LocostUSA.com

I am working on the interior panels as I am preparing for my first auto-x in Concord, NC on July 20th. I have created the templates and I am ready to cut the Al but I was wondering if using rivnuts instead of rivets would be okay for the rear bulkhead. I was thinking of using steel M5 rivetnuts with button head screws every 8-10 inches or so. I am thinking this for 2 reasons:
1. The chassis isn't complete yet so I will need to remove the bulkhead to finish weld and paint
2. I am sure i have managed to paint myself in a corner somehow that requires access through the bulkhead but i haven't identified it yet

Your thoughts?

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

I give it the thumbs up.
I prefer removable panels and the rear bulkhead on mine was made in three pieces and they are attached with 10-32 button head allens. I just tapped the frame tube but rivnuts are easier if you've got them. The spacing doesn't need to be that close.

I had to go back to page 7 of your build log to get a clear view of your seatback tubing. The top part is well triangulated. I think you'd be OK with the rivnuts, especially if you can roll some stiffening beads in the lower half of the aluminum where there is no triangulation of the seatback tubing.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

That is a great point Lonnie! I can easily add a diagonal on each side to increase the rigidity of the frame so it doesn't rely so much on the stressed skin of the bulkhead. Thank you for the suggestion.

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Gavin

My build: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=16005

If temporary fixing, Clecos would do the job.
Semi-permanent, Rivets would be OK. Just skip any PU Adhesive or other High Performance adhesive that will make the panel VERY difficult to remove.
I don´t see the need to remove the rear bulkhead.
HTH.