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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 7:51 pm 
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Joined: January 13, 2008, 9:07 pm
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Location: Glendale AZ
Distance from center of ball joint (top) to center of ball joint(bottom) does it make a difference ?
The lower is adjustable along with the top. The bottom can get longer but not shorter.(longer ball stud, 1/2" increments)
The wheel will be a 15" and will need to keep the scrub at O so their maybe a max on the lower ?
And also the top steer arm ?
Going to need to see what will fit inside the wheel.


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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 8:04 pm 
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Well the relative positioning of each matters, yeah. You want the center of the lower ball joint to be at the same height as the center of the pickup point of the car (in other words, the lower control arm is level when at ride height). Then, the upper ball joint has to be high enough that the upper control arms slope downward slightly towards the car. This is reasonably easy to correct by adjusting where you weld your tabs to the frame. The lower however, should have the tabs mounted pretty close to the bottom of the frame, because that's stronger than having them mounted say midway up.

In the case of my build, with MY2000 Mustang front spindles, I had to get custom made lower ball joint studs in order to mount the lower arm in a decent place. You can see in the attachment that a shorter stud would have landed the lower arms much higher on the frame, causing much more difficulty mounting the shocks etc. By the way, this geometry is meant for a track car with a 3" ride height.


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PostPosted: December 10, 2018, 7:45 pm 
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I'll add that longer stems can make a small difference in scrub but not much.

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