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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2013 9:04 pm 
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Location: Cumming, Ga
I'm interested in knowing if anyone has tried VHT Chassis spray paint?

I bought a can to test with and sprayed a test piece and it seems pretty durable once cured. Anybody got a knowledge of this stuff?

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 12:07 pm 
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Been using VHT paint all my life, good quality and good results.

BTW, VHT started out as an engine paint; VHT = very high temp.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 2:32 pm 
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Sounds like good stuff. So, two questions:

How many rattle cans should one buy to paint the "typical" Locost frame with roll cage?

Does recoating an area to repair a miss, blem, mod or repair take any special prep on the previously painted area? Does the paint repair blend well with the old paint?

Maybe that was three questions...

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2013 6:18 pm 
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So im sold, i was just doing some tests to see what happens when i grind it back and repaint. With a flap disc it took a decent amount of effort to get the paint off. After curing it seems to be pretty tuff stuff.

I think it will be between 5 and 10 cans depending on the coats and amount of stuff. Since autozone and advanced sell the stuff. Just buy a bunch and return the unused cans. The directions on the can say to do all your coats within one hour, and wait 7 days before doing additional coats, so get what you need on hand. Cost is around 8 dollars per can, so around $80 for a whole chassis.

As for blending, it looks like if you dont overdue the paint coverage, it blends pretty nicely. This is using satin black btw, gloss might be better. Overwise the new coat might be a bit glossier, ill let you know in another day once the new coat has cured.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 04, 2014 10:06 pm 
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Location: Portland, OR
I've had very good success with VHT rollbar & chassis paint. I started using it with my previous car, had great luck and I've used it on my locost frame extensively.

best price I found on it was at napa - I bought a 6 pack and I believe by the time I was done redoing a few parts on my chassis it was about 3 or 3.5 cans of aerosol to do my frame.

With a few retouches here and there I'm down to about 2 cans left of the 6 original.

probably my favorite part of the paint - aside from how durable it is... Is how easily and cleanly it welds through. It also re-applies over a still warm weld spot easily without flaking off.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 3:10 am 
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Location: Newberg, Oregon
I used VHT chassis paint on my 1979 CJ-5 frame. Two cans of primer, 3 cans of the chassis paint which was enough for two coats. So far I'm very happy with it and haven't had any issues with flaking, seems to have bonded quite well. I'll probably end up using it again for my 7 frame once I'm done welding. I'd recommend it as well.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:41 am 
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I have been using the roll bar/chassis paint in satin for years. While I did not use it on my frame I did use it on my roll bar with great results. I have used it paint trim pieces and wiper stalks for years and never had a bad experience. I always have a can or two around the house for misc jobs. One item to note follow the instructions carefully (especially the flash and drying times) or it will not cover correctly. With that being said follow the instructions and it is a great durable product.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:06 pm 
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Has anybody here done a comparison of this against "Appliance Epoxy" before? I have heard good things about using that on frames as well...And if you're ok with white, it's even available in quarts as well.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 6:29 pm 
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I used Appliance Epoxy on my radiator in my bathroom figuring it would be good next to the toilet, durable, waterproof. It did not hold up. When I looked at the can again for some other use, it turns out that is is for indoor use only, and is washable, but only moisture resistant. This may not apply to all Appliance Epoxy's, so read your labels carefully.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 6:40 pm 
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Did the label say you should aim better?? :twisted:

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:02 pm 
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Is the VHT available in 'brush-on' format? Rattle cans seem to waste a lot of paint on something as porous as a space frame.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 11:51 am 
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ngpmike wrote:
Is the VHT available in 'brush-on' format? Rattle cans seem to waste a lot of paint on something as porous as a space frame.


I don't believe they do. You do waste a lot of it, but I believe you still come out ahead of something like POR. The upside are way better though. surface prep is minimal. I just wiped the chassis with acetone or brake cleaner. Then spray it on. If I have to weld on a painted area. I grind it off do the weld and respray. The only real downside is you have overspray to contend with, but a piece of cardboard and a running shop-vac pretty much solves this.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 1:26 pm 
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Quote:
Did the label say you should aim better?? :twisted:


The kids were younger then . . .
It also failed below the towel rack, so (hopefully) just water there. Point was to check that the brand being considered was actually exterior and waterproof.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 6:29 pm 
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I thought I'd resurrect this thread, since the question pops up all the time, and I did use it for reference..
I had first planned to use Tremclad (Rustoleum) for the frame and VHT Chassis paint for the roll cage. But I had a change of heart, and did it all in VHT.
First off, it is great paint, and the finish is superb. I did follow the instructions carefully, and waited a few days for the second coat. There is no way to avoid that, because with all my tabs and brackets, some spot will get blanketed and missed. The paint touches up beautifully, and blends very nicely.
Now for the bad. So none of the paint's fault, it was a bear of a job. :BH: I did not help my case by having to paint the steel rear firewall (that sucked up 3 cans for both sides), and having a welded roll cage and scuttle. Crawling in overspray, on your back and painting from the inside out. Not fun. Even with the rotisserie, it was brutal. One thing I noticed with the VHT paint, is that the can needs to be held very vertical, more so than other cans I've used. If it is inclined just a bit, the paint will immediately turn into dry overspray.
Total time with prep, about 16 hours. I did use metal prep, and sanded the whole frame. It took 15 cans, at $ 14 each, not quite a cheap paintjob, but I'm happy with the result.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2015 6:36 pm 
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Where were you getting the paint from? It's only $8 a can here. Guessing its a lot more in BC for some weird reason. The ability to touch up is really nice. My only real problem with it was sometime a fresh can would spray a bit glossier initially. I've also found that a black chassis get pretty hot when sitting in the sun.

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