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PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 4:53 pm 
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ngpmike wrote:
A hand formed aluminum body is indeed a thing of beauty, but not usually novice (or pocketbook, if your pay someone else to do it) friendly!


Aluminum fenders are the easiest shaping that can be done. All you need is a Lancaster shrinker, a pipe or tube to radius the edges, a rubber mallet, a plastic shaping mallet, and a 2 x4 to hammer against.

Radius edges the fender blank against the tube/pipe with the rubber mallet. Shrink the edges to form the desired radius. Smooth edges with the plastic mallet against a piece of wood. There is no stretching required; don't use a metal hammer.

See http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=1503&start=195 for the roughed out shape. About 30 minutes per fender.


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PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 5:29 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Sure, with YOUR skills!! (spectacular quality work, by the way!!) :cheers:

I'd really like to make aluminum fenders, but I can't afford new tools at this stage in my life - it's tough scraping up enough for basic materials, at the moment. I'm getting pretty good at scrounging, though!

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PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 5:57 pm 
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Harbor Freight (or your equivalent purveyor of Chinese tools) has shrinker/stretcher for $112 with coupon. http://www.harborfreight.com/metal-shrinkerstretcher-set-68897.html

Don't think you can buy custom-radius fenders much cheaper than that.


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PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 6:15 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada. eh?
True - 'course, we don't have HF up here. We can get the identical item, for $219.99 (plus shipping, etc.) from Princess Auto, although they're out of stock with no indication as to when they might get some.

I've seen these tools used, and it's astounding what they can do. Gonna have to save up my shekels, I guess!

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PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 9:16 pm 
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I actually made an aluminum fender just to see how it would turn out with a buck made from scrap wood, a ratchet strap to hold the aluminum, and a rubber mallet. I only had a 1/2" round over bit for my router, so the edge wasn't as big a radius as I did have liked, but with a 1" radius edge I think it would probably work out not too bad. I couldn't find a bigger round over, so I bought aluminum fenders instead. I probably should have looked harder for the router bit and made my own anyways.
Kristian

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PostPosted: June 21, 2016, 9:07 am 
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A set of fenders is on my to do list once the Sr20 is up and running. I still haven't decided between using the bead roller and shrinker or a wood buck with the slapper. I believe both will work quite well with just a little bit of patience.

Honestly I think the wooden buck would give more consistent results.

For now I just need to stay focused on wiring and plumbing the beast.

Keep us posted on which way you go on make vs buy

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PostPosted: June 24, 2016, 8:51 pm 
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seattletom wrote:
Ewhen wrote:
Or if you know any suckers who are willing to shed 256 $ for each fender, i will make you very rich by selling you my "gizmo" so help me Gawd.
Ewhen, thanks for posting the video. Can you share more about your "gizmo." Is it the shrinker/english wheel combo shown in the video clip or do you have additional tricks/tools to form the fenders?

I recently bought a Harbor Freight shrinker/stretcher on sale but don't have an English wheel.


Hi Tom
I've saw some of Your posts, did you write
being "old" ? Well ! I forbid you to say such
thing, for the "crown" belongs to ME as the
oldest F@rt on this forum. If I can survive
the next 4 months Iwill be 90 springs old.

My shrinker-stretcher is from Harbor too.
The Stand was done using scrap (cheap)
metal, as for English-wheel, the flat one
on top and slightly curved one on the bottom
was done by hand and attached to the Stand
with proviso to squeeze both wheels together.
Harbor also sells set of wheels, but I don't like
them cause the top wheel's surface has
"nurling" pattern and it leaves scratching
marks on aluminum.
I try to make design of the stand, despite
of being half-blind (macular degeneration)

Btw. One of my cars has flat surface fenders
and they look more pleasant to me than the
curved ones, so there's no need for En-Wheels
"De gustibus non es discutandum"

Cheers
ewhen


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PostPosted: June 24, 2016, 10:19 pm 
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seattletom wrote:
Ewhen wrote:
I recently bought a Harbor Freight shrinker/stretcher on sale but don't have an English wheel.


Hi again
My camera does not work and the "gizmo"
is covered with cobweb, so here is a fast
one.
Cheers
ewhen


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PostPosted: June 25, 2016, 12:07 am 
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But now's the time to order anything you need from England. Maybe the Caterham ones are a decent price with the devaluation of the pound.

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PostPosted: June 25, 2016, 2:21 pm 
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Ewhen wrote:
Hi Tom
I've saw some of Your posts, did you write
being "old" ? Well ! I forbid you to say such
thing, for the "crown" belongs to ME as the
oldest F@rt on this forum. If I can survive
the next 4 months Iwill be 90 springs old.

My shrinker-stretcher is from Harbor too.
The Stand was done using scrap (cheap)
metal, as for English-wheel, the flat one
on top and slightly curved one on the bottom
was done by hand and attached to the Stand
with proviso to squeeze both wheels together.
Harbor also sells set of wheels, but I don't like
them cause the top wheel's surface has
"nurling" pattern and it leaves scratching
marks on aluminum.
I try to make design of the stand, despite
of being half-blind (macular degeneration)

Btw. One of my cars has flat surface fenders
and they look more pleasant to me than the
curved ones, so there's no need for En-Wheels
"De gustibus non es discutandum"
Ewhen, the old f@rt crown is yours, and congratulations on nearing 90 years young! :cheers:

Thanks for the additional gizmo design info. And I prefer the flat top fenders too, which eliminates (for the time being) the need to buy another large tool.

What is the radius of the fender edge round-over you prefer? I have a 48" Williams Low Buck sheet metal brake purchased 15 years ago that bends with a fixed (~1/4" ) radius. I'm trying to figure how to modify it to bend a larger radius. I'm thinking I can bend up to a 3/4" radius on the fender blanks by adding an oak plank with a router cut edge as a forming die. Otherwise its slapper time and a hammer formed edge.

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PostPosted: June 26, 2016, 12:08 am 
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carguy123 wrote:
But now's the time to order anything you need from England. Maybe the Caterham ones are a decent price with the devaluation of the pound.


Excellent idea, but why not wait a little
until the Blokes go totally bankrupt, and
instead of just fenders, the complete
Caterhams will be available at Walmarts
and "1 Dollar " stores.
But how about those who build their
cars just for pleasure of creating their
owb parts ?.
I know a guy who bought a used Birkin
for 30 grands , used during 2 years abd
re-sold for the same price (why bother
building )
ewhen


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PostPosted: June 26, 2016, 12:58 am 
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[quote="seattletom"][quote="Ewhen"] Hi Tom
What is the radius of the fender edge round-over you prefer? I have a 48" Williams Low Buck sheet metal brake purchased 15 years ago that bends with a fixed (~1/4" ) radius. I'm trying to figure how to modify it to bend a larger radius.

The edges radius can be zero, it's the
shrinking process that forms a radius
which may form small bumps to be corrected
with a hammer.
If you are satisfied with flat surface fenders
all you need is just a shrinker, a small hardwood
mallet, and of course a sheet of soft utility
aluminum (not the aircraft type)
I bend the 1" edges (shrinker deepness)
squeezed between two flat bars , using a
hammer.
If you never done metal shaping, try to
work with scrap small pieces of aluminum

Here below is my very first aluminum
body built with P-47 auxilliary gas tank
(Army surplus) split for sides , using
pop rivet gun bought in 50 cenys etore.

Cheers
ewhen


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PostPosted: June 26, 2016, 11:14 am 
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Quote:
Here below is my very first aluminum
body built with P-47 auxilliary gas tank
(Army surplus) split for sides , using
pop rivet gun bought in 50 cenys etore.
Very cool Ewhen! Looks like a similar assembly concept to Jack's Lalo. Start with nicely curved side panels and connect them with relatively flat panels. Alas, in 2016, used P-47 tanks are no longer economically feasible. :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: June 27, 2016, 12:23 am 
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[/quote] Very cool Ewhen! Looks like a similar assembly concept to Jack's Lalo. Start with nicely curved side panels and connect them with relatively flat panels. Alas, in 2016, used P-47 tanks are no longer economically feasible. :mrgreen:[/quote]

Thanks Chuck.
The year was 1962 and goodies from Army
Surplus were not expensive, I recognized
fuel tank because during 2-nd WW I was in
Germany's forced labor camp.
It was fantastic view to see B-17 bombers
accompanied by P-47 Fighters who ejected
empty auxiliary tanks on German Soil.
I am grateful to America for my liberation,
After I served 2 years as armed guard by
protecting US supplies Depots and Airfields.

cheers
ewhen (the one without the helmet)


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PostPosted: June 27, 2016, 11:49 am 
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Ewhen, thanks for sharing your history and the background on your very nice P-47 based build. Wow, that's quite a story. Glad you are still here to tell it.

And amazing what you could buy from the surplus stores in the post-war years. If one didn't mind green paint and camo colors there was a lot of neat stuff available.

I'm looking forward to my attempt on fender forming following your instructions. :cheers:

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My Car9 build: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14613
"It's the construction of the car-the sheer lunacy and joy of making diverse parts come together and work as one-that counts."

Ultima Spyder, Northstar 4.0, Porsche G50/52


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