with the forum because I'll probably be asking a heap of questions as I go.

Cheers!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: August 28, 2019, 6:16 am 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
I've managed to source a 1UZ-FE from a 1991 LS400 for a VERY reasonable price, going to pick it up this weekend.

Being from an LS400 it's a 'front sump' 1UZ, which is not ideal, but I think even with a rear sump engine I'd need to make a custom one to fit with the MX-5 subframe so... I'm going for it.

This is the first gen. version of the engine with the much stronger rods and lower compression

Image

And so the accumulation of parts begins! The rest of the major components I need:

    - MX5/Miata subframes with all the fruit, steering rack, column, handbrake assembly, pedals, brakes, brake master, etc.
    - RX7 TII diff (preferably LSD), axles, hubs <- can be easily modded to fit into MX5 cradle and is a cheap way to upgrade for the power, however the 4.1 diff ratio is not ideal
    - Colorado/Rodeo 3.6 gearbox. Code MA5, which is basically the same as a Solstice AR5 but more readily available in Australia. Very cheap and adapter plates exist
    - Toyota 5VZ flywheel and pressure plate <- can be easily machined to fit the 1UZ
    - Colorado/Rodeo 3.6 clutch disc <- same diameter as the 5VZ so *should* all bolt together

My aim is to have the 1UZ manualised and the RX7 diff into the MX5/Miata rear subframe before I start on the frame. This way I maximise the amount of space in the garage for getting the preliminary stuff done. It will take me a while to get to the frame stage but I'm hoping from there it will be a very straight forward, quick build...


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: November 15, 2019, 9:24 pm 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
ALRIGHTY! The forums have been restored!

I ended up not buying the LS400 motor because it was going to be such a pain to get it out of the donor vehicle. Instead I bought an entire '93 Toyota Soarer (Lexus SC400) for $500 and stripped out the entire driveline/subframes/steering/suspension. I've abandoned my idea of MX5 subframes and am going to use the Soarer as a single donor. The subframes are not too dissimilar to the Mx5 ones, especially the front.

Image

The 4L 1UZFE quad cam V8 engine, with the extremely beefy pre-'95 bottom end.

Image

And out it comes!

Image

(Yes I disassembled the whole thing on the road outside my apartment haha)

Image

A turbo, some bigger injectors and this should be safe for 400whp. Throw some MLS head gaskets and ARP head studs in and we are good to go for over 700whp. It really is an amazing engine, and the NOISE!

Image

Current work space needs a little more tidying up but it's getting there.

I had a chat to the engineer as far as certification as a street-rod and looks like my chassis needs to basically be a replica of a pre-1949 chassis with no modifications to the rails. This means the Willys is out because it has next to no step-down in the middle so I'd end up with an offroading machine (not what I want).
Current thought is potentially a Ford Anglia chassis:

Image

With the jeep body draped over it. The Anglia chassis looks like it will definitely work with the Soarer rear subframe, I need to do more measurements to see if the front is possible.

Anyway, currently working on the CAD model to find a suitable chassis. Once that's done and I have approval from the engineer I'll buy some steel and start construction!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: November 16, 2019, 11:19 am 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
Posts: 6591
A clothes pin can hold the tape end hook down over an edge.
You can measure from edge then divide the hole id in half to find the center distance.

_________________
MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: November 19, 2019, 2:35 am 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
A clothes pin can hold the tape end hook down over an edge.
You can measure from edge then divide the hole id in half to find the center distance.

To measure the subframes mounting holes? I used a tape measure and got within 2mm of values I found later in a full service manual for the car :)

I drew up the Anglia chassis in the previous post and it looks like it will work, though clearance at the front for engine accessories may be a little tight.

I've also found a drawing of an Austin A40 chassis which looks like it could also be an option, and is a little less complex to build.

Image

It also has provisions at the front for IFS, so it should be simpler to adapt the soarer IFS and staying within the bounds of the street rod guidelines.

Will model it in CAD tomorrow and see how it fits.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: November 19, 2019, 7:48 pm 
Offline
Automotive Encyclopedia
User avatar

Joined: December 22, 2006, 2:05 pm
Posts: 6591
No, I thought you were talking about finding the center of large holes.

If you only need to ensure the main rails are present, meet oem dims, and are out of the way, maybe a model A ford?

_________________
MV8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om3C1Ep ... D3E18BB447


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 9, 2019, 6:24 am 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
No, I thought you were talking about finding the center of large holes.

If you only need to ensure the main rails are present, meet oem dims, and are out of the way, maybe a model A ford?

I think a model A ford or similar is what I'll end up with. My engineer is now saying that its 10x easier and cheaper to register a hot rod with an original chassis, SO I'm on the lookout!

In the mean time I've done a little shopping this weekend :)

My Chinese made inverter TIG welder blew up a few weeks ago (for the 2nd time, not impressed) and I've sourced a replacement...

Attachment:
syncrowave 2.jpg
syncrowave 2.jpg [ 195.17 KiB | Viewed 2805 times ]

I *may* have gone slightly overboard here, but I wanted something reliable and I found this at a fairly good price.

Attachment:
syncrowave 1.jpg
syncrowave 1.jpg [ 201.57 KiB | Viewed 2805 times ]

It makes my Cebora MIG (which I thought was a fairly large machine) look like a toy. This thing weighs 175kgs (385 lbs) !!!!

Attachment:
syncrowave 3.jpg
syncrowave 3.jpg [ 132.16 KiB | Viewed 2805 times ]

It does everything my inverter machine could do except variable frequency A/C - this only does 50 Hz - but I don't think I'll miss it. I can still do AC or DC and pulse on either! 310 A max welding current, too.


Last edited by Beelzeboss on December 9, 2019, 6:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: December 9, 2019, 6:31 am 
Offline

Joined: July 20, 2009, 1:16 am
Posts: 109
I also bought some parts for the actual build!

I got 2 sheets of 1.6mm (0.063") ally for the floors and 3 sheets of 1.2mm (0.047") for the rest of the panels. I also bought some 25x25x3 (1"x1"x1/8") angle to use for the 90 degree bends. I'll rivet the angle to the flat panels so that it stiffens the body and also allows me to easily replace any damaged or scratched flat panels.

And finally I bought a turbo for the build:

Attachment:
turbo 3.jpg
turbo 3.jpg [ 241.61 KiB | Viewed 2805 times ]

It's a Borg Warner made S300-SX3 66mm turbo with a twin scroll 0.91 A/R rear housing - good for about 850 horsepower.

Attachment:
turbo 2.jpg
turbo 2.jpg [ 242.47 KiB | Viewed 2805 times ]

There's a bloke running one of these on a 1UZFE with only MLS head gaskets, ARP head studs and uprated valve springs and it's making 780rwhp :lol:

I only have 630cc (60 lbs/hr) injectors so I'm limited to around 550 whp, but I feel that should be plenty in something that hopefully ends up at less than a tonne.

Attachment:
turbo 1.jpg
turbo 1.jpg [ 173.05 KiB | Viewed 2805 times ]

I had my heart set on doing twin TD04L-13T's (Subaru WRX OEM turbo, above), which would have topped out around 400 whp, but I scored this S300 for a great price and now I never have to upgrade it!

Anyway, I'll continue my search for a chassis and post updates as I go.

Comments always welcome!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 43 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2, 3  Next

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY