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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: September 9, 2016, 11:32 pm 
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Well I thought I'd start a separate build thread for this instead of adding this to my L.S.O. build. This will be a layman's account of how to build a simple convertible top with basic knowledge gained from watching many, many videos from the net, and a picture in my fuzzy mind. This top will be built more along the marine style tops that I have had on my boats.

During my L.S.O. build I had decided that in order for Wifey and I to enjoy the 7 in Sunny Alberta's ever changing weather environment, I should look at adding a convertible top to the build. Having made that decision I had fabricated the windshield stanchions from 1/4" material to be able to handle the strain of a convertible top in tension. I also welded on 1/4" posts on top of the stanchions to hold a headboard ( hey if it was good enough for Henry Ford, it's good enough for me).
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I then ran across an industrial sewing machine during the build that would do the trick for sewing the top. Add that to the list of Locost tools.
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Once the L.S.O. build was completed, wifey and drove it for a year. We then decided it would be great to get a motorhome and car trailer to travel the world with our 7. This led me to construct a tonneau cokpit cover for the 7 so that the interior would stay dry while trailering the car. This gave me my first introduction to sewing. Watching lots of video's on the net, made some mistakes, learnt a bunch, but overall was happy with the results.
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Then during on of our trips, we realised that if we ran into a hail storm the bonnet would be toast, so I sewed up a padded "hail guard" for the bonnet.
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So now I am at the point where I feel confident that I should be able to construct a convertible top for the 7 with a few simple goals.
1 - Simple construction
2 - Pleasing to the eye
3 - Quick (and easy) to deploy
4 - Fold up storage on the car

With all this in mind, this is not a top we expect to travel 100 miles in heavy rain, but something that will keep us dry in the event of unexpected rain to get us back to the campsite or hotel.

I will post as many pics as I can, so on with the build!


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Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 12:03 am 
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Headboard project.
Sourced out some oak boards, made pattern, made sawdust, added some epoxy and clamps.
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Test fit headboard on windshield frame.
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Fabbed up some aluminum blocks to fit over the 1/4" stanchion posts. Drilled and treaded for SS wing nuts. Drilled holes for attachment to headboard. Final shaped and sanded headboard. Spray varnished the headboard.
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I decided to go this route (headboard) after looking at several hot rod tops. I also believe this will be simpler to put on or take off when using the top. This will also put less stress on the 1/8" windshield frame, in my opinion.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 12:19 am 
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Making the bows.

I fabbed the bows from 3/4" tube because that's what I had at hand. I decided to bring the sides of the bows in a bit halfway the side height for a couple of reasons - (1) it doesn't look so boxy and square, (2) the vinyl should tension to the sides better, (3) I think it looks sexier.
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Fabbed the main bow br@cketz (that's for you JD) from .065" steel, the main bow is also curved to follow the side arch of the car body. Attached to body with Rivnuts and AN hardware.
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Fabbed the 2nd bow br@cketz. They will be attached using SS pop rivets. Both bows match when folded.
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When folded the bows fit within the lines of the car.
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Perry

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"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 12:31 am 
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In my mind I want the vinyl fabric to tension when the 2nd bow is set in place. This is because the 2nd bow will be higher in place than when folded. In order to keep the 2nd bow in place I fabbed up some over center locking spreader br@ckets/arms. The arms fold when in storage, open and over center to lock open. This can all be done while sitting in the cockpit in the drivers seat.
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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 12:46 am 
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The 2nd bow is kept in place by being attached to the main bow via the over center arms. In my mind the main bow is going to be kept in place by 1" nylon webbing that is attached to the headboard and the rear of the car. I decided to use double snaps, instead of sewing, on the fore and aft main bow webbing so that it's removable if needed. It will be attached along with the vinyl fabric with snaps to the headboard and rear of car.
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When the 2nd bow is folded, the webbing is slack.
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When the 2nd bow is deployed the webbing is in tension, my fuzzy mind theory works. This should also apply to the vinyl fabric.
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I received my material today for the top. The next step will be making patterns.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 9:36 am 
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Perry, great project and amazing workmanship. I cannot wait to the the finished results.

Graham


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 2:03 pm 
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Following this with great interest. Been thinking of making a top for some time now.

Like the head board design. I think that is the most challenging aspect of the top design. Except for the sewing.

Cheers

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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 10:59 pm 
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Thanks guys. Remember this is by no means a professional piece of work, but like the words I live by - "No one ever told me I couldn't do it."

So on to patterning.

I used filament tape over all the bows, and where I had to deviate from the bows to achieve my pattern. The reason for the filament tape is that it serves the base for the 2 sided basting tape. Do not put basting tape directly on the bows or the body, you'll spend the rest of the year trying to remove it. The filament tape peels right off.
I know JD may argue that blue construction tape is superior, but for light work like this filament tape's the best. :lol:
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When deviating from the bows I used 3 pieces of gas welding wire to add some rigidity to the filament tape.
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I also use construction paper for some of the complex pattern.
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Once all the filament tape is in place and I was happy with the pattern I started applying the 2 sided basting tape working from the rear forward (does that make sense?, that's like "go ahead, back up" or "hurry up, slow down")
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Then I measured and cut the template plastic patterning material. This stuff is real nice to work with, it's like poly but reinforced with fiberglass strands so that when you pull on it, it doesn't distort.
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IMG_0663.JPG


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 10, 2016, 11:33 pm 
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Patterning the convertible top continued.

Now the fun begins. Marked center on the pattern material and applied it to the rear bow/rear body. Lift off the basting tape to adjust, get it as wrinckle free as possible. Once satisfied I took a sharpie and traced the pattern on the bow centers, the filament tape where it deviates from the bows, and 1" below the snaps on the rear of the body. Marked up center points, bolt heads, and alignment points.
Attachment:
IMG_0665.JPG


Once done the rear pattern I applied basting tape over the rear bow/pattern material so the intermediate pattern will stick to it. Measured and cut the pattern material, applied to car, lifted and adjusted, trimmed, once satisfied with the fit took a sharpie and traced over the first sharpie line on the rear bow and marked up the rest of the pattern like the first.
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Once done the intermediate pattern I applied basting tape to the second bow so the front pattern will stick to it. Applied basting tape to the headboard and wherever needed to achieve the pattern.
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Lastly I applied basting tape over the front pattern on the headboard and made the headboard pattern.
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I mentioned earlier that I was making this along the lines of my boat convertible tops. That being said the car will not have doors but will have clear vinyl side curtains. I will be using zipper and hook and loop to attach the side curtains.

Here's the link to the Sailrite video that I must have watched 20 times. Scroll down to the bottom of the page to get to the video.
http://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Make-a-Replacement-Powerboat-Bimini-Video


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 11, 2016, 8:19 am 
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Outstanding work Perry! And great tutorial too. I can't wait to see the end result.

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PostPosted: September 12, 2016, 3:57 pm 
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Just saw this, Perry. I've been thinking about doing something like this, but nowhere near as fancy. Following with great interest.


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PostPosted: September 12, 2016, 6:30 pm 
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It has to be said... now open the side and try to get in, and then out...

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PostPosted: September 12, 2016, 8:56 pm 
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KB58 wrote:
It has to be said... now open the side and try to get in, and then out...
And that is the exact reason I went with the flip hard-top. :) I am too old to be a contortionist. And I didn't want to subject my passengers to doing so either.

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Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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PostPosted: September 13, 2016, 2:10 am 
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Yes I did exactly that, opened the sides and got in and out with the top in place. I don't have to break in 1/2 to do it, and I'm also designing this so that the top can be pulled over your head, the headboard secured, and the intermediate bow locked in place to tension the top. The side curtains will have a top zipper, the fore side will hook and loop inside the top side and the aft side of the curtain will hook and look to the outside of the top side material.

Transferring the patterns:
So I removed all the patterns from the car, cleaned up the pattern lines and gave them the required seam allowance and perimeter allowances them cut them to size.
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Started off with a simple project, the headboard pattern, transferred to vinyl, added some facing tape to refer it for the snaps, took it to the sewing table and committed fabrication.
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Next was figuring out the rear window placement. Transferred the pattern to vinyl, discussed with wifey window shape, cut pattern and decided on location.
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Then I cut out some oval binding from vinyl, used some seamstick and basted it to the window. Then flipped the window, applied more seamstick and basted the window to the pattern. The seamstick serves two purposes, (1) holds things in place for sewing, (2) provides a waterproof seam.
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Then I sewed the outside edge of the window to the pattern, flipped the pattern over and cut out the vinyl to expose the window. This leaves a raw edge around the inside perimeter of the window vinyl. This is cleaned up by pulling up the vinyl from the previously placed seamstack and tucking the raw edge in around the window. Once done the inside edge is sewn.
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Clamped the vinyl section to the frame to give my fuzzy brain a picture of what it looks like.
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IMG_0686.JPG


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: September 13, 2016, 8:27 am 
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Wow, Perry, that is some amazing work! Looks like a professional job to me... Great write-up too. Nicely done, all of it.

I do have a couple of questions.
"Basting" sounds like it has something to do with Bar B Cue. So where's the meat?
Did you really mark the plastic with a sharpie? Where did you find it? Are you sure it's yours? Did it have any sand or sea shells on it?

I do think you should have used blue painter's tape, but you seemed to get by with that stuff you had. :mrgreen:

I appreciate you not using "That Word" in your commentary.

Lastly, one more question: Are you wearing a chicken suit? :rofl:

:cheers:
JDK

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