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PostPosted: August 26, 2015, 9:35 am 
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Location: Rome, GA
So I have a 3D Printer (i3 prusa) and I'm making a Donkervoort-esque 7. I am getting very fed up with making the chassis in 3d programs and designing the body around it so I figured I'd just print my chassis in plastic (along with the hood and scuttle) and use some modeling clay + paper for the nosecone design. Then once all is said and done I'm thinking of using a 3d scanner to scan the model, import it back into the 3d software I have and then cut out all the non-needed surfaces and divide everything into sections to cut out of pink foam and start the process of actually making the nose-cone.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Any idea why this wouldn't work?

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PostPosted: August 26, 2015, 11:35 am 
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I suppose you could do it that way, but it sounds a little convoluted just to make a nosecone buck. Is that all you're after or are you looking to get more out of it? What 3D scanner and software would you be using?

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PostPosted: August 27, 2015, 12:05 am 
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Well the reason I want to do it this way is because I can't get the shape I want in both autodesk inventor or in Google Sketchup and I'm not about to learn another program to do this. As far as the 3d scanner the school I'm going to for mechanical engineering has a new scanner this year which I'll use to scan the chassis, and the headlights (to print miniature models of them so I can make the headlight area properly.

I also want to get as close as possible to having it completely symmetrical. So theres that too.

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PostPosted: August 27, 2015, 12:40 am 
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Here is a Inventor-friendly generic nosecone... https://www.dropbox.com/s/7boxkgp38s69v ... e.dwg?dl=0

If that is too 'off base'... 3D printing, scale modeling, scanning, sectioning, buck building, and building a plug/mold could certainly get you to your goal, but I'd say you'll have a fair bit of time invested in that method.

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PostPosted: August 27, 2015, 1:58 am 
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Location: England
I am fascinated by this 3D malarkey but dont have a hope in hell of ever understanding or using one . I found an article a few years ago about a chap that was building a mold from scratch using a 3d printer , he found a company that sells cad info for most cars.

http://inhabitat.com/new-zealand-man-is ... n-replica/

Go to page three of his blog and look at the doors . http://replicadb4.com/author/Admin

bob

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PostPosted: August 27, 2015, 3:58 am 
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Thanks bob, I'll have to check that out

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PostPosted: August 27, 2015, 3:59 am 
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RTz wrote:
Here is a Inventor-friendly generic nosecone... https://www.dropbox.com/s/7boxkgp38s69v ... e.dwg?dl=0

If that is too 'off base'... 3D printing, scale modeling, scanning, sectioning, buck building, and building a plug/mold could certainly get you to your goal, but I'd say you'll have a fair bit of time invested in that method.

Yeah, too similar to book style. Appreciate it though.

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PostPosted: August 27, 2015, 2:36 pm 
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I understand the computer modeling is frustrating. So is working in the real world though. If you use Sketchup you can look at existing models and see how they did the work. There is a menu item to soften and hide edges which you can turn off or set to zero. That lets you see how they made a shape since it makes the edges visible, maybe that would help.

If you post your attempts here with SketchUp or whatever, there are folks that would likely give you a hand learning how to do it. It's much harder to learn these things without someone to watch actually doing it. Also look for YouTube videos, you have to weed thru some but you should be able to find help there. Including casting nosecones out of aluminum beer cans... :lol:

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PostPosted: August 28, 2015, 1:07 am 
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I need to learn this stuff, I feel so out of touch :BH:


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PostPosted: August 28, 2015, 11:32 am 
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I think probably the most efficient way ($ and effort) of turning a 3D model into a real body is cutting your model into slices, then having a CNC router cut them out. Build a frame to hold the slices, fill the gaps in between with styrofoam. Sand, then fibrerglass over top. Make sure to reduce the size of the buck enough to allow for the thickness of the fibreglass.

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PostPosted: August 28, 2015, 12:17 pm 
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People used to do this by making full size drawings. It's called "lofting". A design for a boat or even a Clipper Ship would be a table of numbers the designer gives the builder. That table of numbers could fit on a sheet of paper. The builder would loft those measurements onto a large floor in the wood shop and the ribs, keel and other parts would be built to those shapes and assembled outdoors...

Get a sheet of plywood with a nice sanded finish on one side and paint it with a white gloss latex. Put it on the floor or a table and use a sharpie marker to put a centerline and measurement marks on it. You draw all three views on the same board,use different colors if you like.

Curves are made with "battens", strips of wood or whatever you like that you bend into the shape you want and hold in place with "ducks". Ducks are weights with an "L" hook screwed into them that will hold the tension required to bend the battens. Using battens means you will generate "fair" curves, which are nice and smooth.

So when your plywood is ready, you generate some curves with battens on the side and top view for the centerline and waist for example and move those points onto the rib section diagram. Then you can make curves on the ribs with different battens if you want ( maybe more flexible - whatever you like ).

When you like your drawing, you make the ribs for your real world fiberglass plug from the cross section lines on your drawing. You only draw one side of the cross sections. When you make the cross sections you mark them for the "controlling edge" to be on the front or back of the ribs you make.

If you just "go at it", it's hard to make the nice curves.

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PostPosted: August 30, 2015, 1:37 pm 
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What programs are you using to make your body? I am no expert, but I was fooling around with Rhino3D and it's "Drape" feature would work well (like dropping a sheet over your object). Import your chassis, then drape over top, tuck in the edges and get the curves you want. Then slice it up, CNC router a wood buck, fill the buck with foam, shape foam, tin-foil over top, then fibreglass. Simple as that :mrgreen: Or not, but that is the path I would try.

Rhino https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xhyymny6w-Y

Cheers.

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PostPosted: August 30, 2015, 7:12 pm 
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I seem to remember someone using the slice method to produce a whole Porsche 550 spyder type body. He worked out every slice outline and the used slices of insulation board. Thought it had been shown on here somewhere. I searched but didn't find it.
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