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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 25, 2016, 5:37 pm 
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Joined: November 16, 2015, 2:38 pm
Posts: 727
Location: Outside Hartford, CT
Lonnie & Geek,

Having done some cross platform and same platform different year swaps (corvette into Mercedes, turbo Subaru into non turbo Subaru a few times, EFI Toyota into carb Toyota..)

The best piece of advice, and the way I always found it to be less daunting, Is:

1. Pick the modules you want to keep.
2. Collect connector pin outs for said modules, anti theft, ECU, clockspring, whatever etc
3. Take a pair of snips, and a rainy day and start cutting wires you know you aren't going to use about 2" from the connector. double check you've got them all, then remove the sheathing on the whole harness. and start pulling the wires out one by one. you'll be shocked as to how fast it all just falls apart, and how much you lose from the first pass through.

If you're unsure about a specific wire, don't cut it. and just come back to it later.

I also recommend taping or tying off the connectors to something with some weight, so that when you tug on a certain wire trying to remove it, you don't collapse the entire harness into a giant spaghetti monster.

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Driven5 wrote:
Forced Induction + Magic Spinning Doritos = EMod


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PostPosted: March 17, 2016, 7:31 pm 
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Joined: February 9, 2016, 8:46 am
Posts: 207
Location: New Jersey
botbasher wrote:
1055 wrote:
Why can't my locost have it, but a Honda civic can!
The "grey" is that the tablet isn't actually part of the car and if removed, which it can be because MS is running the car, the car has no speedo.

I've got a better than average chance since they'll be looking at other things that I can fly past, but if they look too close, they might make the "connection" and realize it's not truly part of the car!

I'm kinda in Wright's book with strapping on a $10 electronic speedo and calling it good, but we have to do yearly inspections here in NC, so if it's a major block, then I might need something a little more permanent. I am trying to keep the dash clean, so this would fit in nicely!

Bureaucracy... You gotta love it!

KS


I think that the point you guys may be missing is that the speedometer is not really what they are interested in. It's the odometer. If they see a "permanent" odometer, I don't think they will really care what kind of speedometer is in the car, if you don't make it obvious that it is removable, more or less.

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Certified Welder, Certified Welding Inspector, Full Time Car Freak...In New Jersey no less!


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PostPosted: March 18, 2016, 8:42 am 
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Location: Outside Hartford, CT
Connecticut requires a speedometer and odometer. cant have one without the other here

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Forced Induction + Magic Spinning Doritos = EMod


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PostPosted: April 7, 2016, 5:07 pm 
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Joined: June 11, 2008, 1:31 pm
Posts: 426
Location: Denver,CO
I ordered a set for my car. I got free shipping due to a coupon on eBay. $180 for the set. I wanted them because they are supper thin and it's an all in one set so I didn't have to buy more stuff for it. The biggest challenge is mounting. I made a dash out of 18x4x.75 aluminum with 1/8 plates to make the bezel and rear cover. It looks like this is going to work well. I'll paint it black and that will complete the blackout look.

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I did all of the aluminum work with a router, skill saw and some hole saws.


Evo

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PostPosted: April 7, 2016, 6:36 pm 
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Location: Outside Hartford, CT
Wow, I've seen them in pictures, but your hand really emphasizes the scale! That seems ideal for most of us with spacial challenges. now to hunt one down for not list price...

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PostPosted: August 22, 2016, 2:17 pm 
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Joined: January 9, 2016, 8:45 pm
Posts: 52
Location: Knoxville, TN
My wife's car unlocks and energizes everything once the key fob gets within about 10 feet without the need to hit a button to unlock.

I am hoping to do something similar with mine so as long as I have the fob in my pocket I can hop in and go but no one else can just hop in and go.


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PostPosted: November 20, 2016, 1:22 pm 
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Location: Denver,CO
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Here is the final product. The bezel was cut with basic wood working tools. Only took me at better part of a year to make. I'm happy with it though.

Evo

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PostPosted: November 21, 2016, 10:43 am 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
@evo626

Does it interact with the donor ECU? The check engine light implies it interacts with something. How many of the sensors (oil pressure, temp, etc.) need to come from the panel vendor versus the ones that came stock from you donor?

That's a very clean setup by the way. Congratulations.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: November 21, 2016, 11:33 pm 
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Location: Denver,CO
Lonnie-S wrote:
@evo626

Does it interact with the donor ECU? The check engine light implies it interacts with something. How many of the sensors (oil pressure, temp, etc.) need to come from the panel vendor versus the ones that came stock from you donor?

That's a very clean setup by the way. Congratulations.

Cheers,

It comes with a speed sensor, temp and oil pressure. All of the lights I added on. I doesn't interact with ththe ecu at all.

Evo

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PostPosted: November 26, 2016, 4:35 pm 
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Joined: June 11, 2008, 1:31 pm
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Location: Denver,CO
I finally got the rpm gauge to work on this. Turns out it won't read the signal off the Nissan ecu and there isn't another signal that works from the vq30de ignition, tried everything from the crank angle sensor to using an injector pluse. I even tried a pull-up resistor with no success. I disassembled the factory tach and wired it in line with the intellitronix guage and it modified the signal and now I have a working tachometer.

I may have to do the same with the speedometer.

Evo

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