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Turbo V8 Jeep hot rod scratch build - SC400/Soarer donor http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=19549 |
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Author: | Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ January 15, 2020, 7:02 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
Just showing another way. Different pov. I'm not saying your front xmember will crack the way you are doing it. You will have a lot more room around the engine for exhaust with the second mod. |
Author: | davew [ January 16, 2020, 9:43 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
Building on MV8's suggestion. Best practice is to extend the gusset for the plate, all the way up to the side rail top, i.e. hard corner. Stopping mid-way with the gusset in the middle of the web will cause the web surface to oil can, which leads to a weld termination fatigue crack. Davew |
Author: | Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ January 16, 2020, 9:51 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
Agreed. It probably isn't clear from the pictures, but the only purpose of the 2nd xmember is to tie the aft lcaps together and provide an attachment to the unibody. I considered no gusset at all. It appears to be 3mm wall but definitely better to extend it all the way up even if it is a very narrow gusset. |
Author: | Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ February 9, 2020, 9:24 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
Why not run a shorter belt and eliminate the pump and pulley? Looks like it would not be an issue. If you keep the pump as an idler, be sure to fill the cavity with syn grease since there will be no oil to lube the bearing and rear bush. |
Author: | Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ February 10, 2020, 7:35 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
I'm sure it will keep the belt on and you have it sorted but for the sake of discussion: The tensioner won't be very effective at keeping the belt tight without the ps pulley in the original position. The tensioner pulley moves more parallel to the belt instead of 90 degrees to it so the shortest belt that will fit over the pulleys won't be as tight. If the belt is wearing on one side more, trying to walk off the tensioner pulley, you can fit a lipped pulley to it with a little work. You could also leave the fan pump pulley and guts off and bolck it off or leave it open then run a shorter belt. I'd make a plate to replace the tensioner and mount the idler down low just above the alt and crank, either fit to a straight, vertical slot in the plate to adjust with a block of metal threaded for a tensioning bolt or a curved slot with a flat arm that you lift to hold the adjustment then tighten the center bolt on the idler that is now a tensioner. Have to make sure you can get a belt that short first for your belt width. I'm guessing K6? I can draw a pic if you are interested but it sounds like you have sorted sufficiently to keep moving on this. I like the mdf engine stand! |
Author: | Beelzeboss [ February 11, 2020, 5:56 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote: I'm sure it will keep the belt on and you have it sorted but for the sake of discussion: The tensioner won't be very effective at keeping the belt tight without the ps pulley in the original position. The tensioner pulley moves more parallel to the belt instead of 90 degrees to it so the shortest belt that will fit over the pulleys won't be as tight. If the belt is wearing on one side more, trying to walk off the tensioner pulley, you can fit a lipped pulley to it with a little work. You could also leave the fan pump pulley and guts off and bolck it off or leave it open then run a shorter belt. I'd make a plate to replace the tensioner and mount the idler down low just above the alt and crank, either fit to a straight, vertical slot in the plate to adjust with a block of metal threaded for a tensioning bolt or a curved slot with a flat arm that you lift to hold the adjustment then tighten the center bolt on the idler that is now a tensioner. Have to make sure you can get a belt that short first for your belt width. I'm guessing K6? I can draw a pic if you are interested but it sounds like you have sorted sufficiently to keep moving on this. I like the mdf engine stand! They had those MDF things at Aldi for $10! Rated to 250kg, I bought 4 Also I should have said I'm keeping the P/S because I want to keep the standard rack for simpler registration. |
Author: | Beelzeboss [ February 16, 2020, 5:06 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
Bit of an update, got the engine mounts and gearbox mount mostly done. IMG_20200213_172618 by jones_fli, on Flickr I seem to be using a lot of cardboard aided design for this project. Drilled holes into my front subframe supports IMG_20200213_180947 by jones_fli, on Flickr And attach the engine mounts like this IMG_20200213_181107 by jones_fli, on Flickr Then welded up some engine mounts (skipped a lot of steps here, lathed out the pipe for the bushes, etc.) IMG_20200216_130723 by jones_fli, on Flickr Then added reinforcement IMG_20200216_150552 by jones_fli, on Flickr IMG_20200216_160521 by jones_fli, on Flickr Then go to install them and realise I've welded the reinforcement on the low side of the mounts IMG_20200216_161542 by jones_fli, on Flickr Gearbox mount "drop tubes" notched into the crossmember IMG_20200216_140502 by jones_fli, on Flickr Then little platforms welded on the bottom of the tubes to support land rover engine mounts (because they're simple, easy to fabricate with and cost $15, rather than ~$100 for the Lexus gearbox mount) IMG_20200216_160536 by jones_fli, on Flickr I used part of the Lexus mount which had come completely apart to attach to the gearbox. It was a fairly sturdy piece that I could weld to. IMG_20200216_172832 by jones_fli, on Flickr Made a brace to tie the gearbox mounts together for extra strength IMG_20200216_160526 by jones_fli, on Flickr And here's the [Fatherless Child] love child of a lexus gearbox mount, land rover engine mounts, mashed together to fit in a 1946 Ford chassis. IMG_20200216_182202 by jones_fli, on Flickr I'll get an installed photo tomorrow, then it's on to the body frame! I'm so excited to get started on that, it's going to start looking more and more like an actual car now. |
Author: | Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F [ February 16, 2020, 7:16 am ] |
Post subject: | Re: Willys jeep scratch build - SC400/Soarer single donor |
I had similar problems with the T5 in the spitfire rails. Here is my solution using nut plates in the rails and I added the exhaust hangers. It looks like you could use a single mount a little further back but a little lower. Should not be a big deal since the pan is much lower and forward of the mount. By adding the 1/2 inch flange around the edge, it becomes as stiff as a much thicker, heavier plate. Pink strip notch is to clear the red strip which is more important but you will decide if the mount is low enough to clear without notching. Nut plates can be slipped in and float or drill a couple holes in the bottom face of the rails to plug weld the strips in place (once you know exactly where you want them). I used the same for my engine mounts and dodge truck engine mounts that were about $2 each and the size of a credit card not counting the safety tabs. I've welded stuff on backwards before too. Good enough imho. |
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