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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 11, 2018, 12:22 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
B85 wrote:
Can't do the Auto bell. Their are no mounts for the clutch system.


How about a hydraulic T/O bearing?

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PostPosted: December 11, 2018, 12:42 pm 
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Joined: January 13, 2008, 9:07 pm
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Location: Glendale AZ
You could but its all their on the 5MT bell. Think going with the auto bell would be more work to add what is needed.

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PostPosted: December 12, 2018, 4:59 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2006, 3:09 pm
Posts: 279
Location: Holly, MI
For your custom shaft, I was quoted about $700 for something similar. The cost of the part is not the expensive part, it's the design work and setup. They said buying more parts would significantly reduce the cost per part. If you go this route, I suggest you buy more than one for when it breaks.

As for finding the hole centers, see if any people you know work somewhere where they have a CMM table or arm. When I made my trans to diff adapter plate, our quality tech was able to measure the holes using our CMM arm in just a few minutes. It took more time to secure the part to the table. You can probably find someone to do this for some beer.

Good luck.

Ken


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PostPosted: December 13, 2018, 2:04 pm 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
Generally only two holes on the engine side are important; the ones that go over bushings or dowels to locate the housing. The others are clearance holes.

On the transmission side, most transmissions pilot on the front bearing retainer. Otherwise, you have to come off the input shaft. Due to bearing clearances, the shaft can be "wiggly" out near where you have to measure. In that case, lightly load the shaft toward or away from your indicator each time you take a measurement so all the errors cancel out.

"Industry standard" input shaft to crank alignment is .015", but I'd like to see .005" or less. The hot rod industry has made eccentric bushings so you could shift the housing around to get better alignment. It's kind of worrying that there's actually a market for a product like that...


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PostPosted: December 15, 2018, 12:16 am 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
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Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
When I made my adapter I turned a tube on the lathe to fit over the stub on the back of the crank and the input shaft of the transmission. About a .001" or .002" slip fit on both. Then I put the engine on the crank pulley with the rear surface of the block up and flat, put my adapter plate on the back of the block with the dowels in place, put the transmission on top of that, and drilled a pair of dowel holes through the transmission bellhousing into my adapter plate. You could probably make a similar process work once you've welded a plate to the back of your cut off bellhousing and made sure it's parallel to the front face. For the shaft you can probably find an old hotrodder that knows how to shorten and respline axles, it isn't hard to do with a lathe and an indexing head. Using carbide cutters you don't really even have to aneal an axle shaft.
Kristian

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PostPosted: January 12, 2019, 2:00 pm 
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Joined: July 22, 2017, 6:45 pm
Posts: 7
I might be up for making the shaft and intermediate plate. Just finished machining 4 connecting rods for a 1910 Pope Hartford 4 cylinder and like jobs like this.


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