LocostUSA.com

Hi everyone,

How are you guys mounting your nose cones? I was hoping to use the molded flange against the upper rail and bolt through with washers, but I'm not sure that is enough. I am going to mount the scuttle through the stanchions so that is not an issue. I also plan to rivet the side panels. My lower panel is .050 steel and I will be welding that in place. I will also use some 1/8" aluminum inside the cockpit as a floor.

Thanks!

Dzus fasteners.

Two on the sides, in the flange covered by the hood.

Two on the bottom facing the ground.

_________________
The Lethal Locost
The Lethal Locost 2 - Even More Lethalerer

Skinny G,

That works for me and probably a large percentage of builders. For the bottom pair of fasteners I used the winged stud. Just thought removing it would be a little less stressful.

YMMV

_________________
Larry in Seattle

Two Dzus fasteners on the upper side and a hinge on the bottom.

_________________
Chris White
Locost 7 type 1 power and a rear transaxle
Lotus Elise Sold
ND Club Miata
Nissan Titan Sold
Rubi Wrangler
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=13200

Same as Greg and Larry.
Paul

_________________
Parts left out cost nothing and cause no problems!!

I used one one either side near the frame top rail/ hood and one centered underneath. That one underneath the nose was difficult to access.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

I used a removable hinge joint (two pivot points) under the lower lip to allow the nosecone to flip forward, and single fasteners on each side near the aft edge to hold it down. For the fasteners I used hood pin clips hidden on the inside but Dzus fasteners on the outside would be easier.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

Think I'll be ok mounting from the bottom and the flange?

I have a set-up like seattletom, which pivots, to allow the nosecone to flip forward, and is attached with Dzus fasteners on each of the upper corners. The problem is that you can not pivot the nose down without scratching the paint on the ground 90% of the time I end up just taking to two bottom bolts off and removing the nosecone, unless I'm just adding water to the rad, then I will put a rug under the nosecone. The two bottom 3/8 pivot bolts go directly into the I.D. of the lower "LD" tube. The thinking was that if I needed to attach a tie down hook, I carry an eye in the tool bag, or wanted to flat tow, it would be easy to attach using the same bolts.
Davew

Thanks everyone for the responses.

Tom,

I noticed in your build page that your fenders don't touch the body. I thought about floating fenders similar to the front. Are your fenders unsprung weight and mounted to the knuckle? Easier to get a flush fender to tire look that way. Also, did you use a bead roller to round over the edges? I just ordered one specifically to make fenders. I'm going to make/buy a tank die when the roller comes in.

Never thought about floating the rear fenders. Interesting idea & with IRS could probably mount to the upright. Guess it depends on if you have enough wheel travel for potential tire/fender interference, for it to be worth the effort.

GTO, my rear fenders are mounted to standoffs fixed to the chassis. Guess that makes them sprung weight. Should be some detail pics of this somewhere in my build lag. They are aluminum units from Fenders 'n' More and have their standard rounded edges. I have a manual bead roller but given the thickness of the material I decided it would be better to buy them with the profile I wanted.

_________________
Cheers, Tom

My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."
Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52

I used bolted hinges under the lower lip (removable would be even better), but the rear end is just two holes in the nosecone sitting over two upward dowels on the chassis.
Makes it very easy to get at the radiator, no tools required.
Scuttle also sits on two dowels pointing upwards from chassis.

Bonnet holds both scuttle & nosecone in place, no other fasteners.
Scuttle has no wiring, just just remove bonnet & pop scuttle off frame to get to all wiring, dash, et cetera.

Quick, easy, light.

Cheers - Gavin

@gavin_eakins

That sounds nice, Gavin. Do you have any photos to post?

Cheers,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886