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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 04, 2010 9:07 pm 
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Jack,

I would potentially be interested in a set of these body panels, they would sure fit the subaru engine I'd like to use allot better than a seven body. However I'm not artistic enough to visualize what this is all going to look like when put together, so I eagerly await your updates.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 05, 2010 9:12 pm 
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Glen wrote:
...I'm not artistic enough to visualize what this is all going to look like when put together...

Me either, Glen, so don't feel like the Lone Ranger! I've had enough positive comment here that I'm making everything reproducible, and I'm making it sufficiently Lego-like that if somebody likes this part but doesn't like that part, things can be swapped here and there.

Pontoon pix soon, and a bit of side impact structure under the skin.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 18, 2010 12:36 pm 
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I didn't get back to read the replies to my interest in the hood bubble. Thanks, Jack and to the other suggestion(s)


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 7:35 am 
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Quote:
Curtis Unlimited has Lola Mk 1 molds so that's my starting point.


Jack, as you pointed out, there may not be a huge market for parts. There is already one established seller. What would be much more useful, IMHO, would be a manual or set of instructions on how to install this type of body on a chassis, particularly on a completed car.

The instructions would be about at the amount of detail in "THE BOOK" - enough to give the general idea, but still leave a bit to the imagination of the individual builder. It could also include addresses of part suppliers, etc.

Just a thought...


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 12:55 am 
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Hoo boy, Tailwind, that would be quite a project.

I'll admit I'm wishing (tonight, at least) that I'd started with a clean slate but maybe this winter I'll do a body from scratch. This one is interesting enough, though.

I'll be a better adviser once I'm done with this.

I've bailed on the removable hood--it just got to be too dang much work--so I'm making the nose one piece. It's not hinged, it'll pull off the front of the chassis and rest by the car when checking oil, thus allowing some kid in a Ram Truck to back over it.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:16 am 
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I guess this is still sort of "exterior" but maybe I should post it in <Building your own frame>?

In interests of keeping sideswipers out of the cockpit, I've built a tube structure underneath the pontoon skins. It adds about 18 pounds to the car (for both sides).


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SideBumper.jpg [ 45.66 KiB | Viewed 2705 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:33 am 
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JackMcCornack wrote:
In interests of keeping sideswipers out of the cockpit, I've built a tube structure underneath the pontoon skins. It adds about 18 pounds to the car (for both sides).
Velly interesting.
Will the bungee support come in red? :)

With a little scheming you could probably provide a little storage space inside the extra framework. Access through openings in front of the seats in the interior vertical panels.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:01 pm 
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Well that's most of what you need for a stiff cockpit. It's too bad that upper frame rail doesn't continue back and serve as the mounting point for the suspension and shock... That's most of what I see as wrong with the current seven frames.

I'm glad we'll have some more body options soon.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 3:42 pm 
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That'll be a great place for CUPHOLDERS! Make it big enough to fit a Big Gulp or a Sonic Route 44!

You probably could also fit a pop up lighted mirror for women to be able to touch up their make up just before they cross the finish line and get their pictures taken!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 3:17 pm 
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You know what's been the biggest hassle on this project so far? The rear fenders. Back when the British panel beaters were king of the hill, symmetry wasn't a really big issue on race cars, particularly when one side had a head fairing to draw the eye. But I'm joining the fenders in the middle with a simple curved aluminum sheet, and when you throw in the fact that I'm fitting doors on the car, well, I just hope nobody looks at both sides of the car at once.

PS: Doors. Grr. Don't get me started on doors.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2010 4:14 pm 
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Yo, Jack-
If you've got that puppy spinning so fast that somebody can see both sides at once, symmetry probably ain't your biggest worry... Armco, yes, symmetry, no...

JD "Hell, my moustache ain't symmetrical" Kemp


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2010 8:43 am 
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Jack, I like where you're going with the body work. Should be a big improvement in aero and it looks great! More pics!

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 11:58 am 
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So here's where the body stood Monday afternoon, before it started raining and I had to put it away, I'm just a trim and finish away from done.

Since this particular car is being built for fuel economy, I mounted the rear fenders a bit lower than aesthetics would dictate. Problem is, the front fenders have to be pretty high to deal with street car turning radius and suspension (I took out the springs and checked full jounce and full lock) but the rears do not. If I had this to do over again I'd probably have the doors taper down in the back, so there could be a rise up to the rear fenders.

The fairings between the doors and fenders were first roughed out with canned spray-on insulation foam, using clear packaging tape to keep it from sticking to the doors (most everybody who works with composites has bonded two parts together by accident—I've already had that experience so I was careful not to glue the door shut). I squirted the foam into the gap and gave it 24 hours to firm up, while every spectator pointed out that it looked pretty horrible and wondered if I'd really thought this through. But once it was firm, I carved it to shape, sanded it smooth, covered it with fiberglass, and filled in the flaws with automotive body putty. That's the stage of completion in the photo at the top.

Then so I could see the dips and bumps better, I gave it a coat of white primer. The white doesn't quite match (hey, it's a primer) but I think a coat of gloss white would put me well on my way to a 50/50 paint job (a car that looks decent from 50 feet away at 50 miles an hour).


Attachments:
MU58a.jpg
MU58a.jpg [ 26.35 KiB | Viewed 1856 times ]
MU58b.jpg
MU58b.jpg [ 10.7 KiB | Viewed 1857 times ]
RearFender2.jpg
RearFender2.jpg [ 8.99 KiB | Viewed 1856 times ]
MU58c.jpg
MU58c.jpg [ 13.75 KiB | Viewed 1856 times ]

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 1:13 pm 
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Yo Jack!
Some folks I race with used the spray foam stuff to make fender flares on a Mustang. Like you, they said it looked like hell at first, but with sanding and sculpting, it worked out fine. I didn't see the "looks like hell" stage, but the final product looked good!

You Lalo body is comin' along just fine, and yep, you're about one good paint job away from 50/50, but I'm bettin' you're going for a better fit n finish than that. Keep up the good work, Sir!

JDK


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 1:54 pm 
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as i was reading i was thinking "yea sounds good to me" then i saw the first pic, :rofl: and thought, "that looks like a tube of refrigerator biscuits that exploded in the freezer!" nonetheless the finished results look great! :thmbsup:


JackMcCornack wrote:
So here's where the body stood Monday afternoon, before it started raining and I had to put it away, I'm just a trim and finish away from done.

Since this particular car is being built for fuel economy, I mounted the rear fenders a bit lower than aesthetics would dictate. Problem is, the front fenders have to be pretty high to deal with street car turning radius and suspension (I took out the springs and checked full jounce and full lock) but the rears do not. If I had this to do over again I'd probably have the doors taper down in the back, so there could be a rise up to the rear fenders.

The fairings between the doors and fenders were first roughed out with canned spray-on insulation foam, using clear packaging tape to keep it from sticking to the doors (most everybody who works with composites has bonded two parts together by accident—I've already had that experience so I was careful not to glue the door shut). I squirted the foam into the gap and gave it 24 hours to firm up, while every spectator pointed out that it looked pretty horrible and wondered if I'd really thought this through. But once it was firm, I carved it to shape, sanded it smooth, covered it with fiberglass, and filled in the flaws with automotive body putty. That's the stage of completion in the photo at the top.

Then so I could see the dips and bumps better, I gave it a coat of white primer. The white doesn't quite match (hey, it's a primer) but I think a coat of gloss white would put me well on my way to a 50/50 paint job (a car that looks decent from 50 feet away at 50 miles an hour).

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