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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: October 9, 2014, 1:31 pm 
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Ahhh, I see said the blind man.

Yes, I am familiar with them, but unfortunately that's not what I have on the car - yet. If I have to make a change in the shock mounts, I will definitely go with thos.

It was obvious what you meant once I saw the pic. Funny how that happens isn't it?

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: October 16, 2014, 1:34 pm 
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I've got a bit to post, but haven't had the time to gather pics and do the write ups, BUT lookey what I got in an email today.

"The body is under Construction and will hopefully be finished by next week or so.
Spoke with him yesterday and he said the front end of the bodywork is already finish."

It appears we will be using the Norwegian body! It will take some modifications to fit our chassis, but I need to learn the finer parts of fiberglassing anyway.

This are excite!

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: September 4, 2016, 10:03 pm 
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So will the F20c fit under the stalker hood?
I'm pretty determined to fit a turbo k24 or k20 to an MX5 stalker so I'll deff be keeping an eye on this thread.


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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: September 7, 2016, 10:23 pm 
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Ls1Rx7 wrote:
So will the F20c fit under the stalker hood?
I'm pretty determined to fit a turbo k24 or k20 to an MX5 stalker so I'll deff be keeping an eye on this thread.

Contact Scott from stalker cars and he will let you know what will and won't fit. He could also customize it for you to make it fit.

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: September 7, 2016, 11:17 pm 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
Ls1Rx7 wrote:
So will the F20c fit under the stalker hood?
I'm pretty determined to fit a turbo k24 or k20 to an MX5 stalker so I'll deff be keeping an eye on this thread.

Contact Scott from stalker cars and he will let you know what will and won't fit. He could also customize it for you to make it fit.



I did already over a call and a several emails back and forth.
He's been pushing me to just use the Ls1, which I already have but I didn't like the camaro sound track coming from my Rx7 and in a lotus 7 clone it feels even less of a fit.

Would be awesome in a resto-rod but not this build.


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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: September 8, 2016, 3:57 pm 
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The LS1 is all they really want you to build.

I have no idea if their hood fits or not as I haven't even decided if I'm going to use their pieces.

But from the looks of it I think it would barely clear. At worst you'd have a minor bulge.

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: October 20, 2016, 10:48 pm 
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Any updates?

I'm waiting to see the results of this project before deciding on a K24 or an Ls1. Based mainly on my concerns about the engine fitting under the hood / while getting decent clearence without a dry sump


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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 10, 2018, 10:33 pm 
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Hey, long time no see!!

Lots (way too much) has been happening - on everything except the car - until recently. Mostly my car work has just still been fiddly bits and cleaning of the shop. All that takes time, but doesn't look like much.

We got A NEW PHYSICAL SUMMIT STORE about 45 minutes from my house!! It's awesome! My first trip took me 3 hours. It's like a theme park for car guys.

The next visit took 2 hours, but all of that time was behind the order desk and then days to get all the various pieces shipped from various depots around the country, only to find they'd shipped the wrong sizes. I had even taken my pieces into Summit to make sure I got the right sizes.

I've been working on all the "little" details and trying to tie up all the suspension pieces properly before I begin roll bar relocation and engine installaion. So I've got a couple of questions for you guys.

On the rocker arms they used 1/2" bolts on 2 out of the 3 holes and one they used a 3/8" which requires a sleeve to fill the gap because the shock ends need 1/2". On the easy ones I just reamed the mounting holes to 1/2" so I could use 1/2' bolts as they fit the shock ends properly, but there are several places that are going to be super hard to reach to ream so is it worth the effort? Here's a pic of the 2. BTW these are not the final bolts, they are just what I've been using to mock things up.

Attachment:
2 bolts w sleeve.jpg
2 bolts w sleeve.jpg [ 232.5 KiB | Viewed 2356 times ]


Also is there anything I don't want to use on Delrin? I have one steel insert in the pivot point of one of the rocker arms that has seized and I need to lube it. I'm thinking there's no problem with WD40 or a penetrating lube, but I wanted to be sure.

I was able to get the proper size poly bushings for the upper control arms to give me just the slightest little amount of compliance when compared to Delrin bushings and I will begin fitting them soon. If I don't like it I can always switch back. The recent meet in the Ozarks made me realize that it's important to have some roadworthy compromises.

What I've done on other builds is to install the bushings so there is a small void in the center, mount a zerk fitting over that void, & do some slight scoring from the middle of the steel insert out towards the ends to help the grease travel to help with the inevitable squeaks that develop. That has worked well, but it's very time intensive so that's the next "big" thing.

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 10, 2018, 10:57 pm 
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Attachment:
rear shock arm2.jpg
rear shock arm2.jpg [ 81.18 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]

Attachment:
rear shock arm.jpg
rear shock arm.jpg [ 103.08 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]

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rear shock arm3.jpg
rear shock arm3.jpg [ 74.49 KiB | Viewed 2352 times ]


I would swear we just had a thread that talked about the evils of just this type of attachment and yet this is how the rear shock rod is mounted.

Since I'd been mostly playing with the front, it just didn't register.

But since that's what the factory used I'm going to use it because it would require rebuilding of the whole rear LCA. I want it rolling & running and then I can work on improving things.

Ted Oud from Ontario was just down to see me and to see the Indy races. He left with my new '04 S2000 engine strapped in the back of his truck. But that leaves me with an extra S2000 transmission. Anyone need one?

The good part of why I hadn't been working on things was I was spending a lot of time learning, researching and cultivating friends and sources that could help me go a slightly different direction, but I won't go into details until I actually have one in my possession. I have seen several other types of builds using this engine & other bits and they all swear how easy & cheap it is to find, but I'll reserve judgement till I actually have all the bits in my possession. I have a block & trans I can borrow if I need it to get the chassis ready.

The Ozark meet really showcased why a windshield and some sort of top was really a good thing to have so I'll work on that if I don't get the real engine & other bits soon. Gasp! Some even wished they had AC. But the windshield and potential for a top needs some other things decided.

Fixed seat or expensive traditional car seat? Both have their pluses.

A fixed seat would require movable pedals which doesn't seem to be a huge undertaking, but a steering wheel that moves in & out does. The only ones I've seen in big cars only seem to move about 4" which isn't enough based upon my experiments between my wife & me.

Is there another alternative than a factory steering column?

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 10, 2018, 11:23 pm 
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Speaking of seats, has anyone else seen the ad from some place in Ca. that is selling Smart Car seats 2 for $150. They have a bunch of them. I thought I'd saved the link but can't find it now.

I have no idea what they are really like, but at that price it would be worth investigating.

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 11, 2018, 6:21 pm 
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Try this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Smart-Car-Fortwo-Passion-Pure-OEM-Pair-of-Left-Right-Seats-Black-Vinyl-Mesh/231446581699?hash=item35e34a91c3:g:ORkAAOSwg3FUfLuP


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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 11:30 am 
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The seat/pedals/steering wheel thing is an issue for my wife and I, as she is much shorter than I am. She noted that we used to share an elderly pickup truck that we couldn't slide the seat up for her when I was a passenger, unless I wanted it sit cross-legged. She had no problem driving a stick shift as long as she had a couple of stadium pads to sit forward on the seat. So I'm tentatively going ahead with that plan...


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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 1:07 pm 
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When I built the Slotus, I put the seat where it fit me and bolted it to the frame/roll cage.

Then I found out HamDip wanted to co-drive the car. And occasionally so does Earl. Both are about 5-9 to my 6-0. Ham has long legs, short torso and I'm tall in the saddle. (i.e. - She couldn't see out!) After stuffing every blanket, sleeping bag, car cover, etc we owned in the seat a few times, I gave up and built a seat insert out of the same foam-n-fiberglass construction I used for the fenders, nose and rear deck.

We placed the foam pieces in the seat and added/subtracted until Ham said it fit. Then did the same with James. I made a full-sized seat insert for her and a "backrest" for James. 'Glassed 'em both over, glued some padding on the seating surfaces and back and TWWTFM made a seatcover for it. Takes about 3 seconds to insert or remove.

As Robbobvious likes to say, "It works mint!" YMMV... Just tossin' out an idea... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 23, 2018, 10:56 pm 
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Those removable seat cushion thingies sound like the simplest approach so that's one big thing I'll forget about. Unfortunately unless I add one for me too then people bigger than me can't drive it so I guess I'll just make mine prettier and more permanent.

I found out, too late, that the 3/8" bolt with the sleeve is the best approach rather than reaming the holes out to fit the 1/2" because it allows more twist. With the 3/8" you can tighten tightly to the sleeve whereas the 1/2" means you have to tighten to the object in the middle (the top of the shock) which means it will bind. So my prodigious brain decided that since we'd already ruined it, I'd just use a castle nut to allow me to tighten it to a tightness that won't bind and that way my nuts won't fall off unexpectedly.

I have become a Copart sexpert!!. Well actually I've signed up and begun doing some research on cars they have on the lot. I hope to make my first lot dive this next week.

There's a lot to learn about how it works and the costs. I don't have the appropriate business license so I am limited to cars with a salvage title, but that's good, because there are some awesome cars out there that really get you side tracked. I hesitate to say how much time I've spent searching their web site. Unfortunately I haven't found a way to save my search so I spend a lot of time re narrowing the search down to the 2 lots near me.

As I mentioned before I'm going to try to get a whole car so that I can get not only the engine/trans but also a bunch of ancillary pieces that are needed and really run the bill up if you have to buy them separately.

Have I mentioned that my wife went deer wrestling?

One evening we came home to a very newborn baby deer right beside the driveway. It was still wet and couldn't walk yet. Now usually when this happens they are gone the next morning and we don't see them again for a week or 2, but the next morning when my wife go up and let the dogs out all hell let loose.

My wife said she was laughing so hard she almost couldn't breathe. The big dog peeked her head around the corner and Mama deer began chasing her. They went in gradually smaller circles in a size a little over about 3/4 of an acre. My wife was calling for the dog to come in and even had the front door open, but she never thought about the fact that if the deer was chasing the dog she might come into the house too.

Fortunately that didn't happen but the dog finally headed for the front porch and began cowering under a couple of chairs, but mama came after him and began "beating the snot out of her" according to my wife. So my wife decided a body block on the deer would be the proper thing to do.

Me? I'm still in bed when suddenly I hear some sort of high pitched screams so I jump out of bed and come running to find my wife on the floor and the dog bounding around showing just how happy she was to see me. That was a very confusing picture since I knew my wife wasn't capable of making the sounds I heard. Turns out it was the dog.

It also turns out on the way to the body block my wife hit the chair arm with her knee which did scare away the deer, but now she's got to have knee surgery on her other knee. (She has semi recently had a knee replacement on the other leg)

The dog? No worse for wear other than a healthy respect for mama deer. She only had one hoof make cut on her back.

So since I've tried to begin working on the car we've had 12-14 (depending upon how you count) close friends, family members or kids of close friend die, 2 knee surgeries, 1 back surgery between my wife & I and 2 Gall Bladder attacks. Now we have to add another surgery to the list.

There have also been 2 non fatal heart attacks (my son in law and then a short time later his dad), 3 grandchildren born, 2 weddings (+ one more in a couple of weeks in Denver), and probably a few other things I've forgotten. We are definitely living in "Interesting Times". We keep looking up and saying "Are we through yet?"

In any case my wife is hoping that it doesn't mean another knee replacement but rather it will be just a cartilage "adjustment"/snip like my surgery was. She's also had major back surgery.

This means more time lost to medical slavery. Because once she can't move I become her slave.

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 Post subject: Re: STALKER -ish build
PostPosted: June 24, 2018, 3:04 pm 
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I was out tinkering this morning. I've contacted Jack about getting the stuff to hook up the steering so I can push it around without one front wheel always pointing the wrong direction.

The Coleman rack appears to be placed just right, although I still will need to look at the vertical placement.

It has 3 1/2" bolts that attach it from the bottom which you can kinda see from the top shot, but it has one 3/8" boss on the front to ostensibly constrain it in that direction also. Do you see the need to add that? If so I'll just add a angle iron br@ck!t that bolts on for easy removal.

Attachment:
coleman.jpg
coleman.jpg [ 118.05 KiB | Viewed 1974 times ]


Attachment:
front bolt connector.jpg
front bolt connector.jpg [ 126.75 KiB | Viewed 1974 times ]


After looking at the shock/rocker arm connection where I made a misteak, wait where I improved their design too much by reaming the hole out to 1/2" and now I've lost some easy rotation movement, do you guys know of anything else I can do other than leaving it less tight and using a castle nut? Somehow I'm thinking I've seen something somewhere that would give me back the easy rotation, but for the life of me I can't think of what it is.

Attachment:
Top shock connection.jpg
Top shock connection.jpg [ 74.08 KiB | Viewed 1974 times ]


Attachment:
top shock.jpg
top shock.jpg [ 80.89 KiB | Viewed 1974 times ]


No one has commented on the double duty of the bottom bolt on the rear uprights. And if that's not acceptable then what would be an acceptable solution?

Attachment:
rear shock arm2.jpg
rear shock arm2.jpg [ 81.18 KiB | Viewed 1974 times ]

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